Growing flowering bulbs indoors provides some color anytime during the year.

Though spring is a few weeks away, parts of the country are still within winterís grasp. Gardeners can look at this time with glass half full or empty eyes. Though seed and plant catalogs help to endure this pre-season period, I also find that getting things to grow alleviates the gardenerís itch of planting outdoors too soon. Besides getting some starts underway, Iím referring to forcing bulbs indoors. ìForcingî sounds like garden bullying, but really it is just imposing artificial conditions upon various bulbs that do well indoors to provide some winter or indoor color inside the home. Which bulbs to use and how to force them? Fortunately, the selection is pretty varied and the process is easy with a little advanced planning. To start with, there are two main types of bulbs ñ those that require chilling and ones that donít. The ones that donít need an extended cool period to initiate blooming are generally native to warmer climates. Amaryllis and paper whites are two of the most commonly grown indoor blooming bulbs. Although most folks think of the red Amaryllis given as a Christmas gift, there are unique varieties that produce red, white, pink or peach colored blossoms and different looking flowers. These bulbs take about 6-8 weeks after planting before they bloom. Bulbs that need a longer cooling period may take between 12-16 weeks. One factor here is where the potted bulbs will be stored, so space and keeping the soil moist are two considerations. Because of that, Iíd choose the bulbs that donít require cooling. Paperwhites, a type of narcissus, are often planted together so that the cluster forms a bouquet of flowers. These take about 3-5 weeks after planting to bloom; plus they may be planted with other bulbs to produce an extended flowering period. Paper whites started around Thanksgiving should be blooming by Christmas. Bulbs that require a chilling period include tulips, crocus, daffodils and hyacinths. Some varieties of these types do better with the forcing process than others, so be aware of the varieties you are planting. The large-flowered varieties of crocus do well, as do the majority of hyacinths. Tulips and daffodils are a little pickier, but there are plenty of types that should satisfy any gardener. For tulips, the Apricot Beauty, Blue Eyes, White Dream, Salmon Pearl and many of the Emperor colors are recommended. For daffodils, consider Once the selection of bulbs is completed, select a container in which to grow the bulbs. The container needs to hold water and may be a glass vase, champagne flute, metal container or sealed flower pot or anything else that strikes your fancy. Obviously, a champagne flute will hold one bulb, but a larger container may house many. Most containers will need some type of substrate in the bottom. This can be small rocks, pea gravel, beach glass, sand, glass rocks or a soil layer depending upon whether the bulbs will be transplanted outdoors or allowed to go dormant in the pots. Bulbs that sit in a glass might not need any pea gravel layer as the narrow neck keeps the bulb from sitting in water. Once youíve added the material to your container, place the bulbs on top of the layer with the tip pointing upwards. Donít laugh, sometimes folks place the bulbs upside down in the container and canít figure out why their bulbs arenít growing. Fill the container with water to the point that the bottom of the bulbs are slightly in the water. As the bulb sprouts, the roots will grow into the water. If the stems are growing too quickly and are tending to droop, mix rubbing alcohol and water in a 1:10 parts ratio and use this mix to replace the existing water in the container to slow the growth. Placing the wetted containers in a refrigerator or any cool location that stays between 35 and 50∞F for several weeks will simulate a winter condition. When the containers are removed and placed in a sunny window, the hyacinth or paper white bulbs are fooled to ìthinkî spring and start to grow. Amaryllis bulbs will go into a soil mixt ure or one that has equal parts potting soil, sphagnum peat moss and perlite. These containers will need a drainage hole, and since the bulbs have enough stored energy to sprout and flower, they donít need fertilizing. Place the bulb so that any roots are in the soil and keep at least 1/3 of the bulb above the soil. Water thoroughly, then maybe once a week until the leaves start to sprout. Increase the watering at this point to several times a week. Of course, other plantings with the bulbs may enhance their beauty and add a different look than just a bulb in a pot. Donít press the bulbs deep into the soil; they like some loose soil. Determining when to start bulbs depends upon your anticipated flowering date, then counting backwards depending upon the type of bulb to be started. Of course, starting the bulbs anytime during the year also works. This keeps a parade of indoor blooms marching through the year, even when the gardening season outside is good.