QuestionHi..I bought a new product to rid of weeds..After applying, my lawn (3 acres) began to turn yellow and burned..Everyday it is dying out..We were told that it contained a "grass" killer too..Help what can I do to preserve my lawn for the rest of the summer? Sadden by killing my lawn..
AnswerHi Anne;
I wish I could tell you a magic bullety that would fix i, but a killed lawn is just killed.
that is the problem with chemicals.
I struggled with chemical lawn products for over 40 years, think using organics meant you had to embeace weeds along with the other "natural things? in your grass.
NOT TRUE!!!
I switched to organics about 10 years ago, and I have a gorgeous, thick, weedfree and harmful insect free lawn of St.Augustine that greens up faster in the spring by a couple of weeks, and stays green a few weeks longer in the fall.
I spend less on lawn products in one year than I used to spend per month, and I work less than 10 percent as much to maintain it.
It really is true that chemicals CAUSe problems, they don't fix them.
If you don't apply insecticides for grubs and some other pests at just the right time, they don't work. If you get a little too much fertilizer it burns your lwan, and if you get too little, you get poor results.
with the organics, if you don't have time, or your back hurts too much to get thiungs down at the right time, do it the next week, or the next month.
I dobn't have bothersome insects because my toads, lizards and grass snakes eat them all. There are never enough of them at one time to do any appreciable damage.
My lizards keep ALL the aphids off my roises, something that spraying with insecticides and using rose food with systemic insecticide didn't do well. I still had aphid dmage in almost every rose when it opened up.
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It is possible if you flush the soil with enough water to wash out all the weed killer, and get it out of the soil, that some of the grass that is not yet dead will survive.
That depends on what kind of weed killer you used.
If it was Roundup, I don't think there is a chance.
Water until the soil is soaked down to about 8 to 10 inches deep.
A soaker hose or hand held is better, or at least aprinklers that don't spray high into the air.
Water till it styarts to run off, then turn it off and let it soak in for an hour or so, and then turn it on again. Keep alternating with watering and letting it soak in, until the yard is very soft to walk on, and you feel like you are walking on a sponge. Let that soak in for a few days, and then do the same thing again.
That should wash any product out of the soil.
If there is any of that stuff left in the soil, any sod you put down will promptly die.
If you can get all that junk out of your soil, then yopu could lay down sod and it shopuld have time to establish a lawn before too long.
I would strongly advise you to switch to organics.
If you spill a lot of those things when you are applying them, the most harm you do is waste a little money.
It sounds strange, asnd I thought it was totally crazy, when I read it, but the columnist is Texas leading authority on organics, and conducts test labs all over the country, testing and proving or disporoving products etc.
He advised to use dry molasses, but if you couldn't get it, table sugar would be a suitable substitute.
I couldn't find dry molasses, so I used 4 to 5 pounds sugar per 1000 sq.ft.
I had a lwan that had about 40 to 50% weeds of all kinds, including crabgrass, and dandelions.
In a couple of weeks there were fewer weeds, and nobody had pulled a single weed.
Sugar does absolutely NOTHING but nourish the beneficial microbes that work continually enriching and improving your soil.
Weeds like poor soil, and will not thrive in rich soil.
It is very simple, make rich soil, and weeds cannpt live long in your soil.
Each spring there were fewer weeds, until about the third or fourth year, no weeds came up in the spring at all, and I have been weedfree every since.
Chemical fertilizers and other chemical products kill all the micro-organisms that will do all the wortk the chemicals do, at a fraction of the price.
You just have to keep a healthy enviornment for them, and the grass, flowers and shrubs and fruits and vegetables will do fine.
In that chemical free enviornment, the beneficial critters like toads and lizards can live and multiply, and they feed on the harmful insects.
Deep watering encourages the roots to grow deep, and a deep root system helps protect against heat, cold and drought damage, and prevents thatch.
Earthworms and other beneficial insects tunnel through the soil, keeping it aewrated and that prevents thatch.
That happens when the roots come close to the surface to get water ( from shallow watering), and they die and trap other debris, and that forms the waterproof thatch pad.
If you would like a copy of the organic program I follow, just write me. I would be glad to give it to you.
Charlotte