If you have ever built an outdoor shed, you know when you get a roof over your head, it almost feels like you are finished. However, when it is time to install shingles, you need to keep your focus so you can finish the shed on time. I know you can see the light at the end of the tunnel because you have four walls and a roof in place, but if you want everything you stay dry inside, pay attention to the details of laying shingles.
There is a standard process of overlapping each one so that they work with the pitched roof to move water off of your roof line and keep it from damaging your wood structure below.
Each shingle is 36 inches long and 12 inches wide. At the lower end are three tabs coated with a layer of pieces of gravel and stone. Just above the tabs are rows of black tar sealant which when heated will soften to bind the layers of shingles together so they do not flap upward during high winds.
Shingling begins with a starter row at the bottom of the roof line, then that line is covered with another row on top of it.
Why cover the starter row?
Between the tabs is a space about 3/8 of an inch wide. If it weren’t for the start strip, water would flow down through these gaps and onto the tar paper below on the roof sheathing, typically Oriented Strand Board (OSB).
Most professional roofers recommend that you cut off the tabs on the starter strip and throw them away. Put the rest of the shingles on with the cut edge overlapping the eaves and gutter apron if you installed them on your shed. Dividing the shingles in half brings the self-sealing adhesive closer to the lower edge of the roof so when you put the first course over the starter strip, the adhesive will help seal the lower edge of the roof.
To begin installing shingles on your storage shed, you will need several batches of shingles which usually come in batches of 20. A normal sized shed will take about four, maybe five of these batches. They are heavy so be careful when picking each one up.
Also, pick up some roofing nails, asphalt roofing cement and a roll of felt paper to lay down before beginning.
The following step-by-step process assumes that you have already rolled felt paper on the roof before beginning any shingling. The tar paper will help protect against any moisture should any get through but it also provides more resistance to hold nails in place when nailing through the shingles into the OSB on the roof.
After the 6th course, you will not cut any length off the 7th course shingle. Once you have made it to the peak of the roof, return to the lower edge of the roofline.
Put a full length shingle next to the first course shingle and nail it in place. Repeat the process as before working your way up the roof nailing a single full length single next to each one already in place.
After you complete the 6th course, nail a full length shingle in place to start the 7th course (if necessary. Measure and snap a chalk line at the 7th course to make sure the row is straight.
When I built my 10 x 10 shed, I believe I ended up with 11 courses of shingles up to the peak of the roof. A typical 8 x 8 shed will probably only have eight or nine courses, but you can use that to estimate how many bags/boxes of shingles you will need.
As I said, they come in batches of 20 and they are 36 inches long and heavy so be careful when picking them up. Also, if you do buy more than you think you will need, only open the packages as you need them so you can return the unopened batches.
Building a shed roof is not difficult. Obviously you want to complete a roof on a shed in one day in case it rains, and this type of project can definitely be done in that time. But if you cannot get it finished, just put a blue tarp over the unfinished part and weight it down with some shingle packs to hold it in place.
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