Question
QUESTION: Hi... I am starting from scratch (no lawn in yet), but ground is uneven. Ideally I want 4" of new soil under the new lawn. In some places, in order to level the ground, this will mean up to 12" or more of new soil. It is being compacted with a roller, then left to settle over the winter, then rolled again. Does this amount of additional soil create drainage problems?

ANSWER: Thanks for posting the high marks for me. To address your question about the Alfalfa, you don't have to dig it in -- better in fact if you do not, so that you disturb the soil less.  Just mow it down and sow over it.

A warning about 'top soil': There's no regulation on this, meaning you can call anything Topsoil.  It almost always comes with weeds and is rarely worth the premium price they charge for it.  Maybe you'll get lucky.  Regardless, you still needed it to level off your plot.  If you do see Weeds, make a major effort to keep them from setting seed; it will save you future headaches.

Thanks again and if you have any more questions I'll be glad to answer them.  Good luck with your New Lawn.

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You are right to be focusing on the Soil under your Lawn.  I hope you have taken steps to analyze this Soil and see what kind of stuff you have, and what you're missing.

Rather than rolling the Soil, which I assume you are doing to minimize erosion, I would plant a cover crop.  Alfalfa is my CC of choice due to its extensive, deep roots, rich nutrient profile and the speed of establishment -- it's the original cover crop for a reason.

If the Soil is high quality, drainage will not be a problem.  A Soil Test will tell you if there is too much Clay and water is not escaping fast enough (anaerobic bacteria will enjoy that kind of Soil, but not Grass).  Builder 'topsoil' is a waste of time and money at best; it probably contains Weed seeds, and you do not need to plant Weeds at this point in time.

Where are you doing this work?  U.S.? rsvp

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QUESTION: Hi... We are wanting to lay sod now and are receiving conflicting advice in regard to 'when'. I live in Victoria BC where the climate is very temperate. We would not expect ground freeze until Dec (shuold there be any!) There is plenty of rain and we also have underground irrigation. Do you think it will be OK to lay the sod now and have it root before it goes dormant for the winter? HOw long does it take grass to root?

ANSWER: I'd roll out the Sod if you have more than a month for the roots to take hold.  At this time of year, moisture is not the issue it is in the heat of Summer; the danger would be more from a Fungus attack, and Sod is usually devoid of all natural protections, so you really do have to watch it.  I can't emphasize that too much -- the Fungus is your biggest threat.  Not moisture.  I'd go for it.

I would like to know if the 'conflicting advice' is from a local ag person or Sod seller.  A highly credentialed authority with local knowledge of your weather and soil is more qualified (probably) than I am -- but I would like an explanation just to make sure.  Some people are not really that good.  A neighbor just walked up to me last month to ask me why her landscaper won't sow her lawn until Spring.  So you have to know who you're talking to.  If your 'conflicting advice' is coming from the same landscaper, listen to ME.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Conflicting advice.... 'yes' goes to turf sellers; and 3 landscape architects. 'No' to my paving guy (who also works with landscapers; my yard maintenance fella. Their argument being that if we get frost the lawn won't root and therefore will die. However, in our climate the chance of frost at the time of year is minimal. I am going to listen to you and 'go for it' Sod should be in by first week of November.

How do I monitor for fungus attack? I presume a once a week good soaking will do?

Thanks again, you advice is ever so helpful!  

Answer
Boy you're quick.

Monitoring for Fungus -- you should be monitoring your WATERING, not for Fungus.

Water, let it dry out, Water, let it dry out.  In this case, make sure you water before the Sod goes down -- and you want rich, healthy Loam for the new roots to dig into.  A few bags of Bonemeal poked into the surface where the roots are will certainly assist, especially in the Spring when the roots are underway and the Grass is in full growth.

Fungus is like a Cold.  You DO NOT WANT THIS SOD to catch a Cold.  You want to AVOID a Cold.  You want the turf blades to DRY OUT before it gets dark at night.  NEVER irrigate in the dark at 3 o'clock in the morning when people love to turn on their sprinkler systems.  Do this at the crack of Dawn, and make sure those blades are DRY by late afternoon when the Sun goes down.  You're even further North than we are -- I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to keep your Lawn Free of Fungus.  If you expect rain, don't water.  Dew you can't do anything about, but when you water, water long and deep.  I would be surprised if you had to do this more than once a week, although it is hard to say long-distance pan-America how to water by remote control.  Fungus needs moisture and cool conditions to burst into bloom.  Do not open that door.

In this case, watering too much will be your downfall.

Try to get the Sod down before November.  The sooner, the better.  Like they say in NYC, put a rush on it.