Almost everyone who grows daylilies and irises for any period of time eventually tries their hand at hybridizing, one of the most fascinating phases of gardening. Most gardeners, especially those sowing seeds for the first time, have a tendency to sow too thickly. Properly handled seeds of daylilies and irises will germinate almost 100 percent.

They should be spaced so that the seedlings will have room to grow. One seed every inch of row certainly is thick enough; early the following spring the seedlings should be lifted and transplanted to the growing beds. Seedlings grown too close together become spindly and weak, require an additional year to bloom and may never develop into strong, sturdy plants. It is far better to grow just a few seedlings and give them proper care than to grow many hundreds and neglect them.

In many cases germination is slow because the seed is not planted deep enough and dries out. Covering the seed with a 1/2 inch of equal parts of sand and garden soil is not too much; the bed should be covered with burlap to retain moisture until germination begins.

Chrysanthemums

Keep a watchful eye on the chrysanthemums which you expect will bloom in the fall. If the power leaves are yellowing, inspect the undersides for aphids and rust. Any good insecticide will check the aphids, but I especially like natural Neem oil or the old standby malathion. To control rust and leaf spot apply a preparation containing captan. Feed chrysanthemums (dahlias also will profit) frequently enough to keep them in continuous healthy growth; a little food every four to six weeks is sufficient.

Combating Mildew, Mites and Rust

This is the season when mildew shows up on a number of plants, especially the crape-myrtles, climbing roses and zinnias; and if there are occasional showers, mildew is worse than usual. Sulfur, the old remedy, will burn the foliage during extremely hot weather. Ask at your local garden center for one of the new preparations formulated especially for mildew.

If the weather is hot and dry, your azaleas, boxwood and conifers may be attacked by spider mites and if spring comes beware of those springtails bugs that can attack your plants. As a remedy use one of the reliable miticides available at your local nursery or garden center store.

Dig up the hollyhock plants that are infected with rust and destroy them. Then plant seed this month for new stock for next spring's bloom.

Planting Bulbs

Billbergias, colchicums, various irises, sprekelias and zephyrlilies (zephyranthes) can be planted during the month of August.

Sowing annuals

It is not too late to make another planting of summer annuals for late fall bloom. The plants will not grow as large as those started in the spring and beware of springtails bugs, but they should give a good crop of bloom before the frost gets them.

Starting Pansies and English Daisies

Many Southern gardeners sow English daisies and pansies in late August or early September in order to have strong plants for late winter bloom. These early plantings should give you some bloom for the Christmas holiday season. If you have not tried them before, grow some of the solid colored pansies instead of those with bicolored blooms. Yellow and orange flowered pansies and those of blue and purple make a striking combination. You had better locate your bed in a partially shaded spot unless you can provide protection from sun.