Question
QUESTION: I live in Connecticut.  My lawn is more crab grass than grass.  I wanted to attack the problem this fall.  What sequence should I do things in - kill the crab grass, fertilize, seed, etc.?  Also, can you recommend weed killer, fertilizer, and type of grass seed (I was wondering about fescue)?  Most of the area is in the sun.

Thank you in advance

ANSWER: I think you meant that your Lawn is more Crab than Grass, no?  Sorry, couldn't resist.

The majority of Crabgrass plants are annuals.  If you wait, they will be out of commission next year.  Remember that as you stare at them this year.  Too late for this year, but if you don't let them seed, and you don't let the set seeds germinate, you will hopefully see the last of them.  Corn Gluten Meal applied in the spring will stop that from
happening again.  CGM is also a great slow-release Nitrogen fertilizer and it builds up your soil.

Full Sun in Connecticut calls for a state of the art 5-star Bluegrass hybrid.  Don't pick this up at Home Depot.  Select one off the internet that's going to cater to Connecticut soil and weather.  Rutgers University tests these every year  state by state -- let me know if you need guidance.  Or you can just check at Seedland.com and find a Bluegrass that you love.

Whatever you pick, don't settle.  A great Bluegrass will help you fight Weeds.  There are lots of new, tough, aggressive Grass introductions out there that will put Weeds in their place.  Universities work around the clock on brand new test-tube Grasses.  Because we Americans LOVE our Grass.  

I recommend you add a bag of White Clover to your order.  White Clover POURS Nitrogen into the soil.  And it's pretty and it smells sweet.

Let me guess... Because your Lawn was covered with Weeds, you did not fertilize.  Am I right?  I mean, what normal person would fertilize a Lawn made of Weeds?

Au contraire.  Fact is, the University of Illinois learned that when it comes to fertilizer, the amount of Nitrogen is not what matters -- as long as you use SOME Nitrogen fertilizer.  In one test they did, putting down NO fertilizer was visibly WORSE for the Grass: 'Tall Fescue that was not fertilized had significantly higher broadleaf weed populations than turf not fertilized with any Nitrogen.'

Fact is, Nitrogen is one of your best weapons for whacking Weeds.

And you should remember that if you use Corn Gluten Meal as a pre-emergent, it will slow-release the best Nitrogen money
can buy all summer long.

Researchers in the University of Illinois study above also said: 'Even a low annual rate of Nitrogen fertilization can decrease broadleaf weed populations and reduce or ELIMINATE the need for herbicide control.'

Read what the Better Lawn and Grass Institute has to say about this:

www.turfgrasssod.org/lawninstitute/guide.html

They point out: 'Proper mowing, watering, and fertilizing practices develop a Lawn that needs less chemicals to control Weed, insect, and disease problems.'

Mow right and you mow those Weeds into the ground.  Mowing WAKES UP your Grass.  That's a Grass that's strong. Stronger than Weeds.  Besides, Weeds HATE when you mow.  Chopping off the top of a Weed is like a punch in the stomach to the Weed. Mowing off the tips of your Grass is like giving them a massage.  Great for roots.  Headache for the Weeds.

Scientists at University of California at Davis do research on Weeds all the time.  One fact you'll see them point out over and over:  'No single height is best for all turfgrasses... Each Grass species will be healthier and have a deeper root system the higher the Grass is mowed.'  See the whole post at their website:

http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/pdf/8006.pdf

University of Illinois did another test, also posted at their website:

www.turf.uiuc.edu/research/summaries/1994/94_3.1.pdf#search='university%20test%20mowing%20height').

They planted a plot with Tall Fescue, a cool season Grass you may be considering that is usually used for Lawns with a strong stomach.  The researchers found that WEEDS did best when the Fescue was mowed at 1 to 2 inches.  'Crabgrass populations increased as mowing height decreased...'

Got that?

Weeds are low on the ground.  They need light like everybody else.  But thick, tall Grass all over the place keeps Sunlight from getting to the Weeds.  And the thick, tall Grass gets more.  Keeping it not only thick and tall, but Weed-less!  Best height for Fescue and Bluegrass is around 2 1/2 to 3 inches, because it's IMPOSSIBLE for Crabgrass to take over a Lawn with Grass that tall.

How do you like THEM apples, Bev?

During Summer Drought and Heat spells, mow your Grass a half inch higher.

So you see, just mowing carefully will get rid of lots of Weeds.  Most Weeds.  But you have to know what you're doing.

See, you really do have all the tools you need here to create the Lawn of your dreams.  First step:  Mow like there's no tomorrow.  It is CRITICAL that you make ABSOLUTELY SURE NONE of those Weeds make Seeds.  Dandelions, dig those babies out of the ground one by one and make a nice big Salad out of them for dinner.  This is the season for Weeds to grow like crazy and multiply.

And get your soil tested.

Then in the Fall, order your new Grass.  No chemicals.  Sow (or you can Sod the Lawn instead for an instant fresh start) and you shall reap!  First thing in the spring, down goes the CGM.  And you're in business.  A soil test will tell you if you need to add anything -- odds are, your classy Connecticut soil is just perfect as is.

I think that probably says it all.  Any questions?

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: You say, order your grass and sow in the fall:
1.  What type of prep should I perform before applying the seed?  I assume the seed comes with recommended coverage (i.e. lbs/sq ft)?
2.  Where would you recommend getting soil tested? Although I appreciate the "classy Connecticut soil" comment, I am afraid our soil does not live up to such a standard.

I can't thank you enough for your information and for your "writing style".
Thanks in advance,
Bev

Answer
For five-star Soil, get your soil tested at the University of Connecticut.  There is a modest fee for this and you get TONS of great information from soil research people in a laboratory:

http://www.canr.uconn.edu/plsci/extensionfaculty.html

They will analyze your soil and issue a prescription for fixing it.  If you tell me what the test says, I'll explain everything.

Meantime, MOW like the dickens.  You DO NOT want any of those Weeds to go to seed.  THAT would be a disaster.

Later, Rototill coarsely, and remove the debris -- including the Weeds (which should be composted) -- then incorporate any Lime, Composted Manure or other Organic amendments recommended in your soil test, and you will have a great beginning for the pretty new Seeds you select.

The sowing rates for Seed vary depending on the Grass you pick out.  Remember that Bluegrass Seed is VERY tiny and packs a lot more Seed into a pound than some others.  Trick of the trade: When the package arrives, stick it in the freezer for a few days.  It will germinate a little faster that way.  Store unused Seed in the freezer.

Thanks very much for your compliments.  They make me very happy.

Keep me posted.  Any more questions, please let me know.