Question
QUESTION: I have received the results of my soil test, and it was not what I was expecting. Do you know how to interpret soil tests or do you know how to understand it?  The 'PH' is 5.5.  One of my neighbors said it requires that the PH be raised. There are several systems for that result, do you have one that you specifically like or are they all the same?  And also what is the result of sugar on the PH, will that change it at all?  I'm very interested in your opinions on these.
ANSWER: Hi Carlissa;
I don't test mine. I go by what my lants tell me, BUT,,,,,,,
I looked up the information.
Peers your soil is on the acid side.
Azaleas like acid, as do evergreens like cedars, junipers etc.
Above 7.0 is alkaline , below 7.0 is acid
At 5.5, that is not WAY too high. 7 is considered neutral.
Adding a little lime will raise it, but a little too much lime, and you will raise it too high.
That is why I don't mess with it. It is too easy to go too far.
Going on the total ogranic program will in time balance it out.
The ONLY thing the sugar will do is nourish the beneficial microbes that will work round the clock enriching your soil. It really doesn't take that much time to get all that organic stuff working for you.
As soon as tyhere are no artificial chemicals in your soil that is harmful to them, they will multiply and your soil will grow steadliy better.
The earthworms and other beneficial insects, tunneling through the soil keeps it aerated and prevents thatch. Their castings add nutrients to the soil.
Leaving the grass clippings when you mow will add nourishment. The grass clippings compost right there they fall.
If you add ANY chemical fertilizers, weed killers or insecticides, and most of the fungicides, you kill off those beneficial microbes and nematodes, and the lizards, toads and grass snakes that feed on the harmful insects.
Comcentrate on making rich soil by nourishing those banaficial microbes, nematodes and insects, and lawn critters, and all the other soil problems will get taken care of.
Water deeply, to a depth of at least 6 inches. Unless your soil is very sandy and drains too fast, you should be able to maintain your lawn, watering only once a week during the growing season, less during the rainy season.
If it rains 1 inch, then that supposedly wets to a depth of about 6 inches.
If you get a rain like that once a week, you shouldn't have to water more, excopt container plants or raised beds.
Watering deeply makes the roots grow deep, and that gets them down there so that when the top 3 or 4 inches of soil are dry, there is still moisture down where the roots are. It also protects against heat, cold ands drought damage, and prevents thatch.
When the temp gets up in the upper 80 and above, set the mower blades to cut the graass at 3 inches high. That extra height helps shade the soil from heat, and helps the grass hold water more.
Write anytime you feel I can help.

I took a bit of time here and did some searching.
I found this to be about the best information on the PH of soil , of the ones I looked at.
Go check out this and read up some here.

http://www.savvygardener.com/Features/soil_ph.html

Charlotte


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I appreciate your advice about rain temperatures watering etc., my question is about PH.  Thanks for the website called, "Savvy Gardener."  They do not mention sugar. I am wondering how your PH results are with the use of sugar on a longterm organic program.  Have you ever had a soil test done in your soil and what kind of results did you have?

Answer
Hi Carlissa;
read your feedback.
I don't know how I can explain it any better.
I told you what normal was, and was too acid and too alkaline was.
I told you how to change it.
I told you the sugar would not harm it, and I told you how little testing really helps.
Averaghe is 7.0.
Below is too acid, above it too alkaline.
I told you that adding things, when you have limited knowledge of those chemicals is dangerous to your soil and to you.
I am an expert in the field of gardening because of over 50 years experience, and because of reading and listening to articles by people who know much more than I know about the subject.
I am NOT a degreed Nurseryman, nor have I ever presented myself as one.
I am NOT a scientist, not have I claimed to be that.
I gave you an answer, and I told you that on an organic program the PH will balance itslf out to be correct.
I'm sorry, You need much more information than I, or anyone else on the board can give you.
Contact your County Agricultural Extension Agent.
That office can give you the answers you are looking for in regard to chemical gardening, and how to handle the PH, with chemiclas.
Unfortunately, they are educated to answer in regards to chemicals, they don't know much about organic gardening.
Charlotte


All the sugar does is feed the beneficial microbes. THEY do the soil enrichment, and that balances out the PH.
The organic GURU I follow because he has done more scientific testing for the last 40 years, and knows much more about what organics is all about, says to use dry molasses.
Well, when I first started, dry molasses was not available here, so I used sugar. He had said sugar would do if you couldn't get the dry molasses.
A couple years later, I could get dry molasses, so I used that.
Frankly, I liked the results I get with sugar better, and it is easier to use.
About 40 pounds of sugar costs about the same as a 40 pound bag of dry molasses, but it covers more.
I use 4 to 5 pounds sugar per 1000 sq.ft of lawn. You use 10 to 15 pounds dry molasses per 1000 sq.ft. of lawn.
I can pick up the sugar at thje grocery store and don't have to make a trip to a nursery to get it, and it weighs less, so it is easier for me to handle.
That is all.
Corn Gluten Meal is recommended by him as a good all round weed and feed.
I have not used it, because the 10 years my microbes etc have been working, my soil is perfectly balanced, so I don't need more boost.
On an organic program, eventually even a hard clay soil will turn to better soil, where otherwise you need to till in things to loosen it up.
It takes a few years to do it, but the organics just get everything started on a progressively improving situation, and after a time, it will all balance out well. The ph will balance, and everything will grow well.
For things that need more acid, it is better to add things, still organic things to add more acid.
To add a little acid, use cider vinegar.
I put about 1 teaspoon cider vinegar per gallon of water to water my indoor plants, and treat my azaleas to that about twice a month. Azaleas like a more acid soil, so do your evergreens like pines, cedars, junipers etc.
Really, the only time a lot of soil testing needs to be done, is when you are on a chemical rogram, because the chemicals damage the soil PH so much.
Charlotte