Question
I have both Jalapeno and Anehiem chillis growing in pots (I also have Cayan, Siam, Asian and Habenero). The Anehiem plant has just 3 chillis on it but they are almost the size of the plant (about 26cm long. The plant itself appears to be fading, leaves curling etc. I am wondering what I have done wrong here?
Also, I would dearly love to grow more Jalapeno's from the plant I have because it is producing like crazy. How can I do this?
If I may annoy you further, I would like to grow more of the other plants as well, from seed or cuttings, is this possible and how?
I am not a gardener, in fact these are the first things I have grown in 40 years.
All my plants are in pots of varying sizes as I have a concrete back yard.
Any help offered will be greatly appreciated.

Answer
Michael, overfertilizing, especially with a high nitrogen fertilizer such as standard Miracle-Gro, can cause the type of symptoms you have described.  The high nitrogen levels can adversely affect the foliage on young seedlings and the high salt content in most synthetic fertilizers can result in root burn.  My advice, especially while the plants are still young, is to fertilize once every 14 days at half strength to prevent excess salt buildup in the soil.

Another option is to purchase a water soluble fertilizer recommended specifically for peppers.  Miracle-Gro makes such a product, as does Peter's and Schultz.  These tend to be higher in phosphorus and potassium which are essential for good production and larger fruits.

Overwatering can definitely cause leaf curl on peppers. This is especially prevalent when using containers with poor drainage.  The result is poor root development, and nutrients being leached from the soil.  Make sure you supplement the plants with 1.5?of water per week by watering very deeply once or twice per week.  More may be required during periods of drought.  Shallow watering causes the roots to reach for the surface instead of deep into the soil.  The result is weakened plants with little or no harvest.

One other possibility is that plant has become root bound. Peppers should be transplanted twice to larger pots prior to planting in the garden or before they produce fruit. They are one of the few plants that actually thrive when transplanted. They also should be planted several inches deeper each time.  This allows the bottom of their stems to produce root nodules that result in a stockier and stronger plant.  It will also aid in increasing the harvest once the plant begins producing.

Finally, make sure the plants are well mulched with either straw or aged grass clippings.  This will help retain moisture while keeping the roots cool.  Next year, work in as much organic matter as possible to the soil.  This would include humus, compost, and manure.  And make sure you rotate the plants using a three year cycle to prevent soil borne diseases from affecting next year's plants.  Never plant the same type of vegetable in the same pot or in the same spot in the garden.  The good news is that this condition normally corrects itself.  Use the techniques I described above and the problem should disappear shortly.

Cuttings are without question the easiest method of propagation besides harvesting seed.  Simply cut a tender shoot that is at least six inches long.  Remove the lower sets of leaves.  Dip the cutting in a rooting compound. You can purchase this product at any garden center. Stick the cutting one inch into a good potting mix.  Be sure to thoroughly wet the soil prior to planting.

Finally, cover the pot with a clear piece of lightweight plastic.  Place the pot in indirect sunlight on an east window seal or under fluorescent lighting.  After two weeks, check to see if the plant has rooted by slightly pulling on the stem.  If you feel resistance, remove the plastic covering and be sure to keep the soil moist.  The plant should then be treated as any other seedling.

Starting seeds is actually an easy process, but success only comes through many years of trial and error. I have been starting seeds indoors for the last eight years and thoroughly enjoy it.  Since I start over 500 seedlings, including annuals, vegetables, and herbs, it does become a full-time hobby.  The obvious advantages are the cost savings and the variety as opposed to purchasing seedlings at the garden center.

Most vegetable and annual flower seeds need to be started 6-8 weeks prior to your last expected frost.  The exact timing can be found on the seed packets, but 6 weeks is usually a good rule of thumb.

Seedlings need to be in simulated sunshine for at least 14 hours per day.  They also need 8 hours of dormancy for good growth.  You either need to invest in fluorescent bulbs called gro-lights which are as close to natural light as anything sold on the market, or substitute these with less expensive bulbs. By using one cool and one warm white fluorescent in combination, you will achieve the same effect.

If given the correct conditions, namely adequate moisture, strong light, and healthy soil, the plants will germinate and grow to maturity with few or any problems.  To maintain moisture, seeds should be covered with plastic.  I grow my seedlings in seed trays with individual cell packs.  After sowing, I cover with a pre-fitted plastic dome.  But once the first seedlings sprout, it is important to remove the cover to avoid damping-off disease.  This is a fatal fungus disease which only attacks young seedlings, and is caused by inadequate air circulation and non-sterile soil.  That is why I advise all those who start seeds indoors to only use sterile, soiless mixes.  These mixes can be purchased at any garden center.

Once the seedlings develop their second set of leaves, you can begin supplementing the plants with a diluted solution of fertilizer.  Since you want to keep the nitrogen and salt levels low at this stage of growth, I highly recommend staying away from the chemical mixes.  Rather, use a seaweed/fish emulsion formula at ?the recommended level.  This will help the plants' development and also help ward off disease.  You can purchase these organic formulas at most garden centers or through online websites such as Gardens Alive.

Finally, be sure to keep your fluorescent lights no higher than 3?above the seedlings at all times.  This is critical to prevent the plants from becoming weak and spindly.  As I mentioned earlier, they should be left on 14 hours per day.  If fluorescent lighting is not possible, put them in a southwest window and turn them every three days to avoid leaning.

I am attaching a few websites that should prove helpful.  I would also advise you to purchase 揟he New Seed-Starters Handbook?by Nancy Bubel. It has many good ideas and techniques that benefit even experienced gardeners.

http://www.gardenguides.com/TipsandTechniques/starting.htm
http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06570.htm
http://echonet.org/shopsite_sc/store/html/SeedStarterHandbook.html

I hope this answered your questions.  Please write again if I can ever be of assistance.

Regards,

Mike