Question
Hello, We use Rebel Grass Seed for our lawn. Does this grass grow seeds at this time of year. I don't know if it's weeds or the grass growing something. Please help.
Alexandria, Va.

Answer
West Virginia University Extension Service posts a photo of a Tall Fescue speciment gone to seed:

http://www.caf.wvu.edu/~forage/tallfesc.htm

Rebel is the name of a variety of Tall Fescue turfgrass.  The Pennington Seed Co tried to trademark the name but lost on appeal.  I'm not sure which Rebel you have, but I don't think it matters -- so long as you have Tall Fescue, the grass would look the same.

So let me ask you this: How tall is this Grass you are referring to that might be weeds?  Tall Fescue has to be mowed on schedule.  Have you been mowing on schedule?  Because if you mow like you're supposed to, Barbara, you don't have to worry about weeds.  To quote the West Virginians above, 'Under good management, tall fescue is deep-rooted and forms a dense sod.'  Mowing right is part of that 'good management'.

Tall Fescue is a bunching grass -- slow growing, takes forever to establish, especially in cold soil; it's easily damaged as a seedling by drought and/or summer heat waves; and it is easily overrun by weeds.  Sow it too deep, and it will never see the light of day, ever.

You should give your new Tall Fescue its first mowing when it reaches six inches tall -- because a good, solid root system is developed by then, and the Tall Fescue won't be crushed under your lawnmower.  After that,

Now, if you are growing your Tall Fescue in hard Clay, it will never perform up to its potential.  Here's a little test for you to do one morning when you go outside:  Take a screwdriver and push it into your soil 5 DAYS AFTER IT RAINS.  If the metal screwdriver can get down a few inches, you can bet your Grass is going to be moaning and groaning the whole time.  Some people will tell you that aerating or rototilling is the best way to keep Clay from compacting and turning hard as a rock.  But that's not true.  The best way to keep Clay friable and Grass-friendly is to give it a lot of Organic Matter.  Not sand.  Organic Matter -- leaves, Compost, Manure, Humus, Compost Tea.  You can read more about managing Tall Fescue on the Oregon State University website(http://forages.oregonstate.edu/is/tfis/enmain.cfm?PageID=285).

Purdue University's Cooperative Extension website posting, 'Lawn Care/Basics for Homeowners-Lawn Care/Mowing', explains why(http://www.purdue.edu/dp/envirosoft/lawn/src/mowing2.htm#Height): 'Each turf species has a characteristic mowing height tolerance range.  Mowing at heights above this range result in poor quality turf and where scalping occurs below the desired mowing height range.'

Some very scientific data says you should mow your Tall Fescue 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches.  During Summer Drought and Heat spells, mow a half inch higher to give the blades more cells for photosynthesis.  Purdue points out that ALL Grass benefits from the taller mowings.  The longer blade allows more Photosynthesis, which means more energy for deep root growth and healthier, disease resistant, drought-tolerant Grass.

If you think you have Crabgrass that is going to seed, there's something you should do asap: Get your hands FAST on some Corn Gluten Meal Pre-emergent Weedkiller.  It's organic, and it's foolproof -- IF you put it down at JUST the right time.  Don't let that window close on you!  You DO NOT want to be staring at thousands of weeds growing all over your Tall Fescue.  If you need it, give me your zipcode, and I will look up the closest retailer of a Corn Gluten Meal based product.  rsvp!