Question
thanks for your replies to my follow up.  

I think that, if possible, I will try to find a good seed (Scotts, Agway) that is mostly KBG and fine red fescue, with maybe some rye.  To be safe I should probably stay away from anything claiming to be super dark.  

I quoted my Ortho lawn book incorrectly.  It said  "perennial rye" could crowd out other varieties if over 20% of mix.  The book also said that tall fescue could overtake others in a mix.

Identifying color is scarey.  I think almost all the healthy lawns around here look the same-except one.  That person does the 4 step fertilizing and I only fertilized early and late fall this past year--so his green color may be more from fertilizer.  He also appears to have a broader leafed grass (neither he nor I know what seed was used.)

The irony of this project is that I put roundup on these areas several months ago to stop the bentgrass that had gotten in and stood out for its different color and texture.  Now I am faced with matching color and texture (I should have seen that coming).  Moreover, I realize there is more of the bent in an adjacent area that I either did not see, or has thrived because we've had so much rain.  

Frankly, my lawn (except for these roundup areas) is the best it has been in 20 years--all the rain.  I think most of all my grass likes water.  (Or does that say something about my variety?)

Thanks again

Rick
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Followup To

Question -
Hi Kenneth:

I believe I did see a Scotts mixture that was kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue, with the bluegrass being only about 25% of the mix.  But I also  believe I read that in mixtures, more than about 25% of fine fescue would cause the fescue to take over the other grasses.  Should I be looking for a bluegrass/fescue mix that would be at least 50% bluegrass?  Also, the surrounding area is more wide (about 1/4 inch) than real fine--and it is full sun.-------------------------

Followup To

Question -
Hi Kenneth:
By the way, I am in northern NY, lake champlain, across the lake from Burlington, VT.  Probably doesn't matter re. grass seed variety, but....

I am reseeding a patch of grass about 150 sq ft.  I have no idea what the grass is that surrounds it, so unsure what to choose that will blend with what's there.  Here's what I CAN tell you about existing grass:  no real broad blade (i.e., no tall fescue).  Mostly about 1/4 inch or maybe less, which makes me think KentuckBlue.  But also some fine and very fine (some almost like heavier fishline) (fescue?).  The area being patched is full sun.  

My first thought was pure Kentucky Blue, but then I noted that there is some finer grass mixed in.  But I've not found Kentucky Bluegrass and fine fescue unless it is only 25% or less bluegrass.

Scotts makes a SUNNY which is 25% envicta KenBlue, 25% AbbeyKenBlue, 25% Splendid perennial Rye, and 25% Evening Shade Perennial Rye.  But I am afraid this will be from medium to medium/coarse with no fine.

Or should I just not worry about it and assume that over time this 18 x 12 foot trianglur repair will blend in?

Rick

ps I am sending a couple of other questions your way, but keeping each to a separate topic.

Answer -
I would go with a mixture of kentucky bluegrass and fine fescues. This is often sold as "Shade grasses". You may be able to find one of the Scott's Pure Premium blends that contain these grass types.

Answer -
Bluegrass takes longer to germinate than the fescue so I think the mix is good. Fine fescues are not very aggressive and will not "take over" a lawn. In fact, areas with mainly shade will be dominated by the fine fescues and areas with mostly sun will be dominated by the kentucky bluegrass.

Perennials ryegrass germinates fastest of them all, and provides a nice thick cover. If you buy a good quality mixture, having perennial ryegrass in the mix is not a bad thing.

I think the most important part is matching the approximate hue (or green tone) to your existing lawn. If your lawn is dark green, then choose dark green cultivars. If your lawn is medium green, then go for these cultivars, etc.

IMHO, going with too high levels of kentucky bluegrass is only feasable if you can water twice daily for 4-5 weeks (or 2-4 weeks if seeded in late summer/early fall). It can take 3-4 weeks for the seeds to germinate, and KBG is "slowest" to establish thus my recommendation to water daily for 4-5 weeks. If you sow grass in late august, then plan on watering daily through end of september.  

Answer
KGB/Red fescue produce very uniform blend and should be good.

Perennial ryegrass tend to germinate faster than KGB (on opposite ends of the scale) and therefore P.rye has better chances to establish then KBG. If you are set on KBG, then use a mixture of mainly KBG/Creeping Red Fescue.

The "text book" explanation why perennial ryegrass was a good partner to KBG has always been that the fast germinating P.rye would grow and provide a good cover for slower growing KBG, but as you point out, the problem is that Perennial ryegrass then tends to take over as the dominent species. No doubt this also have to do with fact that people stop the daily waterings once the P.Rye germinate and you "loose" the KBG seeds subsequently. If your heart is set on KBG then go with a 100% mix of this, or a red fescue/kbg. In any event, plan on continuing to water for 30 days after planting to ensure high KGB germination rates.

Fertilizer does not necerssarily determine the green hue. A dark green color can also be due to selection of cultivars, and/or grass type.

Grass grow best with uniform moisture. As long as your soil is well draining, grass prefers moist soil as opposed to dry soil.