Question
QUESTION: Hi Long Island Gardener:
I received my soil analysis. Any fertilizer recommendations, application recommendations, etc? From the soil analysis I am beginning to see what you mean by homework.  It does seem alot! 4 applications of Lime before starting fertilizer?  Do I have that right? + still seed in Fall/ September?  Looking forward to the answers!

Lab said PH 4.4; Acidity (H) 9.6; C.E.C. 15.5; Percent Base Saturation K1.9%,MG10.2%,Ca25.5, H62.3%; Organic Matter 1.1%.  
Also test results Phosphorus is very high at 225, Potassium  is medium at 116, MG  is medium at 190, Ca is very low at 790, and Sulfur is medium at 19.  

Lab Soil Fertility Recommendations pounds per 1,000 sq ft:  Lime 200; Nitrogen 3.5; Potash 4; sulfur .35.  

Suggested Fertilizer Program per 1,000 sq ft:
1st: 10.0 fertilizer 10-5-20
2nd: 10.0 fertilizer 10-5-20
3rd: 8.0  fertilizer 21-3-7
said to put the 200lbs of lime per 1,000 sq ft at rate of 50lbs per application every 4-6 months. Then fertilize in Fall.

What do you think?  + what is the 10-5-20 fertilizer?
Thanks in advance
Lynn
ANSWER: Lynn, I apologize for the delayed response here -- these are some serious issues you have and I don't want to overwhelm you with a lot of technical stuff but I don't want to underwhelm you either.

I am also a little unclear with a few of your details -- the 9.6 Acidity does not look right to me with the 4.4 pH.

Your wild numbers for Phosphorous could be legitimate -- or did you use a spade to obtain your sample, obtaining only soil from the top layer?  That would skew your lab results.

Those Phosphorous numbers are possible -- often they come from megadoses of chemical fertilizer applied year after year after year.  Soil fertilized with poultry and livestock manure can build up to very high levels of available Phosphorus.  It is not unusual for someone to concentrate on the Nitrogen content of these fertilizers and ignore the Phosphorous.

I guess we know why your grass does not grow now.  And for the record, this explains why weeds would thrive in your soil -- most of our northeast weeds have evolved for acidic soil.

The most important piece of information on your soil test is the soil pH number.  It is the first thing you should correct because EVERYTHING ELSE depends on it.

NOTHING in that soil can take up Nutrients in a 4.4 pH.

The Phosphorous and Potassium numbers are less important than their "VERY HIGH" and "MEDIUM" analysis -- don't compare your numbers on these against anyone else's because labs use different methods for those tests.  It's the lab's conclusion that is critical here -- and VERY HIGH is about as extreme as it gets.

The "Organic Matter" 1.1% concentration is another critical number.  This is a very common reading -- a high reading might be 6%, a low reading could be a tenth of yours, so this reading is not extreme.  You should work on raising that number gradually.

But I repeat NOTHING is more important than raising your pH, if that is indeed what your report has found.  Leaching, acid rain, normal woodland compost, so many other factors contribute to an extreme pH reading.  Lime itself is not soluble and sits at the soil surface for quite a while.  Wait before applying any Nitrogen fertilizer (the first number in any fertilizer -- see below) -- NEVER mix Nitrogen fertilizer and Lime because you will basically vaporize the Nitrogen in doing so.

Gardenias and Hydrangeas and Blueberries will perform beautifully, but it is rare to have a green plant do more than eke out a basic existence in soil with that much acid.  Pelletized Lime and Dolomitic Aglime supply both Calcium -- which you need -- and Magnesium.   Some experts would consider the benefits of Gypsum, an option I rarely list.  It takes time?hange the pH -- so do this immediately.  Don't push it, be patient, you are adjusting, not sparking a revolution in the soil.

The 10-5-20 Fertilizer can be 10-0-0 and 0-5-0 and 0-0-20.

The first number is N for Nitrogen.

Second number is Phosphorous.

Third is Potassium/Potash.

"Renaissance 10-0-0" is a Corn Gluten product that will slow-release Nitrogen into your soil while improving the tilth and destroying germinating weed seeds.  It is the perfect choice for your spring fertilizing -- and must go down the week you see Forsythia blooming in your area, on dry soil.  Tricky, but worth it, and it won't break the bank.  That would be your Nitrogen fix for the season.  you can read about it at http://www.organicfertilizer.com/1000.html.  You don't have a significant grass stand in this lawn and if you can minimize the weeds right now you will not have to worry about annual weeds next autumn, when you are putting down your first layer of real American grass.

The Corn Gluten matter is involved, but I will elaborate -- on anther day or with a followup -- if needed.  Some people have never hear of this and I can just see them rolling their eyes over it.  It's patented and there's a long story associated with its discovery -- for another day.

But I stress the Corn Gluten application because your soil is so weed-friendly.  As I said earlier, high acid soil is just what the doctor ordered when it comes to weeds.  As your pH corrects, they will be flocking from all corners of the earth to your kinder, gentler soil.  CGM interrupts the germination of the seed IF you apply it correctly, so follow instructions carefully, including the timing of application which is everything.  Keep those weeds out of your grass this spring.  You will never need another pre-emergent if you keep those weeds down.

Weed seeds can delay germination for several years, so it is not too early to do that now, even if your lawn is not in place yet.  And the fertilizer benefit is tailor made for your soil correction program.

Organic Potash (0-0-30) would be applied this spring for next autumn's grass.  Nutrients are slowly released and will be seized and held in your high Clay soil waiting for the roots of your baby grass.

For summer, you will need a cover crop. It should fix Nitrogen into your Clay soil and will aerate it and help correct some of your problems.  There are many choices here but only a few good options.  Some are prohibitively expensive and you can get equally good results with less costly products -- now that you have invested in a soil test you won't have to waste money on things you do not need.

I think this addresses the basic, most urgent details of your report.  And again, I am sorry I did not throw something together more quickly.  It is really a matter of Where do I begin and What is the most important thing to focus on here?  Bottom line: You can never go wrong with a soil analysis before you take any steps.  I never would have guessed at these numbers.  Now you don't have to.

Please keep in touch.  I will post this at my desk and if anything comes to mind that I would change, I'll let you know.









---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: FYI, we did use a shovel to get 6 inches below the top per the lab instructions to obtain the soil samples. And as it is new construction, I can't believe there have been many applications of fertilizer.  But we did apply fertilizer once last @ august/september.

In any event, I will apply the Corn Gluten product when the forsythia bloom which is now in our area (I have read your previous answers re this product!) But, I am confused b/c you said wait b/4 applying any nitrogen fertilizer.  I will also apply the organic potash you recommend. Is this all I should do to raise the PH "gradually" as you suggested Right Now?

Also, as my front lawn is almost an acre by itself, what inexpensive cover crop do you recommend that can be put down with an existing lawn?

Finally, am I correct in assuming that September will be too early to overseed b/c the soil still needs to be corrected?  Or can we still overseed in early Fall?

Thanks in advance.
ANSWER: Lynn, I wish you lived next door.  I would love to see the transformation of this plot you have purchased.  You do not mess around.  You must have sent this out right after Breakfast.

About this soil's history and analysis: That Phosphorous number is off the charts.  I can only guess what caused it.  I do not believe that one season of fertilzer would yield those numbers.  They are off the charts into outer space.

Excessive Phosphorous will inhibit uptake of other nutrients.  It is one of several factors that ruin your grass before it has a chance.

You don't need any more Nitrogen Fertilizer because the Corn Gluten IS a slow release Nitrogen Fertilizer.  It is an Organic product that will steadily feed any vegetation that is there... including unfortunately perennial weeds.  The Corn Gluten only gets germinating seeds -- annuals that are beginning to grow right now.  And because it gets germinating seeds, you cannot put down any lawn seed, because it will be stopped just like the weed seeds.

You cannot put too much Corn Gluten down; it is an organic product, it is earth friendly, you can hold it in your hand and it won't give you any weird diseases or kill birds and pets.  You do not need a little yellow flag on your lawn when you put it down.  It's yellow, it looks just like what it's called.  If you've read earlier posts, you'll see that it was developed in a legitimate laboratory, and it passed U.S. Patent inspection.  By the way, if you have trouble finding a CMG product on the shelf, let me know and I will post a list of retailers and internet websites where you can buy it.  I answer maybe 2 or 3 of these a week.  And I'm glad to do that because there is not enough advertising of this stuff out there -- Scotts Company is pouring money into their ad campaign, they know how to sell a product.  For the record, watch through the summer as people start to email questions about how they can "save" their lawn after putting Weed N Feed etc on it.  They roast their lawns with those products.  And they get their money back but the grass is totally dead.  You can tell these people trusted Scotts and they think they did something wrong.  It's very easy to err, and when you do, your lawn is history.

That will NEVER happen with Corn Gluten.  NEVER.

The only problem you can have is if you don't follow the directions.  It's important to be very careful.  And if you get it right, it's so cool.

I am a little nuts so I put it down over and over through the summer.  I don't think that's necessary so I don't tell people that.

A cover crop cannot go down yet because of the Corn Gluten.  I will go internet shopping and see what would be moderately priced.  It would be a good thing to do to crowd out weeds and build up your soil for next autumn.

Your pH is EXTREMELY low.  It is IMPOSSIBLE to raise it quickly without doing something else that would be EXTREME which would be murder on your soil.  Right now you want to be friendly to your soil :) and give it nice things.  That's why the "gradual" word applies here.

I'll try to figure out the optimal liming product for your situation.  And no, I DO think you can aim for September-October grass seed.  If you have sun, I vote for a state of the art Bluegrass or (if you have the time to mow every 3 days) luxury Bentgrass...and a good, German, handpush, rotary lawnmower.  But we'll cross that bridge when we come to it.  Careful mowing will make the weeds more and more miserable and keep them from seeding.  Which I add you should do all summer.

Which brings us back to the Nitrogen question.  NOT picking up the clippings from the mower will return many pounds of Nitrogen back into your soil.  Earthworms and microbes take care of them.

I sure would like to know where those Phosphorous numbers came from.  It's excellent that you followed the instructions about soil sampling.  I just had to ask.

I hope this is clear.  I'll review the liming products and over crop options.  Just don't let the Forsythia bloom without having the spreader and the products ready for action.  Enjoy your dinner.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks again!  YOU DO NOT HAVE TO ANSWER THIS NOW as clearly I have nothing better to do + I'm sure that you do.  I will wait for your suggestions for liming + cover crop products.  

But, whenever you get a chance, when you get around to the liming + cover crops, I also have a quick question about the corn gluten.  We put it down.  But the directions say "water it in".  What does that mean?  I tried to water til it dissolved + that didnt work b/c it doesn't seem to dissolve!

Lynn  

Answer
Corn Gluten is not water soluble... BUT LYNN, is the Forsythia out yet?  If you are putting this down too early, it won't be working when you need it to.  Look outside.  Any Forsythia out there?

A few days early is OK.  But 2 weeks, that's pushing it.  You want to get all the weed-killing-power you can out of this.

Read the directions carefully.  I'll clarify anything you need.  But don't put it down too early, or none of this will matter.  Just watching out for you, Lynn!

The idea is that you want to moisten the Corn Meal Gluten so that it sticks when it dries.  If you don't, it will blow away and there will be nothing there to halt germination of those thousands of nasty little weed seeds that want to live at your house this year.

I'm very glad you were able to locate a product.  I'll give your other points some thought when I have a minute.  Thanks for writing!