QuestionWe had a new lawn put in about 6 weeks ago. Right now, I have mowed the lawn a least 3 times. I have a lot weeds throughout. How can I control the weeds without destroying the new grass? I live in Pennsylvania. Thanks
AnswerFirst rule: Mow, mow, mow your Lawn. It's one of the best things you can do to wipe out Weeds.
That's important. Why? Because right now is PRIME TIME for Weeds. It's SIESTA TIME for Cool Season Grasses in Pennsylvania.
You didn't mention what kind of Grass you are growing, but the average Cool Season Grass grows best mowed at 3 inches. That keeps Weeds from gaining strength. They depend on light to generate energy. Mow, then go out and mow again -- and KEEP THE CLIPPINGS down to help shade the Weeds and return Nitrogen to the soil.
While you're doing this, bear in mind that most of those Weeds are Annuals. All you have to do is keep them from flowering and going to seed, and they won't be back next year.
One other reason: Weeds HATE it when you Mow. Grass LOVES the way a Mowing feels. Mowing OFTEN is a great way to get your Grass thicker and your Weeds weaker.
Second rule: Fertilize. Not too much. Just once, with a good, organic Nitrogen fertilizer. Because Nitrogen is another secret of a Weed-free Lawn.
This is in addition to keeping the clippings on the Lawn while you're mow, mow, mowing.
Milorganite is a great fertilizer, slow release and steady. Bloodmeal and Alfalfa are organic and terrific. These state of the art fertilizers build up all the right things in your soil. They make it a great place to grow. They're they building blocks of ultra-soil.
University of Illinois tested Nitrogen fertilizer on Tall Fescue Grass:
www.turf.uiuc.edu/research/summaries/1994/94_3.1.pdf#search='university%20test%20mowing%20height'
And they found: 'Even a low annual rate of Nitrogen fertilization can decrease broadleaf weed populations and reduce or ELIMINATE the need for herbicide control.'
See that?
There's something else you can do. Stock up on Corn Gluten Meal pre-emergent Weedkiller very early next Spring 2008.
And then, when your new Grass is just beginning to stir, and the Forsythia is turning out that yellow wash all over the block, get out the spreader and throw down the Corn Gluten. It needs a dry period to be most effective so watch those instructions carefully. The timing is critical. You need to get new Weed Seeds just as they are germinating. And with Corn Gluten you will not need any further Nitrogen fertilizing for the season.
Mow carefully, correctly, and your weed population will be ELIMINATED. No fuss. No muss. And so very GREEN.
There's a whole science behind Corn Gluten Meal. This is not Cornmeal. It's Corn Gluten Meal, a biological interruptor of germinating Seeds. It stops Weeds from germinating. Then it decomposes and feeds your Grass. The Robins will be VERY happy to live near your house.
Mow, fertilize, treat with pre-emergent. Piece of cake.
The Better Lawn and Grass Institute
(www.turfgrasssod.org/lawninstitute/guide.html) points out: 'Proper mowing, watering, and fertilizing practices develop a Lawn that needs less chemicals to control Weed, insect and disease problems. This is particularly true when you have established your lawn with improved Grass varieties.'
Now many people would tell you to use a bunch of concentrated Fertilizers and toxic Chemicals to get rid of Weeds on your beautiful new Green Lawn. That is a BIG MISTAKE!
Because there is something else we don't like about them: they generate THATCH.
How?
By destroying all those microbes living in your soil. You NEED micro flora and fauna in our soil to feed the Nitrogen cycle. You NEED Earthworms and other organisms to build healthy soil and grow beautiful Grass. So those chemicals are of no use whatsoever as you can see, unless you are a stockholder.
Fertilize with your Milorganite tomorrow. Happy mowing.
Thanks for writing.