Question
QUESTION: Hello.  I bought a bunch of perennials such as Foxglove, Johnny Jump Ups, Cone Flowers, Lupine, Red Hot Pokers, Larkspurs, and Hollyhock. I planted them from seed in a greenhouse that I have inside my home about a month ago.  I plan on transplanting them in my yard in a few weeks.  Do you have any suggestions when I transplant them outside?  Should I place them in the shade for about 10 days before transplanting them outside for good?  How often should I water them?  Also, how often should I fertilize them?  What is the best fertilizer to use for example 10-10-10?

I also planted vegetables from seed in my garden.  They are Tomatoes, Lima Beans, Snap Beans, Cantaloupe, Watermelon, Honey Dews, Peppers, Squash, and Cucumber.  How often should I water my garden?  How often should I water them?  Also, how often should I fertilize them?  What is the best fertilizer to use for example 10-10-10?

I also have fruit trees planted in my yard.  They are plum trees, apple trees, pear trees fig trees, kumquat trees, and peach trees.  They were planted in my yard last summer.  They all are about 5 to 8 feet tall.  How often should I water my fruit trees?  Also, how often should I fertilize them?  How often should I water them?  Also, how often should I fertilize them?  What is the best fertilizer to use for example 10-10-10?

I really appreciate you advice and help.

Frank Marx

ANSWER: Frank:
Your flowers should be moved outside when all danger of frost has past. You didn't say where you live, so I don't know when that might be. Harden them off by placing them in filtered sunlight for a few hours only the first day, then increase both the hours of sunlight and cooler temperatures (nights) over a period of about a week. I would use a 5-10-5 for fertilizer.

You have planted all warm weather crops in your vegetable garden, so I have to assume that you are in the southern part of the country. Water as needed to maintain about 1" per week, especially while the plants are growing. Again, I don't know if you just planted the seed or everything is up and growing already, so I'll just remind you to keep seeds moist, which may mean daily watering. It's hard to say how much to fertilize without knowing your soil, a general idea would be the same 5-10-5 about 2 weeks after planting and again when the plants flower.

Fruit trees should be watered at least once a week until they are well established, which yours might be already. Again, it depends on where you live, how much moisture is in the ground, the temperatures. They need very little fertilizer, if any at this age. A bit of Nitrogen perhaps. They should be putting on about 18-30" of new growth, so if you're seeing less than that, then you could go ahead and give them about 2 ounces of nitrogen, increasing that a bit each year up to 1/2 lb for all but the peach, 1 lb for the peach.

Your best bet is to 1)test your soil, 2)see if you can get any information from local extension service offices or nurseries because the soil and climate are different everywhere, and 3)get yourself a good basic gardening book for a reference.

Elyse

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Boy, I feel like an idiot for not telling you where I live.  I live in Moultrie, Georgia.  I believe I am in hardiness zone 8.  I planted some of my vegetables and perennials from seed in a greenhouse that I have inside.  I also planted some of the vegetables via seed.

Might you have any changes to the very detailed suggestions that you gave me?  

Thank you for your help and advice.

Frank

ANSWER: Frank:
I don't think I have any changes, except that if your nights are already warm, you probably can harden off the flowers in 3-5 days instead of 7. I understand it is warm there already, so water your transplants and seedlings often - daily if needed, just to keep them moist. After a couple of weeks they will have been acclimated and be sending out new roots, so they won't be as vulnerable.

I think I recently noticed a gardening book specifically for the south, if you can find something like that, I think you will find it a worthwhile investment. Also, seed catalogs usually have good growing information in them.

I've got some links to seed catalogs and helpful charts on the resource page of my blog:
<a title="Garden to Table" href="http://www.mygardentotable.com">Garden to Table</a>
You might find some of them helpful.

Elyse

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I asked you a question a while back.  You were a lot of help.  I have an entire new question.  I've been planting plants in a little five shelf green house that I have inside my house.  I propagate via stem cuttings and I also plant from seed.  My problem is that every plant that I try to transplant either outside or in another bigger pot messes up real bad.  Instead of the plant and the soil coming out together, the I pull the plant out without the soil.  The soil stays behind so all I have is a plant with a little bit of roots.  Am I transplanting them too early?  Should I wait and allow the roots surround the soil so the soil comes along with the plant when I transplant them?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Frank

Answer
Frank:
The problem is that you are trying to pull the plant out of the pot. Of course it will come out of the soil, unless it is rootbound, which is not something to aim for. First of all, the soil should be moist before you set out to transplant. Then, place your hand over the top of the pot, with the stem between two fingers. Then turn the pot upside down. The soil block should slip right out. If it doesn't, give the bottom a couple of taps.

If the soil still falls off of the roots, then the plant is probably still a bit small. If you're potting it up, that's really not a problem, but if you're moving it outside you should at least be a little extra diligent with it until it gets established. And if you are only seeing a very small root mass, then I would wait a bit before transplanting at all.

Does that help?

Elyse