Question
Background:  Last spring ('07) I had an 'organic new lawn' installed after a construction project.  The seed grew beautifully in early summer and then died off.  Tried re-seeding in late-summer with same outcome (we were told we'd probably under watered during July but I don't think we did (we have a sprinkler).  After the second seeding died in the same fashion as the first, I had the soil tested (in late fall,) and its ph was between 7.1 and 7.2.  Apparently the gentleman who 'made' the soil over limed it (he actually bragged about the fact that this was 'great soil' with 'lots of lime').

At that time, the 'lawn store' recommended we fertilize (with a non-organic fertilizer [20-5-18] as it wasn't warm enough to use organic).  The man there said fertilizer will lower alkalinity a little, and its most important to feed the roots over the winter.  HAH, what roots?  I realize it wasn't his fault, but apparently what I had was already dead roots.  It's been raining all winter, and I now have a giant mud pit.  The soil is heavy and sticky ...

Question:  How do I increase the acidity of my lawn?  I have read that rain increases acidity as the lime 'leeches' or runs off ... but I've also read that it is very difficult to adjust lime by more than a point.  I'm going to test my soil again, but I fully expect I'll find a similar ph.  My current 'lawn' is mud in the center (where the sun is brightest) and extremely thin/weak grass around the edges.  I had less soil delivered around the edges as that portion of the lawn was less affected by the construction ... I'm not sure if the weak grass there (as opposed to no grass in the middle) is the result of 'better soil' or just less traffic.

Yes, I do have kids and a dog, but this problem is not simply traffic related.  I kept the kids and the dog off the new lawn for over a month both times we seeded.  They actually didn't really go back on it until it was already dying (it stops growing taller and slowly turns yellow before it just suddenly turns brown and into a matted dust) and we knew it was a lost cause (especially recognizable the second time).

HELP!  I'm getting ready to re-seed (in late March?) and I desperately want it to take!  Thanks for considering our problem and offering both general suggestions as well as timing suggestions for 'treatments'.  THANK YOU (in advance).

Pam

Answer
Say the word 'organic' to a landscaper and they'll see dollar signs -- lots of them.  Consumers who lean in that direction tend to be better educated and as a result more affluent than, say, a businessman with no interest in gardening but a desire for a beautiful Green Lawn -- as well as no awareness of pesticides etc.  Everybody and their uncle wants to think that because they can push a lawnmower and get paid, they can landscape 'organically' and cash in.  That's like taking a guy who plays baseball and telling him to go ride your horse in the Belmont Stakes.  This is a different ballgame.  Remember that Old Gardener's Saying:  Caveat emptor.  Buyer beware.

You're right that Soil pH is a fairly stable number; this is not going to be fixed overnight.  Don't worry too much about it.  What's done is done.  Now you work with what you have.  There are lots of people whose pH is way much higher than yours.  You just fix it.  Be patient.  Remember that other Old Gardener's Saying:  All things come to those who wait.

Adding elemental Sulfur will reduce the pH a bit.  Consider that you may actually have Soil with a pH that is naturally on the high side, if not over the top.  Yes, it was most likely over-limed, but also remember that in your own words you do not alter a pH THAT dramatically overnight.  Calcareous soils are naturally alkaline -- this is quite common in communities along the coast.  And it is difficult -- and practically impossible -- to lower the pH of those soils as much as you'd want.

What you do want to watch for while you're trying to manage the pH is symptoms of nutrient deficiency in your new Lawn.  The pH determines what nutrients will be available, and what won't.  Assuming of course there are any nutrients down there to begin with.  Sounds to me like your Soil is going to need some serious work before you can grow anything reliably.  Here's what I think you should do:

1. NEVER buy anything because someone tells you it is 'organic'.  Buy it ONLY because you need it.  Likewise, don't believe anyone who tells you they can care for your Lawn 'organically', I don't know what other words they'd use -- they may even have the best of intentions, but the best way to get this done is by YOU knowing what THEY are doing because YOU decided it should be done.  Traditional landscapers do some back breaking work.  They do not have time to study soil chemistry, read about mycorrhizae, understand the Cation Exchange Capacity.  If you simply declare that you had a Soil test done, they will probably back off any recommendations of their own that may compromise your results.

2.  Remember that your pH is above the range of around 6.7 for perfect Cool Season Grass; some nutrients will be there in your Soil but not available just because the pH is too high.  If you have it, you do not need to add it.  Your best bet now is to add Organic Matter.  Compost, Composted Manure, Humus -- these all have the effect of lowering the pH while building up the Soil with nutrients AND innoculating your Soil with beneficial microorganisms that will generate good things for your new Grass.

3.  Mud is bad.  Weed Seeds see it as prime real estate.  Muddy Soil compacts big time.  Grass can't grow in it.  Grow yourself a Cover Crop asap -- Winter Rye will germinate and get the ball rolling with the least amount of pain to you.  You can read Colorado State's Extension Service speech on Winter Rye at their website:

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1607.html

I have my own speech about Cover Crops, but this is going to be too long if I go into that in this one answer.  If you'd like any elaboration, let me know, and I'll talk about it as long as long as you want to listen.

4.  At some point someone is surely going to tell you that you should aerate your hard as a rock Soil -- IXNAY on the RATEAENAY: You want to invite local Earthworms, Ants, Insects over, you want them to move in, you want their company, because they will do a MUCH BETTER JOB of aerating your Soil and they'll do it for FREE.

5.  Don't put any more non-organic fertilizer on your Soil.  It just evaporates and does nothing for the Grass or anything down there.  Your dead Grass can stay put -- it will contribute lots of organic matter to the Soil it grew in, retain moisture, even adjust the pH a smidgen downwards.  'Organic fertilizer' is made by the microorganisms in your Soil -- all you do is feed them.  They work overtime when it gets hot; they slow down when it gets cold.  That means they are producing the MOST Grass Food in small doses, all the time, when your Grass needs it; they shut down for the Winter when your Grass is dormant.  This is a match made in Heaven.

I want to get this out to you so you can review it -- I can talk and talk, like I said, but maybe you have some questions at this point.  Let me know and we'll go over each one.

This is VERY easy.  You do not have to worry about it.