Question
Charlotte,  I used a cheap product on a bluegrass yard (Twin Pine 25-3-4)  and I
have burn spots all over it.  My question, will the grass return, how long until,
and what can I do to expedite it?  I am considering a whole lot of Revive but
since I already screwed up I'll await your instruction!  Thanks!

Answer
Hi Christina;
First, I advise ANYBODY to stop using ANY chemical lawn products.
It is true, what they say. Chemicals CAUSE problems, they don't solve them.
You can speed up getting out the fertilizer by flushing the soil with water to wash the chemicals down and out below the root level.
Chances are that burned grass is dead, and will not come back.
However, the surrounding grass should be fine, and taking care of it should fill in the damaged spots soon.
About 10 years ago, I switched to an organic program.
I always thought you had to do a lot more and spend a lot more to use organics,. and have a lawn that looked like a meadow, rather than a grassy lawn.
NOT SO!!!
I have the best lawn I have ever had, with less than 10% as much work, and a LOT less money spent, and no weeds or harmful insects.
Weeds like poor soil and won't thrive in rich soil.
Organics works continually enriching and improving your soil. All you have to do is make a healthy enviornment for the micro-organisms and lawn critters to live in.
Chemicals kill them, and fertilizers are maybe the most offensive of these.
Lizards, grass snakes, and toads will come to live in your yard, when there is no longer a threat of chemicals that kill them. They eat insects.
Toads love slugs and snails, and they eat other insects too. Lizards eat all the aphids off my rose bushes, and they also eat ants, all sorts of insects I used to spray once a month to try to control, and had many more insects damaging my plants than I ever see now.
Every rose that used to open had aphid damage. I haven't seen aphid damage on a rose in 8 or 9 years.
Since I started the organics, my Asthma is 90% better, and I don't have to worry about my grandchildren or my dogs getting something that will harm them.
All I have used for the last 10 years or so, until last year, was sugar in the spring, fall, and sometimes in mid-summer. Baking soda disolved in water for fungus and mildews, and deep watering to develope a deep root system.
Sugar does absolutely NOTHING but nourish the beneficial microbes that will work round the clock, improving your soil.
As the soil gets richer, the weeds start to die out.
The weeds I had were crabgrass, johnson grass, dandelions, clover, dollar weed, wild violets, chickweed, poison ivy and some others I couldn't identify.
A few weeks after putting the first sugar application down, and watering it in, I started seeing fewer weeds. My yard was about 50% weeds before.
Each time my husband mowed, I saw fewer weeds, until in a few months there were no more for the rest of the growing season.
The next spring some weeds came up, but far fewer than the year before, and in a couple of months they were gone too.
About the third year, no weeds came up at all, and I haven't had weeds since.
Last year I started using alfalfa meal and lava sand. They both add a lot of nutrients to your soil.
We always leave the grass clippimgs to compost and feed the soil.
Water deeply, to a depth of at least 6 inches. This developes a deep root system to help protect against heat, cold and drought damage.

Here is an answer I gave one questioner, and I put it in a file so I could copy and paste it.
It is the program I am using, some information I have learned but have not necessarily tried yet.
---------------------------------
You will constantly improve your soil if you go on a totally organic program, and don't use any chemicals at all.
I have beenm on such a program for the last 9 to 10 years, after breaking my back and ruining my body trying to maintain a decent lawn, with only mediocre results.
the organics has freed me from about 90% of the physical work, about that much of the expense, and the results are a think, beautiful yard with no weeds or harmful insects.
Man!!! Wish I had known all this 50 years ago !
The corn clutem meal is an organic product.
If you use organics, and then use chemicals, you will cancel out the organics.
Chemical fertilizers kill all the beneficial microbes, nematodes and other beneficial insects and critters that work around the clock improving your soil.
Beneficial microbes enrich the soil. Chemicls do NOT.
If you put a little too muchj chemical products on the lawn, it will burn your grass, and do a lot of other damage.
If you put too much organics on it, all you do is waste a little time and money.
Sugar does absolutely nothing but nourish the beneficial micrebes. THEY do the work.
Weeds will not grow in rich soil. If they cme up, they will start to die out right away.
The first time I use sugar was in the spring. I had not put any chemicals on the yard since the fall feeding, so they were all worn out of the soil.
I had a lawn about 50% full of dandelions, crabgrass, johnson grass, clover, dollar weed and some other shallow rooted weeds like chickweed etc.
a couple of weeks after I put down the sugar and watered it in, I had about half as many weeds. Nobody had pulled a weed or anything. My husband had just mowed.
I went nuts, like a school of sharks in a feeding frenzy, and ran out and bought more sugar, put it down and waterewd it in.
A couple more mowings, and there were so few weeds. In a few more werks they were all gone.
The next spring about half as many weeds as before came up, but in a few weeks they were gone.
All I had done was the sugar in the spring, and I did that again in the fall.
I used baking soda disolved in water for black spot on my roses and powdery mildew n my crepe mytrtles. That works much better then the chemical fungicides I had used before.
I started getting a nice herd of lizards, toads and grass snakes in my yard.
I had a BIG grub problem every year. I haven't had that since, nor do I have those nasty tent catapillars dropping on my head from the trees.
I see lizards running in the trees and along the fence. I never see the grass snakjes, which is fine with me. I seldon see a toad, but they are all there.
Sugar; I use 4 or 5 pounds per 1000 sq.ft. I just broadcast it by hand, and water it in well. If you spill a blob in one spot, no problem. No burning or other damage.

Watering; I always water to a depth of at least 6 inches. Deep watering like that encourages a deep root growth. That protects from heat, cold and drought damage, and prevents thatch. I water with soaker hoses, and run them till the water is close to the edge and is about to start running off the yard. then I turn it off and wait an hour or so for it to soak in, and turn it on again. I keep doing that until it is wet down to a depth of 6 inches at least. Even here in our Texas heat, I water only once a week, unless it stays well above 100 for a week or more, which it sometimes does. then I look at the grass, and if my St. Augustine is folded up, lengthwise, I know it needs water. It folds the blades up to reduce the area exposed to evaporation. Burmuda, when it gets thirsty, bends it's little blades a little, like it is bowing.
My earthworms and cock roaches etc tunnel through the soil, and that keeps it aerated. Their castings add nourishment. Cockroaches are beneficial. They normally live in the soil and feed on other harmful insects. We put down pesticides, and kill their food supply, so they come in our houses to get food and hide from the pesticides.
I use fresh rosemary to keep them out of my house.

Baking soda disolved in water, about 2 TABLESPOONS per gallon of water, sprayed on top and underneath all the leaves, prevent molds and fungus on plants. You can also use it for fungus in the soil, or you can apply agricultural corn meal and water that in. About 10 pounds per 1000 sq.ft.

Corn gluten meal is an organic fertilizer and weed killer.
It won't interfere with the sugar.
None of the organics calcel each other out.
Alfalfa meal is another good food to add. Just sprinkle it on in about the same thickness the sugar goes on, and water. It is full of nutrients. So is lava sand. Yopu can add it to the top of the soil, dig it into the soil, or add it when you are adding soil, or putting soil in a comntainer for a plant.
Alfalfa meal, as well as generally nourishing the soil, helps promote larger and more blooms in blooming plants and house plants.
You can also make a tea of it for foliar feeding or for watering house plants.
Put 1 cup alfalfa meal in 5 gallons of water and let steep overnight. Still and use to water plants, or strain it and put it in a garden sprayer for foliar feeding.  Be sure, if you strain it, to dump the dregs on the soil somewhere, it is still full of nutrients.
You probably won't need more fertilizert than that. I didn't use anything but sugar for about 8 or 9 years, and last spring, I leartned about the alfalfa meal and lava sand, so I use them.
If you have more questions, write to me.
I am very happy to share what I have learned, and am learning.
Charlotte