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Flea Beetles


Question
Hello Mike,

I am new to growing potatoes this year. I bought four plants and planted them in potato grow bags that I bought from Gardners Supply .   I noticed the other day that there were tiny round holes in some of the outer leaves.  I told my sister who encouraged me to grow them, and she said I'd better find out what they were, and get rid of them quickly.  From what I have researched; they are the potato flea beetle.  How would I get rid of them organically?  I have neem oil, but am not sure that I should use that.  Also, I have started the square foot gardening method this year, and I see that you use that as well. Any tips or advise you have on sq. ft. grdn. would be appreciated.

Thank You for all that you do to help others.  God Bless

Wendy

Answer
Flea beetles can be controlled with several organic products including pyrethrum, rotenone, insecticidal soaps, and horticultural sprays. The one I recommend highly is a product called Pyola. It is a combination of the pyrethrum, which is a derivative of the chrysanthenum flower, and cannola oil. This product can be reviewed by linking to Gardens Alive, a company that specializes in organic pest control.  

http://www.gardensalive.com/product.asp?pn=8101  

Another effective control for flea beetles and many other smaller insects are yellow sticky traps. They can be made at home using yellow poster boards covered on one side with Tangle-Trap or any other sticky substance generally sold for trees at garden centers. You can also purchase them pre-cut in packs of 10. An example can be viewed through the attached link:

http://www.planetnatural.com/site/yellow-sticky-traps.html  

http://www.planetnatural.com/site/tanglefoot-trap-coating.html

Square foot gardening is a method of intensive gardening. The term "square foot gardening" was coined by an American author named Mel Bartholomew who wrote a book under that title.

Quite simply, this method utilizes vegetables and flowers planted very close in proximity, and grown in raised beds which are framed by natural non-rotting wood such as cedar. The beds can be structured anywhere from 2'X4' to 4'X12', with the most common configuration being 4'X4'.

The advantages to this method are as follows:

1. The soil stays friable since you never walk in the beds.
2. You can harvest many more vegetables since you're planting in blocks instead of rows.
3. The beds are much easier to water since there is no waste between rows. The same hold true for fertilizing.
4. Less weeding since there are no rows between plants and every square foot is dedicated to vegetables.
5. Easier pest control.
6. Rotation of crops is done by bed instead of location.
7. The beds are more aesthetic, and far less work.
8. No tilling each spring.
9. Trellises are structured at the north ends of the beds as a means to save even more space by growing vining plants such as peas, beans, and squash vertically.

Here are examples of what can be planted in each square foot:

9 onions, beets, bush beans, bush peas, garlic, or spinach.
16 carrots or radishes.
4 lettuce, chard, marigolds, or kohlrabi.
1 tomato, pepper, eggplant, broccoli, cabbage, or corn.
1 squash, cucumber, or melon per 2 sq.ft.
6 vining plants such as beans or peas on trellises.

This method works well in all parts of the country, and is becoming increasingly popular every year.

I realize this can't begin to explain all that is involved in starting a new garden. That is why I strongly recommend investing in one or two good books on the subject. There are numerous ones on the market, but the one I really recommend is "Square Foot Gardening" by Mel Bartholomew. It can be found on the web or at your local bookstore. Also, feel free to use this forum again should you have any other questions or run into any problems.

Attached is a website that will give you additional information on the subject.

http://www.squarefootgardening.com/

Good luck with your garden, and please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Regards,

Mike  

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