Question
QUESTION: Hello,

I have 9 irrigation valves made by Superior for my sprinkler system.  The system was installed about 6 years ago.  Over a period of a few days, 6 of the 9 stopped working and all I could hear was a "clicking sound" coming from the valve system.  I deduced that the problem was the solenoid (or really the part within that moves, but I don't know the name).  I purchased new solenoids of the same make.  In one case I replaced the entire solenoid since I had to take my old one off to bring in for matching.  However, for the others I just replaced the inner piece that goes up and down.

In all cases this fixed the problem in that those sprinkler zones now go on with the timer as they used to.  However, the clicking sound persists at each and every one of those valves during operation.  I don't recall hearing this noise before when the sprinklers were on.  

Can you tell me if this clicking noise is normal during operation?  If not, what might cause this with a brand new solenoid that is otherwise working fine to turn on/off the water?

Thanks very much!

ANSWER: Thanks for the question.
A solenoid should click once when it first comes on. The only noise you might be able to hear after that is a slight hum.
The fact you had 6 solenoids burn out in a few days indicates your controller is doing something strange or you have had a lightning hit. The best bet is to test the voltage at the terminals. Put one test probe on the "COM" terminal and the other on a active zone. You should read 22-28 volts. Any more and your solenoids are going to burn out again. Also, if the voltage is fluctuating by more than a volt or 2, you may have the same problem in a few days.
I would suggest doing the volt test fairly soon to avoid damaging you new solenoids.

Matt

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Matt,

Thanks so much for the quick response.  The problem is now solved, but the answer has led me to scratch my head a little.  First, I had taken some electrical readings yesterday, but I did not spend a lot of time in the analysis which I should have.  Your post forced me to take a harder look!

My issue was not too many volts, but too few.  In reality only 1 of my solenoids was bad, but let me explain and hopefully you can help with the "why" question.

When I was testing the system I would switch the controller to the valve in question and engage the manual start.  This is when I would hear the clicking.  When I used my volt meter at the control box, I had a heavily fluctuating reading.  If I engaged the manual process but then switched the controller back to the start (top) position, the clicking went away and the volts were steady.  What's strange is that I for years would test certain zones when I knew sprinkler heads went bad.  I would engage the same process without returning the dial to the start/top position and I don't recall ever hearing the clicking noise.  So I am not sure why that happens now?  I almost imagine that leaving the dial on the valve number is sort of like holding in the starter on a grill where it continually fires.  Perhaps returning the dial to the top position disengages that?  If so why is this the first time I am hearing clicking when I don't do that?

Last question.  When I test the volts at the controller, I see about 26 volts (with nothing on) at the main terminals.  When I engage on the valves and test the volts (again at the controller) for that valve it shows around 5 volts (when the dial is returned to top).  I am not sure how much juice each solenoid is supposed to get, but does that sound right?  Incidentally, when I left the dial on the valve number and did this test the volts fluctuated between 2.5-4.  

Thanks again!


So in the end it seems I only legitimatly had 1 bad solenoid and the rest of the problems were a red herring of sorts.

Answer
Glad you now have many spare solenoids.
Irrigation valves require 24 volts to open the solenoid. Though you might see a slight drop when you first activate the controller. The voltage should return to 22-26 when the valve is open. 5 volts is a problem.
I suggest removing the wire to the valve (any valve)and test again. Then, wire one of your spare solenoids to "COM" and the valve terminal and test again. This will determine if the problem is a field wire or the controller. If the voltage is fine with only the solenoid connected the controller is fine. You have a wire short somewhere. If the problem is the same with or without the solenoid connected the controller is the problem. My guess is the controller. I don't think the dial position is the problem.

Matt