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Fertilizer?


Question
Hello and thank you in advance. I live in San Antonio TX and would like to ask you for an annual safe program for my Bermuda grass. I want to avoid Scotts and have a beautiful lawn.

Thanks

Answer
San Antonio is the center of the Bermudagrass Universe.  With triple digit temps much of the Summer, you NEED a Grass that takes off when it hits 100 degrees -- and Bermudagrass LOVES to fry and sizzle.  Someone knew what they were doing when they picked Bermuda for your Lawn.  That's important.  Keep the Bermuda.

As you may have read, growing Grass in the 21st century is not like it used to be.  These are new rules.  New information.  The most important things you can do don't focus on your Grass.  They focus on your SOIL.  Because THAT is where your Grass grows.  And if you have great Soil, you can grow great Grass.

This is a stark contrast, however, to the old rule that you had to FEED your Grass all the time to keep it healthy and wealthy.  State of the art Grass in the 'old days' depended on N-P-K numbers on your bgas of fertilizer.  The problem with that is, chemical fertilizers burn your Soil and the things that live in it.  Earth-friendliness aside, no Soil can be good for your Grass if it has chemical fertilizers in it.

You can see how most people might have trouble understanding this.  They have been watching those commercials on TV for most of their lives.  There's nothing about how to make your Soil good for the Grass in them.  After all, those spots are paid for by the fertilizer companies.  It's not their job to teach you NOT to use their products.  So I don't blame Scotts.  It's a free country.  No one makes us buy their stuff.

But if you want to grow great Grass, you need great Soil.  And for that you need a Soil Test.

Step #1: Get a Soil Test.  Your Soil must have just the right amount of Iron, Manganese, Potassium and Calcium.   Great Soil is the key to strong drought tolerance, because it promotes deep roots and efficient mycorrhizal activity.  A Soil Test will tell you what, IF ANYTHING, you need to 'feed' your Lawn.  You may need nothing.  You may be surprised and have too much of something else.  Find out:

soiltesting.tamu.edu

Texas A&M is one of the premier agricultural research powerhouses in the world.  Their Soil Testing is ne plus ultra excellent.  You can spend as little as $10 or as much as $50 for a comprehensive report that will tell you about every molecule in the Lawn.  I love details, but you can get by with the 'Routine' test.  Just be VERY careful about following instructions for the Soil sampling.

Step #2: Control Weeds.

Weeds specialize in heat, drought and low fertility.  They are usually Annuals.  The keys to Weed control:

(1)  Mow right often, at just the right height;

(2)  Water your Grass DEEP and LONG to make it vigorous and tough (and anti-Weeds);

(3)  NEVER let Weeds go to Seed;

(4)  Fertilize at peak growth periods with a gentle, non-toxic ORGANIC Fertilizer that will promote microbial growth.  NOT destroy them.

University of California at Davis does a lot of research on Weeds and Grass.  One point they make over and over about how important it is to mow your Grass right:  'No single height is best for all Turfgrasses... Each Grass species will be healthier and have a deeper root system the higher the Grass is mowed.'  Here's one essay they have published on this matter:

anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/pdf/8006.pdf

Yardener's Advisor Newsletter posts their advice in 'Mowing The Southern Lawn':

www.yardener.com/MowingtheSouthernLawn.html

They note, 'Routinely mowing Southern Turfgrasses such as Bermudagrass... to a minimum height of 1 1/2 inches reduces Weeds because the longer blades block sunlight that ever-present Weed Seeds in the Soil need to germinate.'

And they also point out that mowing your Lawn high 'allows for a deeper root system leading to a more water efficient turf.  Longer roots reach farther for water.  Low mowing leads to low roots because root systems as a rule grow only as long as the Grass.'  Most industry data will tell you to mow Hybrid Bermudagrass at 1/2 to 1 inch.  During Summer Drought and Heat spells, mow a half inch higher.

Remember that your Warm Season Grass will grow fastest in the heat of Summer.  Plan on doing most of your Bermudagrass mowing then.  Even if it's 110 degrees F in the shade.  EVEN IF IT RAINS.  If you mow too high, your Warm Season Grass will build up Thatch.  Bad for Grass.  Good for Weeds.  Take mowing height VERY SERIOUSLY.

Yardener's Advisor says people often mess up when it comes to mowing.

'Because Warm Season Southern Grasses have a reputation for tolerating closer mowing, some homeowners mistakenly mow too short.  Increasing the height of your Grass only 1/8 inch adds about 300 additional square feet of leaf surface for each 1,000 square feet of Lawn.  The extra leaf surface enhances Grass growth above the ground and -- even more importantly -- under the Soil.'

You can mow horizontal (prostrate) Bermudagrass once a week; most other hybrids need a 2x week cut.

Mow right, and your Grass will thrive while you're on your way toward perfecting Weed control.

What else can you do to kill Weeds?

Fertilize!

A modest dose of Earth friendly Organic Nitrogen Fertilizer is one of your best weapons for whacking Weeds.  Just don't overdo it.  Less is more.  As they point out at yardener's Advisor, 'Excessive fertilization can adversely affect water uptake and high Nitrogen application promotes increased shoot growth at the expense of root growth.'

Nitrogen fertilizer works on Grass blades -- NOT Grass roots.  You need drought tolerance and deep roots.  Not tall Grass with weak tissue.  Don't go crazy with the Fish Emulsion or whatever your pick.

Rule #3: Water right.

Current research maintains that the old watering schedule, which ran on a 10- and 15-day timetable, was less than ideal.  Instead, soak, then stop, in 2- to 4-day cycles.  That promotes deep roots and builds muscles to push around invading Weeds.

But we live in an imperfect world.  If you cannot water that frequently, celebrate.  Your Bermudagrass has nerves of steel when it comes to drought tolerance.  Do your best.  That's all you need. You're growing Bermudagrass.

There you are.  The basics.  Any questions?

THE LONG ISLAND GARDENER

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