Question
QUESTION:
I live in Fuquay Varina, NC. This is just outside of Raleigh for those who may be wondering. My fescue his slowly being taken over by wild bermuda. I have been told that this is really hard almost impossible to get rid of. My friend, a landscaper, advised me to go ahead and bite the bullet and overseed my fescue with bermuda seed. I plan on seeding the back yard now and in the spring early summer of next year sod the front. I was told to set the mower on the lowest setting and cut the grass. Loosen up any bare spots before putting the seed down. Should apply any loose top soil in the bare areas? I was told then to water for 10 to 14 days.  How long each day?  When are the best times? Does this sound right? Will the bermuda actually choke out the fescue and take over the yard? How long might this take? 2 years 3 years? Any help or tips would be appreciated. Thanks, in advance!


ANSWER: The project sounds reasonable.  Good advice so far.
Bermuda will grow into the bare areas, leaving fescue where it is established.  Since Bermuda will take fertilizer well among summer grasses, you can favor it with late spring fertilization, about 1 pound per thousand sq. ft. per month the first year May through August.
Fescue may be sprayed with Roundup or a glysophate generic herbicide in the winter, before the temperature is too cold to allow growth.  The same with surviving weeds in the winter.  Pre-emergents will help to control competition in the first few years and in spring.
After establishment, the Bermuda should need little attention.  Though it can get some turf diseases, it is, generally, very durable.
The disadvatage is at the border of lawn and garden.  Bermuda will invade plant beds and gravel drives aggressively and need pruning back several times a year.  Few borders will restrain it.
With luck, one year should provide a nice lawn.
Water as you see the ground needs it.  With an existing lawn cover, moisture should be protected from evaporating better than with a new lawn.  Evening waterings give better soil penetration.  You can water each area once every two to three days for an half hour.  Since the weather is cool and rainy now, not much water will be needed.  Next week, it should become drier.  My test is if the lawn feels damp while walking on it each morning at 10 AM.  If not, water that evening.
Temps in the mid 80's are best for Bermuda.
Best of luck.


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QUESTION: Tom,

I put down my Bermuda Seed and a starter fertilizer to go along with it.  I was wondering what the best time of day for watering is?  I have been told to water twice a day for the next 10 days.  Currently I am watering the lawn around 6:30 or 7 about when most of the back yard is shaded by my house.  Should the other application be in the morning or should it be right around lunch time?  Normally when I go outside in the morning the ground is pretty wet/damp.  I really want these seeds to take and with the temps (90+) drying everything out I know I will need to water.  I hope my chances of the seed taking is good.  Thanks for all your help.
ANSWER: Sounds like you are doing everything correctly.  I would water in the evening, as the water penetrates the soil and acts as a reserve during the day.  With recent rains, residual moisture is plentiful.
Bermuda will do well in the summer.  I would not worry about it germinating.  There are millions of seed per pound in hulled or unhulled.  Once germinated, it will take off and cover, especially with the fertilizer you applied.
Temperatures are fine.  Its the average that counts.
Waiting for germination takes faith.  Each year, I wait out my bluegrass overseeding with doubt for a month.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: One last question Tom and I will leave you alone.  With as hot as it has been I have been watering twice a day.  Once at 11:30 and again at 6:45 each time 45 minutes.  Would it be more beneficial to water once at 6:45 for 1 hour and 30 minutes or just continue what I'm doing.  I am watering about 3000 square feet.  Sorry for all the questions.........just paranoid I guess.  By the way, where do you live?  Thanks in advance!
David
ANSWER: No problem, David.  I receive a lot of satisfaction from my lawn and wish to help others do the same.
If you can afford the watering schedule you describe and conservation restrictions have not cut you off, keep at it.  The nightly rains of the past few days have precluded need for it.  But, unless there are fungus problems, no harm is done.
Pittsboro is home, neighbor.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Its me again Tom,  Quick Question.
I have started to notice a slight trace of germination in spots where i put top soil down on a few of the bare spots in the lawn.  I have not noticed any germination where there is actually grass.  Is it more common for those areas to take a little longer than the spots with fresh top soil?  It seems like to me this would be the case especially since germination can take up to 21 days and the top soil is looser than the ground the established fescue is growing.  Also, my neighbor seeded at the same time and he had huge bare spots in his yard primarily because he doesn't care that much about his yard.  Basically he just listened to what I told him and thats what he did.  Well guess what, he has slight traces of germination all through the loose soil.  Go figure.....  I told my wife, I'm out there busting it and he is like whatever but I bet his will do just fine if not better.  Thats how it usually works =).  I have always bagged my grass but you still get somewhat of a thatch build up at the soil level.  I would think this would help to keep the seedlings moist.  Hopefully they will germinate in these areas as well.  I'll stop rambling now.  Thanks for your help.

Answer
David,
Grass seed likes three or four things to germinate:
moisture
contact with the soil
light
nutrients
In the areas with grass or detritous (clippings, etc.), the seed may or may  not germinate.  It is a good idea to aerate the lawn, creating small holes where the seed can touch the soil.  Not important to have deep holes.
Keep fertilizer to a minimum on newly seeded areas.  With Bermuda, you can topdress with .5 to 1.0 lbs/1000 sq. feet after establishment every three to four weeks to force growth.  Stop well before a killing frost.
Don't worry about your neighbor. At some point, your lawn will look great.
Best of luck.