Question
QUESTION: My husband and I purchased our home in May and received a sodded front lawn (tall fescue) which is a cool season grass, and so it suffered all summer.  We weren't able to aerate and re-seed in fall due to the drought.  We have a lot of bare patches that didn't survive the summer.  We also have a lot of tall grassy weeds in the summer that took over our yard.  We pulled them all out, but they will probably return in the summer again.  SO... Should we take this spring to over seed bare spots, OR, since we've been told that it wont do well in the summer heat, should we apply preemergent weed killer this spring to prevent grassy weeds from taking over, and wait until next fall to over-seed?  That is my MAIN question.  My next question is, when we do overseed, what kind should we use? Wild bermuda has taken over our back yard, but is only in a few spots in front, and I don't like bermuda, because it is brown in winter, but will it take over anyway?  And since it's a warm season grass, would I still be able to use preemergents for grassy weeds in the spring and then plant bermuda in the summer?  I would RATHER have a fescue front yard by far, though... so what are my options if I want fescue?  Wait till next fall, and use weed killer in spring?  Thanks!

ANSWER: Kristi:

You are truly on the horns of a dilemna, from Greek, meaning dual proposition.

If you desire fescue, then resolve to work for it over time.  A fescue turf requires overseeding, fertilization, aeration and whatever else you can lavish on it to produce a fine quality lawn.  Good lawns do not happen overnight with sod alone (or they do for a short while anyway.)

I would be cautious of using a pre-mergent with new seed, though there are some which tout the combination is all right.  You can establish a good stand of fescue before spring if you start now.  Overseed amply in February, ten pounds per thousand square feet is heavy.  Use a good variety blend recommended by a local garden or farm supply.  There are special blends, but, for continuity, use a local supplier.  They will have the same seed next year.  Fescue comes in a large number of varieties.

Aerate with overseeding.  Fertilize about two pounds of nitrogen per thousand feet.  If you think it may need some more fertilizer at the end of April, you may apply another pound then.  But watch the weather forecasts.  If it is dry then,hold off fertilizing.

The main strategy is to establish a firm stand with good coverage.  That is the best defense against weeds.  I have actually forced wiregrass and Bermuda out of fescue yards with proper maintenance and mowing.

If you want to spray for weeds midsummer, you can do that with a post emergent herbicide then.

In fall, start regular overseeding regime with the same you did in the spring, only with less seed and repeat each fall thereafter.

Mow at three to three and one-half inches with a very sharp blade honed at a low angle.  The idea is to cut the grass, not bludgeon it with dull blades.

If you wish to conquer the Bermuda, you may have to spray it with Roundup or like product and reseed those areas.  Otherwise, taking the cultural approach (as above) will take longer.  The fall timing and proper cutting favor fescue.  Spring maintenance will favor summer grasses.

Once you have begun a regular, properly timed regime, you can apply pre-emergents in the spring in an established lawn.

I hope that this is clear.  If you have any further questions, just email again.

Best wishes.


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I'm sorry... I have another question...  I forgot to mention that the Charlotte, NC region is still in a drought and we are not allowed to water our lawns... so if I want to seed in Feb, am I at a complete loss?  We haven't been able to water since mid summer, which is why I couldn't aerate and seed in the fall.  What is the latest that I can seed in the spring (hoping the water restrictions will let up)?  Thanks so much,
Kristi

Answer
Kristi:

Seed now to the end of February.  Rains have returned and will provide adequate moisture for germination and growth.  The recent rains have dropped several inches.  That is all that is required for grasses.  The soil has plenty of residual moisture until it dries out in late spring.

Do not wait until late March or April.  Droughts come as early as April and kill new lawns.

Best wishes.