Question
Hello, I live on 5+ acres in Maryland and looking for some help to get read of weeds and fertilize at same time at low as cost as possible and be green friendly since I have a water well. I have a tractor that I can pull a spayer but not sure what would be best to spray. Hope you can help. Thanks


Answer
5-plus Maryland Acres? Jerry you lucky duck.

Best thing for you is to get your hands on some Corn Meal Gluten at a local farm supplier.  It doesn't have to be in a fancy bucket or have a catchy name.  Anything called simply "corn gluten meal" will work perfectly.

Researchers at Iowa State discovered -- completely by accident -- that corn gluten was so effective, they were able to get a patent on its use as a weed killer.  They currently license it for use to 2 dozen companies to make organic pre-emergent herbicides.  But you can buy it straight off the shelf and get the same results.  Just a warning: You cannot use corn gluten on recently sown grass.  This stuff halts ALL seed germination.  It goes down any day after the Forsythia blooms in your neighborhood, which is exactly when annual weed seeds are germinating.  Note it must be applied to DRY soil for best results.

What I love about CGM is that after it has destroyed new weeds, it continues to decompose in the soil and it fertilizes your grass with lots of slow-release Nitrogen, all summer long!

Now, Jerry, let's discuss pH.

Did you know that lawn grasses and weeds don't like the same kind of soil?

Weeds thrive in Acid soil.  Turfgrasses prefer Alkaline soil.

A soil test will give you a good pH read -- and maybe predict whether your grass has what it needs to choke out summer weeds.  At the very least, a big dose of pelletized lime in the soil right now will begin raising the pH.  The more alkaline, the harder it will be on the weeds.  The easier for your grass.

When you mow your lawn this year with that superduper tractor, Jerry, leave the clippings on the grass.  You'll be putting TONS of FREE NITROGEN into your soil, building up a good, rich topsoil.

Don't spray.  That would be a crying shame, sir.

The less spraying you do the better your grass will be.  Those weeds will be begging for mercy at the end of the season.

Now for a word on mowing.

The Better Lawn and Grass Institute
(www.turfgrasssod.org/lawninstitute/guide.html) points out: "Proper mowing, watering, and fertilizing practices develop a lawn that needs less chemicals to control weed,
insect, and disease problems.  This is particularly true when you have established your lawn with improved grass varieties."

Hard to believe.  But true.

There are some tough, aggressive grasses out there
that will put weeds in their place.  Think about that toward the end of the summer.  If you still want a thicker lawn, contemplate the effect of over-seeding in early autumn.

Meantime, mowing your current grass selection at the perfect height makes your grass even tougher - and upsets the weeds at the same time.  I love when that happens.

Mowing is a secret weapon I'll bet you didn't know you had.  It invigorates grass to mow it right.  Invigorated grass is strong.  Stronger than weeds.

Weeds dislike it when you mow.  Chopping off the top of a weed is like a punch in the stomach.  Mowing off the tips of your grass is like giving them a massage, it is great for the lawn roots and it interferes with weed growth.  So you kill 2 birds with one stone when you mow correctly.

Look at the Lawn Institute website above or Organic Lawns
(www.organiclawncaretips.com) for the best mowing height for your grass variety.

I trust you also know by the way that you should never mow wet grass.  This prohibition includes dew-covered blades on a beautiful summer morning.  You will cause all kinds of pain and suffering that we can't go into right now but if you ask I'll elaborate.

I recommend some White Clover in any seed next time.  White Clover POURS Nitrogen into the soil.  And it's pretty and it smells sweet.  Especially as you ride over it with that millionaire tractor you have there.

Nitrogen is actually one of your best weapons for whacking weeds.  Surprised?

To give you an example, the University of Illinois tested the effect of Nitrogen at different rates on Tall Fescue
(www.turf.uiuc.edu/research/summaries/1994/94_3.1.pdf#search='university%20test%20mowing%20height').

The results posted:  Weed counts "were greatest in tall fescue maintained at a 1 or 2 inch mowing height."  They also noted: "Crabgrass populations increased as mowing height decreased..."

Cool, eh?

When it came to fertilizer, the amount of Nitrogen was not what mattered -- just as long as some Nitrogen fertilizer was applied.  Putting down NO fertilizer yielded the worst results: "Tall fescue that was not fertilized had significantly higher broadleaf weed populations than turf
not fertilized with any Nitrogen."  Remember, your Corn Gluten Meal will slow-release the best Nitrogen money can buy all summer long.

Researchers in the study above also said: "Even a low annual rate of Nitrogen fertilization can decrease broadleaf weed populations and reduce or ELIMINATE the
need for herbicide control."

So, even though you did not mention the name of your cool-season grass, I think it is safe to say you have all the tools you need to create the lawn of your dreams this summer.  And it won't break the bank.  Which is always nice.

This is the Intelligent Man's Guide to Growing Grass, my friend.  Any questions?