Question
QUESTION: I turned the system on for the summer and tested it thru the manual button.
Now I can't turn it off, except by shutting off the valve at the house.
How do I clear the manual setting so it can run auto?

ANSWER: Matthew,

I need more info:

What will not turn off? One particular zone or the system keeps on running a cycle?

Are you in a Northern climate where you have your system winterized? If so did you have it professionally done or did you do it yourself?

Did you try to unplug the timer?

Bob D

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: "Hi" Bob, I unplugged the timer and removed the back up battery leaving it off for ten or so minutes.
I replugged the timer and reset the settings and put the dial back on auto. Then I went out and turned the supply valve for a bank of five sprinkler valves and the whole system went on. Immediately.

ANSWER: I know I may sound like I am asking the same question but I don't mean to.

So to clarify: When you went outside:

"The whole system went on" means which of the following

1. Zone 1 came on
2. Zone 1 came on and then when zone 1 was finished zone 2 came on
3. ALL zones 1-5 came on and stayed all, ALL running at the same time

Do you have a VOLT meter?

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Well, Bob, funny you should ask. Zone 1 was out front and i didn't check there. However, when I turned the supply line on to the back sprinkler valves, all the zones went on referring to zones 2 thru 5. They continued on 'til after the ten minute manual setting elapsed.
So tell me Bob. Is my timer messed up?
I don't understand how; with the battery out + the power unplugged, how did the valves still let water go thru. Don't the valves shut off when not energized?
Shutting everything off and unplugging should reset everything and when it is turned on everything should be off.
Is my timer controller bad?
Some of the sprinkler valves have water leaking from the vent caps.
Are my sprinkler valves bad?
The 'expert' we called to trouble shoot the system recommended that he replace all five valves and the controller at a cost of $1100 dollars. The valves are only $25 at the Home repair store. I don't know about the controller. But all the sprinkler lines are working along with the heads.
Am I better off replacing the five valves and controller myself?
Is that something I can do with no experience in watering systems?
Well, Bob. What do you think?

Answer

anti-siphon valve   Well Matthew,

You are telling me that zones 2-5 are all running at the same time when no power is to the controller. You are also leading me to believe that you have anti-siphon valves which should put you in a Southern or Western climate that does not typically get winterized. (My assumption, since the information was not provided) Irrigation systems are not the same across the country there are subtle differences from region to region. The products, installation techniques and even design to a certain extent could be different in Ohio then they would be in North Carolina, Florida, Nevada, California, Washington, Texas or Alberta.

Troubleshooting a valve that stays on even when the power source is cut to the controller would point to a issue with the valve itself. No information has been provided regarding age or model number so I will do my best.  I would do the following to each valve that stays open.

1. Check to make sure that the solenoid is in the manually off position and if the valve has a bleeder screw to make sure that is turned off as well
2. Turn OFF the water supply to the irrigation system. I would then take apart and clean along with flushing out the inside of the valve while paying special attention to the rubber diaphragm. Look for any debris in the valve and remove it even if you may think it is too small. Clean the rubber diaphragm of any organic matter along with the inside of the valve. Reassemble the valve and turn the water back on to test. Do not use any type of cleaning agent or lubricant. Only use water.

You mentioned that your anti-siphon "vents" were leaking. That kind of concerns me but if all of your zones are trying to come on at the same time then it may just be an effect of the reduced pressure on the mainline.

Well Matthew, what I think is what you are describing to me is a valve issue if the valves are still coming on when there is to power supply to the controller. So the first thing to do would be to repair the valves or replace them and go from there. Are you better off replacing the valves yourself rather then having a contractor do the work? Well Matthew I don't know how handy you are but my guess would be if you are reaching out here for answers then you should be capable of repairing the system yourself. Also keep in mind that if you can find the same size and model valve you may be able to switch out the components and solenoids of each valve instead cutting out the old one.

I have attached a image of what style of valve I think you may have.  On the right side of the valve you will notice the solenoid with the 2 wires coming out of the top. The small screw to the left of the solenoid is the bleeder screw. The diaphragm will be found under the solenoid inside the grey plastic. The grey plastic part to the left of the bleeder screw is the anti-siphon part of the and this part of the valve acts as a safety measure by preventing anything in that zone from flowing back into your water supply. By design that have to be atleast 12" above the highest head on the zone they control.

The unusual part of this is that all of the valves went bad at the same time. The only scenerios I can image that would cause all the valves to act like they are would be:

1. Extended period of time of the system not being used
2. A watermain break in your area that may have allowed debris to enter the valves
3. If you live in Florida or similar and you are using reclaimed or canal water that has snails in it
4. If you had any interior plumbing work recently which could have allowed debris to enter the line
5. Bad luck and all the valves went at once


Matthew I wish you luck and please keep me in the loop on this. You may have an issue with your timer but since the valves are coming on when the timer is not plugged in then we have to start at the valves first.