Question
QUESTION: Hi Marc,

I have a colonial house abutting conservation land (i.e. wilderness).  I currently have for a fence 4X4" -6 foot post with 4 foot high welded wire fence strung between the posts.  This have been adequate to keep the dog in and to allow me a view of the outside woodland.

I would like to keep my view of the woodlands but also have a fence to tie my landscape (some native and non-native) plants together.  I would like to use my currently installed posts for a new fence.  My property has a general slope downwards and then an abrupt rise 3:1 over a old spoil berm and down into a former railbed, which is now a wetlands.  

My thoughts are to use a post and board fence (boards nailed to outside face of post).  This type of fence can be made to easily follow the gradual downward slope, and then then over the berm.   This type of fence is also within my skill set.  Not concerned about privacy, as I don't do anything in my yard I'm embarrassed about. I don't have any animals to keep in other than my dog, but I will re-install the greeen welded wire fence for that.

Okay after the long-winded pre-amble, my questions are what is the typical spacing between boards, size of boards width and thickness, number of rails for a typical installation of this type?  I would like to keep the fence about 4-feet high.

ANSWER: Soulds like you are describing a "picket" fence (open to look through), versus a "board" fence (solid/privacy fence).

There is no "standard" or "typical" spacing for pickets, but here are some examples of what I think you are describing:

http://www.newenglandfence.net/fence/cedar_picket.php

Generally, I like to space pickets at about half the board width.  As board width is usually from 2 to 4-inches, the spacing would be 1-2 inches apart.  For a more open feel, increase the distance to a full width, or 2-4 inches apart.  

Thickness is usually 3/4 inch, but can be more or less, depending on what is available at the lumber yard.

Rails for a 4-foot height fence is usually just two, at about 4 inches up from the ground, and about 4-inches down from the top of the picket rail.

Here are two websites on how to build the rest of the fence:

http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/gl_structures_other/article/0,1785,HGTV_3639_1384814,00

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/h2woodfence

One other consideration is any restriction due to zoning or by covenant, that may dictate placement, width, or height of any new fence.

You should really check your local zoning office before proceeding with your fence construction. Be sure to survey your property line if you are placing the fence on a boundary line. Many a fence has had to be moved because of this oversight - even if it has been there for years.

If I missed the mark by desctibing a "picket" fence when you ment a "board" fence, go back to the first link and look at other examples of solid fencing styles....and the gap between the solid planks is usually only the width of a nail, or about 1/8-inch for a solid board fence.


Hope it helps -

~Marc



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Marc,

A post and board fence in NE maybe called a post and rail fence or horse fence in other parts of the country.  What are what is the typical spacing between boards, size of boards width and thickness, number of rails for a typical installation of this type?

Answer
I wish there was a site I could direct you to that has a "standard" deatil.  Maybe this one will help you in constructing a "split rail" fence:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=LawnGarden/PostRailFence.html

The standard height for a HORSE fence 54-inches, or 4-1/2 feet tall, with three rails, and a gap at the bottom of no less than 8 inches (so the horse doesn't get its hoof caught)...but you and your dog don't need a horse paddox!  To keep the dog in the yard, you have the right idea, to add back the wire mesh fencing to the lower rail.

Generally the posts are pre-manufactured with the receiving holes for the rails (call a mortis), so its just a matter of how deeply you bury them into the earth that will dictate the height of the lowest rail.  

Out here, they are made of split cedar, so the wood dimensions are variable - approximately 3-inches square (-ish), with a 1x3 tounge (called a tenon) that goes into the mortis hole.

You can also trim off the top of the posts to make them uniform in appearance.  

Or, for a less-secure connection, you can nail the wood plank (I would specify a 2x6 or greater) to a solid 4x post or peeler log post that has no "receiver" hole.  If a larger animal is to eventually rub up against it, you'll want the nailed side "in" towards the animal's direction of rubbing - horses and cattle are notorious for knocking over board fences that have been installed backwards!

Hope this answers your question! ~M