QuestionWe need some advise, please. We live in Las Cruces, NM, where it is very dry and sunny. We laid a sprinkler system down this weekend so we are now ready for some sod. We don't know the 1st thing about it. We are being told to lay compost (organic vegetable waste) before the sod. Our backyard is just dirt right now. Do we lay the compost days before the sod and water it?? What is the difference between Bermuda and fescue?? We need something beautiful and green!
AnswerIsabel, you have picked the perfect time of year for this project -- there is no time like the present, and there is no month like March to lay the foundations of a beautiful green summer lawn.
Relax!
This is going to be very easy, and very simple. Don't worry about a thing.
The map says your new lawn will be planted in a region on the edge of the Chihuahuan Desert, at the foot of the Organ Mountains, along the banks of the Rio Grande. In the winter, you are still enjoying temps in the 50s and 60s. As I type here in mid-March, it is 56 degrees F in Las Cruces and 39 degrees F in Roslyn Heights, Long Island, where I am working. Let's see what the Intelligent Gardeners at OutsidePride (http://www.outsidepride.com/store/state_resources.php?section=newmexico) have to say about growing grass in your USDA Zone 8a climate.
"Bermuda Grass is probably the most common choice at low elevations in the southern parts of the state where temperatures are hotter. With a deep root system this grass is considered very good when it comes to drought tolerance."
You have a brand new sprinkler system -- so drought tolerance could save you money, but you're not restricted to a grass with that feature even though I see you get around 8 inches or less of rain a year state-wide. So let's read further.
"In the cooler climates of New Mexico Kentucky Bluegrass does quite well as well as Fescues and Ryegrass. Native grasses such as Buffalo Grass may also be used in areas where water is scarce."
But you are NOT in a cool climate. It is most certainly not the kind of weather that would make Kentucky Bluegrass live happily ever after.
There are a lot of other grasses on the market, including the Fescue you asked about. Let's have a look.
There are 2 kinds of Fescue: Tall Fescue and Fine Fescue.
Tall Fescue - remarkable heat and drought tolerance. Outsidepride calls Tall Fescue "a good general purpose turfgrass for New Mexico...When adequately irrigated, it can be grown successfully in all parts of New Mexico." As far as loooks, the blades are a little thicker than most other grasses. This grass also tends to grow in clumps, rather than smooth, flat, green lawns. If your neighbors are growing Bermudagrass, watch out -- Bermuda will make itself at home in a Tall Fescue lawn and you will spend the better part of your days trying to get rid of it.
Fine Fescue - admired for its ability to thrive in light shade and grow in sandy, dry soil. But Fine Fescue is a weakling when it comes to foot traffic or any kind of wear. This grass is usually grown much farther north than you are, like in the Pacific Northwest. Outsidepride says it "grows best in cool humid regions, coastal regions and in high elevations." I have a feeling this does not describe your lawn situation. And I am not sure why there is a campaign to get you to grow Fescue. I could be wrong -- do they have information that I do not? Am I missing something here?
The absolute best thing for you to do here is to get a soil test. And while you're waiting for the results, get all the Humus and AGED Compost you can get your hands on and put a layer of that over your "dirt". You can lightly till it in if you're up to it, but the most important thing is to get a healthy population of Earthworms going. That is hard to do with the modest amount of water you get naturally in NM. What is the deal with water restrictions in your area? Will you be able to water grass that is not drought-tolerant -- and maintain the kinds of conditions Earthworms will demand? Please advise.
The reason I am so gung-ho on Earthworms is because they are God's masters at churning in and conditioning the stuff you call "dirt". It is wonderful to be able to leave all the driving to the Earthworms under your grass.
You mentioned "organic vegetable waste" -- the only thing that concerns me about that is that the vegetables won't be decomposed. Incorporating un-composted vegetables into your garden soil is asking for trouble. The process of rotting absolutely sucks Nitrogen out of the soil and leaves nothing behind for the grass. You want AGED Manure or AGED Compost. This is not negotiable, Isabel. It is very, very important to enrich your soil, but just as important to do that correctly.
After you get this layer of Compost/Manure/Humus over your soil, and the Earthworms are working away, you can have the Sod put down on top of it. Then water it in -- make sure you do that faithfully, nice and deep, to protect the roots. I urge you to avoid putting down any chemical fertilizers, including "starter" fertilizers or "grub control" or "weed-killer". They will wreak havoc on your new soil and won't do much for the grass you are growing after that.
A soil test can be done either for free or for a modest fee by your local Cooperative Extension. Putting down sod is something you want to do asap so get the soil workup right away. If you need help understanding the results, let me know, and I will de-code.
I'd say you're going with Bermuda. For a second opinion, ask the greensman at your local country club what s/he thinks. I'd like to know myself.
Sorry this is such a long answer -- I tried to cut corners, but some things just have to be said. Any questions?