Question
We live in Deltona, FL (central Florida) and have very sandy soil.    When we recently had some palm trees put in, the landscaper told us we would definitely need to fertilize our trees because we have such poor soil.  Anyhow, we have bahia grass and used a Scotts plus 2 weed and feed on it in the spring.  It got rid of the weeds but that was it.  Then we tried a totally organic (smelled like cow manure) on the grass and it did nothing. We then used Sta-Green Xtended season long fertilizer and the grass looked great for about a month.  Then we recently got a lot of rain and we started noticing some yellowing patches in a mostly sun, part shade area of the yard around one of the newly fertilized and planted palm trees (planted and fertilized about 2 months ago).  Nothing has turned brown or died yet, just turned yellow.  We asked about it and they said we should fertilize the tree again.  We did and haven't noticed any improvement.  We had a 17 inch rain deficit last year and had a dry spring this year as well, would that make come into play?  What would your recommend?

Answer
Bahiagrass ('Paspalum Notatum' to botanists) is most famous for its drought tolerance.  Thanks to its major root system, Bahia needs less water than any other Warm Season Grass.  Roots dive deep underground and can stretch a full 8 to 10 feet in places.

Although it's considered a 'low maintenance' turfgrass, in high season, Bahiagrass needs LOTS of mowing (at the 3 inch mark).  Still, it needs VERY LITTLE Nitrogen -- the recommended ANNUAL rate is a mere 1 lb per 1000 sq ft.

Bahia is also fairly disease- and insect-proof.  Note that HEALTHY Bahia is Light Green.  It darkens -- temporarily -- if you dose it with excessive amounts of Nitrogen.  Make sure you are looking at Yellow Grass, NOT Light Green Grass.  

What could possibly go wrong with a Bahia Lawn?

Plenty.

One: 'Low tolerance to many weed control post-emergence herbicides,' notes the Seedland website.  Yes, That would include Weed and Feed, my friend.

Not that Scotts would tell you that.  They have plenty of warnings on the Weed and Feed bag.  It's just that 'low tolerance' to Weed and Feed is not the same as being KILLED by Weed and Feed, which DOES happen to the Grasses on their list, to wit:  'Do not use on St. Augustinegrass, floratam, dichondra, lippia, carpetgrass or bentgrass. Do not apply to flowers, shrubs, fruit or vegetable plants.'

Sounds like you are not sure how to handle this sandy soil situation, Wendy.  I wonder if your brief 'totally organic' exercise was guided by a salesperson with a cash register.  'Totally organic' is your answer.  You can't just run out, though, and buy anything that says it is Organic and use it and expect to get the results you want.  If you go on a diet, Wendy, do you run out and buy a lot of diet food?  Of course not!  Losing weight is not about eating a lot of diet food.  Organic gardening is not all about using a lot of organic fertilizer.  And I don't blame you for being turned off by the cow manure experience.  Just be glad they didn't have a special on Fish Emulsion Fertilizer.

Let's get back to your Bahiagrass problems.

Problem Two: Seedland says Bahia is 'Susceptible to lack of iron, causing yellow color in Spring and Fall.'

That wouldn't be a problem on YOUR Lawn, would it?

Excuse me while I clear my throat.

OK.  Problem Three, Bahiagrass is 'not suitable for high PH soils.'  High pH soil is Alkaline, in case you're wondering. Since you did not get a soil test this year we do not know if you have a high pH or a low pH.  But file that thought for future reference.

Last, Problem Four, the vigor of Bahia in July and August.  'It is a prolific grower and thus can require mowing every 5-7 days during summer growth months and its course look.'  (By the way, I know all about fertilizing Palm Trees.  Ask me a question in the Fertilizer department and I'll go into it.)

Since Bahiagrass is the ultimate waterless Grass, your low rainfall is probably not the cause of the yellow fever you observe.  It's probably caused by:

1. Your sandy soil and
2. Your Scotts treatment.

Since you're not going to use any more Scotts, let's focus on your soil.

It's important for you to get a Soil Test, Wendy.  It's important for everyone, but it's even MORE important for you, because your area as I understand it is a very new community, with lots of new construction, and a very complex soil structure that is right now a total mystery.  You know it's Sandy.  But what's the pH?  Soils in the Florida are packed with Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) that built up over millions of years.  The soil is described as 'calcareous'. Soil will become calcareous through long-term watering from the Florida aquifer. Florida calcareous soils are alkaline (have pH values greater than 7) because of the presence of calcium carbonate (CaCO3).  CaCO3 is used A LOT in Forida especially by Orange and Lemon Tree growers.  CaCO3 affects use of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), magnesium (Mg), potassium (K), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), and iron (Fe). Soil pH affects the rates of several reactions involving N and efficiency of N use by plants.  Get a soil test asap.  If you need the contact info rsvp.