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Overseeding lawn now?


Question
Thanks for your advise.

I got the contractor's grass 20lb bags from Meijer store. Are they a good quality seeds?

If I store them in the garage and keep them dry do I loss any percentage of living seeds.

I want to do overseeding on the lawn, not new soil. Is it OK for now?

Please advise.

Thank you very much.

JZ
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The text above is a follow-up to ...

-----Question-----
Dear Lawn Expert.
I live in Michigan. I need overseeding my lawn. I bought contractor's seeds. I would like to know if I should spread the seed now or wait till next spring and keep the seed over the winter in door.
Please advise.
Thanks,
JZ
-----Answer-----
My friend, the perfect lawn cannot be achieved with Contractor's seeds.  But we all have our priorities.  And I have to say, it is not THAT important to win the War of the Front Lawns.  In fact, the list of things that are more important than perfect grass is practically endless.

I just want to make that point because there are lots of well intentioned people who will almost DEMAND that you sow grass in autumn.  And if you are determined to win that War, autumn seeding is as necessary as a diet of protein shakes and steroids is to a trainer.  But if you want to sow with Contractor's seed, and you sow that grass in the spring, your lawn will be absolutely fine.

Those guys who urged you to sow in November will hear you laughing all the way to the bank!

Spread the seed in May.  Put the bag of seed in the garage, keep it nice and cold but dry, and away from winter scavengers.  In the spring, get out the spreader and broadcast away.

Do you know how to prepare the soil?  Don't buy anything from the Contractor - not even at a good price! - 'til you speak to ME first!  Lots of people will tell you lots of bad things.  I will tell you how to do it right, and cheap, and healthy.

And not even the best grass seed in the world can beat Contractor grass coming out of great soil.

Let's talk next April.  Have a great winter.

Answer
OK.  Overseeding it is.  The existing grass is healthy and thick - half or more of the lawn is great, but some is bare or thin.  No reason to sow from scratch if you have at least 50% great grass coverage already.  Understood.

The truth is, overseeding is one of the most neglected lawn maintenance exercises going.  So what you're planning on doing is TERRIFIC.  Let me say that again: TERRIFIC!

Because unlike you, most homeowners get all their education on lawn care from Scotts, in commercials during Lakers Games or some other TV show.  Scotts has the major chunk of grass "education" in the United States.  The market researcher company, Corporate Watch UK (http://archive.corporatewatch.org/profiles/scotts/scotts.htm#market_share), noted in one industry report: "Scotts enjoys a de facto monopoly on lawn care and garden products in the US."  So most people count on Scotts, which pushes consumers to buy their profitable fertilizers, weedkillers, fungicides and seeds.  But OVERSEEDING is really something people ought to regularly schedule in their lawn care program.  Especially since researchers are working constantly to develop stronger, greener grass.  So when you buy high priced seed say on the internet, you are getting the seed that was bred at the nation's top grass research centers.  It's part of what you pay for when you pay through the nose for premium seed.

The Better Lawn and Turf Institute (http://www.turfgrasssod.org/lawninstitute/howto_readlabel.htm) makes this point clear: "Not all seed is the same, particularly when considering buying grass seed for the establishment of a permanent lawn. There have been tremendous advances in lawn seed technology over the past 7 to 10 years, resulting in many improved varieties that are more insect, disease, and drought resistant available to the homeowner. Yet over half of the lawns in North America are over 7 years old."

One of the other things you pay for is the purity of the grass.  The Better Lawn experts say, "it is very difficult and expensive to catch all the weed seeds during the cleaning process. Acceptable limits range from 0.3 to 0.5%".

So the Contractor seed you got a good deal on won't produce state of the art grass.  There will be a higher percentage of weed seeds, and a lower percentage of real grass germination.  But the simple act of re-seeding - THAT ALONE will boost the curb appeal of your lawn, and your home.  Neighbors may just be putting down lime and fertilizer.  But you are going to revitalize your lawn with brand new grass.  Be prepared for ooohs and ahhhs, my friend.

When you seed, make sure there's no lawn thatch down there to keep the fresh seed from making contact with soil.  If there is, you can rent a core aerator to break it up.  The seed you put down will have enough of a battle with the existing grass; it won't have the energy to go searching for soil, too.  It needs all the help it can get.

Set your spreader at the digits on the bag for OVERSEEDING.  Remember, there's 2 numbers on the bag.  You want the Overseeding number.

But...

do this in March or April or May.  And put down a good, high phosphorous "starter fertilizer".  Not Scotts, by the way.  That's high in Nitrogen.  You want new grass to build roots.  Not leaves.

For now, mow the lawn nice and low, to keep the blades short and open up as much ground as possible for the seeds.  They'll get more sunlight that way, come spring.

Remember - do this in spring.

The seed will last longer if you "refrigerate" it.  That's why an unheated garage or porch is best.  Sure, there will be some wear and tear, but it will be minimal if you keep it cool and dry.  Keep it away from squirrels and birds looking for fine winter dining.  Most of it will still be as viable as it is today.

Good to hear from you again.  Keep in touch.  Any more questions, I'm here.

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