Question
QUESTION: I live in middle Tennessee and am getting ready to apply the pre-emergent. Problem is that with all the crazy weather we've had we already have tons of weeds. Is there something that is an all in one (weed elimination and prevention )or do I have to treat separately??

ANSWER: If I understand you correctly, my friend, you want to wipe out everything but your Lawn with one easy step.  Correct, or not?

Can't be done.  Some Weeds are Annuals.  Some Weeds are Perennials.  Annuals die at the end of the season by definition.  You just have to make sure they don't get to plant any of those Seeds at the end of the season.

Which is where Corn Gluten Meal comes in.  Ever hear of it?

This is a natural pre-emergent treatment that halts growth of ALL things that sprout out of a Seed.  You can pick it up in farm suply stores where it will be much less costly.  Follow directions VERY carefully -- this is a scientific product with specific ways to succeed with it.

Remember too that the healthiest, thickest Grass chokes out Weeds without lifting a finger.  What kind of Grass are you growing?  Are you satisfied with it?  rsvp,

L.I.G.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks for your response. I'm growing a tall fescue.
I like it very much. other than the heat out here gets to it in late july and august.

Answer
Tall Fescue to the rescue -- There's a reason this Grass is so popular.  Why all the Weeds?

Drought-tolerant Weeds do not overtake a Lawn because you missed the boat on Crabgrass Killer.  Weeds take over a Lawn for other reasons.  Fact is, strong Grass does not get Weeds.  Just like healthy people do not get sick.

Did you know for instance, Jim, that Lawngrass and Weeds do not like the same kind of Soil?

Weeds THRIVE in Acid soil.  Turfgrass prefers Alkaline Soil.  What's the pH of your Soil?  You've got to find that out!

A Soil Test will give you a scientific analysis and pH read of your Soil.  This is the only way to learn what needs to be done to make your Fescue festive.  I strongly recommend one.  Find out what is
right -- and wrong -- with your Soil.

Next, we know that strong Grass gets its start at the right time of year.  In the Northeast, that would be Autumn.  Spring is in the air, but it sounds like you have a reasonable basic Fescue foundation.  Please confirm.

Now, what's your mowing system?

You have probably heard this one before, but I'll say it again: When you mow Grass, it's always best to leave the clippings.  This practice returns TONS of nutrients to your Soil.  Especially Nitrogen.  Leave your clippings on and all Summer, you will build up a nice rich topsoil.  Mow often and you will keep the clippings small and quick to decompose.  (Plus mowing high will prevent you from chopping off too much at one time, so your Grass stays very happy.)

The Better Lawn and Grass Institute points out, 'Proper mowing, watering, and fertilizing practices develop a Lawn that needs less chemicals to control Weed, insect, and disease problems. This is particularly true when you haveestablished your Lawn with improved Grass varieties.'  You can read the whole essay at their website:

www.turfgrasssod.org/lawninstitute/guide.html

Speaking of improved Grass, what is the name of that Fescue you planted between the Weeds?  You need first rate Seed to grow a first rate Lawn.  Mowing at the right height not only makes your Fescue tougher, it weakens Weeds at the same time!

These are proven, scientific methods they worked out at research centers around the country to grow better Grass.  Because we Americans are crazy when it comes to Grass growing.  And we spend a ton of money on our Lawns.

You can check The Lawn Institute website above or Organic Lawns for the best mowing height for your Grass variety:

www.organiclawncaretips.com

By the way, Weeds HATE Lawnmowers.  Chopping off the top of a Weed is just like punching it in the stomach.  On the other hand, mowing off the tips of your Grass is like giving them a massage.  It's great for the roots and it interferes shoves away Weed growth.  So you kill 2 birds with one stone when you mow your Grass right.

They have proved that in the laboratory, by the way.

Next, stay away from ANYTHING BAD for your Grass.  That means DO NOT use Chemical Fertilizer, Fungicide or WEED AND FEED!

Those evil chemicals generate thatch and cause all sorts of problems by destroying all forms of life underfoot.  You NEED micro flora and
fauna in your Soil.  They feed the Nitrogen cycle.  Earthworms. Beetles.  Fungi.  Ladybugs and Butterfly Larvae.  Grubs and other organisms.  They build healthy Soil.  They grow beautiful Grass.

I recommend you put some White Clover in your Lawn this year.  White Clover POURS Nitrogen into the soil.  And it's pretty and it smells sweet.

Nitrogen is actually one of your best weapons for whacking Weeds.  

Surprised?

University of Illinois tested the effect of Nitrogen at different rates on Tall Fescue:

www.turf.uiuc.edu/research/summaries/1994/94_3.1.pdf#search='university%20test%20mowing%20height'

The results are posted:  'Annual Bluegrass populations were greatest in Tall Fescue maintained at a 1 or 2 inch mowing height.'

Note that's ANNUAL bluegrass they're talking about - a Weed.

They also noted: 'Crabgrass populations increased as mowing height decreased...'

When it came to fertilizer, the researchers found that it DID NOT MATTER how much Nitrogen was fed to the Grass.  ALL THAT MATTERED WAS THAT THE GRASS WAS FED!  The plot where they put down NO Fertilizer had the worst Grass: 'Tall Fescue that was not fertilized had significantly higher broadleaf Weed populations than Turf not fertilized with any Nitrogen.'

It just boils down to giving the Grass what it likes, especially when the Weeds dislike it even more.

Researchers concluded that 'even a low annual rate of Nitrogen fertilization can decrease broadleaf Weed populations and reduce or ELIMINATE the need for Herbicide control.' Emphasis added.

So a few weeks from now, when your new Grass is just beginning to stir, and the Forsythia is turning out that yellow wash all over the block, get out the spreader and throw down the Corn Meal Gluten.  It needs a dry period to be most effective so watch those instructions carefully.  The timing is also critical.  You need to get the Weed seeds just as they are germinating.  And with Corn Gluten you will not need any further Nitrogen fertilizing for the season.  The slow, steady N feeding will grow thick, strong Fescue.  No extra N required.

Mow carefully, correctly, and your weed population will be ELIMINATED.  No fuss.  No muss.

Piece of cake.  Thanks for writing.  Any questions?