Question
How to rid my lawn of this bad grass? If I kill out my lawn[which I have tried in spots]the seeds seam to survive.When I mow I use a vac attached directly to the deck, but the seeds still get trough.This grass seams to produce new seeds in between each mowing.I aerate and reseed each fall.This has been a problem for 3yrs. since I brought in 300yds. of new dirt and its over taking my lawn
       PLEASE HELP,
        Gary

Answer
Hi Gary;
It's a weed grass, rather than a grass you want.
I have never heard of that grass, but the way you describe it growing and surviving sounds like it is weed grass on the same order as crabgrass, johnson grass, dallis grass, etc, all the grasses you DON'T want.
When I switched to organics, the crabgrass, johnson grass, and dallis grass was harder to get rid of than the clover and other less hardy weeds, but by the third year, they did not come back again either.
The way it worked, buy mid summer after I started the organics in the spring, there were no weeds of any kind. the next spring, a few dandelionc came back and some of the weed grasses, but about half as many as the years before. They started to die out right away, and in a few weeks, there were none to see. The next spring, only a few came back, and within about a month theyt were died out, and have never come back since.
The wind is still blowing in those seeds, because some of my neighbors still get them, including the neighbor who swears by Scott's weed and feed and puts it down every fall, and gets weeds every spring. He doesn't get very many weeds, but all I use is sugar, and I don't get any at all.
The way organics work is, they continually enrich and improve the soil. Weeds like poor soil and will not thrive in rich soil, so when they soil is rich enough, the weeds , if they even come up, die out right away, before they even get big enough to see.
Sugar does NOT kill weeds or anything else. All it does is nourish the beneficial microbes that do all the work, enriching the soil. You can also use dry molasses for this, but personally, I get better results with the sugar, and it costs less because it takes over twice as much dry molasses, and they cost about the same per pound.
You keep chemicals off your yard and make a healthy, safe enviornment for the micro-organisms and the beneficial critters like toads and lizarfds to live, and they do all the work for you. The weeds don't thrive in the rich soil, so they die out and you just have pretty grass, so you dopn't need weed killers. The toads and lizards eat the grubs, ants, sow bugs, aphids and all the other insects ou don't want,so you don't need insecticides.
The rich soil nourishes the grass, so you don't need chemical fertilizers. Chemicals do NOT enrich the soil. They feed the vegetation, including the weeds, then they wear out and you have to reapply them.
You can give the micro-organisms a boost by top dressing with good compost you make yourself out of waste vegetation like, trimmings from shrubs and flowers, and raw veggie and fruit peels, coffee grounds, tea leaves etc from the kitchen.
You can buy alfalfa meal and lava sand. Those are both full of nutrition that boosts the nutrients in the soil, and helps enrich it faster, and boosts the growth of flowers, grass, shrubs etc.
Lava sand is sold at most nurseres, and even Home Depot and Walmart, but I have to go to a feed store for alfalfa meal.
For the best organic fungicide, apply 10 pounds Horticultural Corn Meal per 1000 sq.ft.
Here is the program I have used for the last 10 years or so.
--------------------------

You will constantly improve your soil if you go on a totally organic program, and don't use any chemicals at all.
I have beenm on such a program for the last 9 to 10 years, after breaking my back and ruining my body trying to maintain a decent lawn, with only mediocre results.
the organics has freed me from about 90% of the physical work, about that much of the expense, and the results are a think, beautiful yard with no weeds or harmful insects.
Man!!! Wish I had known all this 50 years ago !
The corn clutem meal is an organic product.
If you use organics, and then use chemicals, you will cancel out the organics.
Chemical fertilizers kill all the beneficial microbes, nematodes and other beneficial insects and critters that work around the clock improving your soil.
Beneficial microbes enrich the soil. Chemicls do NOT.
If you put a little too muchj chemical products on the lawn, it will burn your grass, and do a lot of other damage.
If you put too much organics on it, all you do is waste a little time and money.
Sugar does absolutely nothing but nourish the beneficial micrebes. THEY do the work.
Weeds will not grow in rich soil. If they cme up, they will start to die out right away.
The first time I use sugar was in the spring. I had not put any chemicals on the yard since the fall feeding, so they were all worn out of the soil.
I had a lawn about 50% full of dandelions, crabgrass, johnson grass, clover, dollar weed and some other shallow rooted weeds like chickweed etc.
a couple of weeks after I put down the sugar and watered it in, I had about half as many weeds. Nobody had pulled a weed or anything. My husband had just mowed.
I went nuts, like a school of sharks in a feeding frenzy, and ran out and bought more sugar, put it down and waterewd it in.
A couple more mowings, and there were so few weeds. In a few more werks they were all gone.
The next spring about half as many weeds as before came up, but in a few weeks they were gone.
All I had done was the sugar in the spring, and I did that again in the fall.
I used baking soda disolved in water for black spot on my roses and powdery mildew n my crepe mytrtles. That works much better then the chemical fungicides I had used before.
I started getting a nice herd of lizards, toads and grass snakes in my yard.
I had a BIG grub problem every year. I haven't had that since, nor do I have those nasty tent catapillars dropping on my head from the trees.
I see lizards running in the trees and along the fence. I never see the grass snakjes, which is fine with me. I seldon see a toad, but they are all there.
Sugar; I use 4 or 5 pounds per 1000 sq.ft. I just broadcast it by hand, and water it in well. If you spill a blob in one spot, no problem. No burning or other damage.

Watering; I always water to a depth of at least 6 inches. Deep watering like that encourages a deep root growth. That protects from heat, cold and drought damage, and prevents thatch. I water with soaker hoses, and run them till the water is close to the edge and is about to start running off the yard. then I turn it off and wait an hour or so for it to soak in, and turn it on again. I keep doing that until it is wet down to a depth of 6 inches at least. Even here in our Texas heat, I water only once a week, unless it stays well above 100 for a week or more, which it sometimes does. then I look at the grass, and if my St. Augustine is folded up, lengthwise, I know it needs water. It folds the blades up to reduce the area exposed to evaporation. Burmuda, when it gets thirsty, bends it's little blades a little, like it is bowing.
My earthworms and cock roaches etc tunnel through the soil, and that keeps it aerated. Their castings add nourishment. Cockroaches are beneficial. They normally live in the soil and feed on other harmful insects. We put down pesticides, and kill their food supply, so they come in our houses to get food and hide from the pesticides.
I use fresh rosemary to keep them out of my house.

Baking soda disolved in water, about 2 TABLESPOONS per gallon of water, sprayed on top and underneath all the leaves, prevent molds and fungus on plants. You can also use it for fungus in the soil, or you can apply agricultural corn meal and water that in. About 10 pounds per 1000 sq.ft.

Corn gluten meal is an organic fertilizer and weed killer.
It won't interfere with the sugar.
None of the organics calcel each other out.
Alfalfa meal is another good food to add. Just sprinkle it on in about the same thickness the sugar goes on, and water. It is full of nutrients. So is lava sand. Yopu can add it to the top of the soil, dig it into the soil, or add it when you are adding soil, or putting soil in a comntainer for a plant.
Alfalfa meal, as well as generally nourishing the soil, helps promote larger and more blooms in blooming plants and house plants.
You can also make a tea of it for foliar feeding or for watering house plants.
Put 1 cup alfalfa meal in 5 gallons of water and let steep overnight. Still and use to water plants, or strain it and put it in a garden sprayer for foliar feeding.  Be sure, if you strain it, to dump the dregs on the soil somewhere, it is still full of nutrients.
You probably won't need more fertilizert than that. I didn't use anything but sugar for about 8 or 9 years, and last spring, I leartned about the alfalfa meal and lava sand, so I use them.
If you have more questions, write to me.
I am very happy to share what I have learned, and am learning.
Charlotte