Botanical Name: Hyacinthus orientalis hybrids
You can find hyacinth flowers in florist shops mid-winter. More enjoyable to force bulbs yourself and watch them grow—and it's so easy.
Each bulb produces a thick flower stem carrying dozens of small, waxy flowers. Hyacinth is highly fragrant in stunning shades of blue, violet-blue, red, orange, pink, yellow, white. Narrow, upright leaves surround stems.
Naturally spring-flowering, hyacinth bulbs are easy to force into mid-winter bloom. Forcing tricks bulbs into behaving as if they've had a cold winter, then brought into warmth and sun as if spring.
Hyacinth bulbs need a cold treatment for 12 weeks to bloom. If you bought pre-chilled bulbs, skip this step.
Start cold process anytime in fall. October is good for mid-winter blooms. If many bulbs, plant a few at a time, keeping the rest cold until ready—you'll have pots (or vases) in bloom throughout winter and early spring.
Hourglass-shaped hyacinth vases hold the bulb while growing.
Keep vase bottom filled with water, but don't let bulb sit in water—it will rot.
Still needs chilling as above. Keep bulbs in paper sack during cold treatment. When sprouting, bring out and place in vases. Set vases in bright, cool location.
Origin: Turkey
Height: 8–12 in (20–30 cm). Flower heads get heavy—may need staking.
Light: Dark during cold treatment (cover pot if needed). After shoots appear, move to bright light as directed.
Water: Keep soil evenly moist
Humidity: Average room humidity
Temperature: Cool, 45–65°F (7–18°C)
Soil: Any good potting mix. Hyacinths can also be grown in water.
Fertilizer: Not necessary
Propagation: Forced hyacinth bulbs won't bloom a second time indoors. They produce offsets for outdoor planting. If keeping, allow foliage to die back naturally, cut back. Store offset bulbs cool and dry. Plant in garden in fall.
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