Question
I have two Maple Trees on my back lawn that have many surface roots. They have affected my back grass lawn. My thought is to cover the entire lawn with 2-3 inches of top soil and grow a newly seeded back lawn. What is your opinion of this?
I have a sprinkler system underground that would need work also. The sprinkler heads would have to be raised. Please advise. Thank you.

Answer
Good morning Morton:
If you continue with your plan, I fear you will get some unsatisfactory results.
Lawns in the shade are typically thin, weak, and of poor quality. Maintaining a quality stand of grass in the shade can be difficult and requires modifications in lawn care practices. Shade-tolerant grasses still need an acceptable amount of light to grow. In addition, lawns in shade areas generally do not have the ability to tolerate or recover from stress problems as compared to lawns growing in full sun.
Choosing a shade-tolerant grass mixture is critical. Red fescue or other fine fescues are the primary lawn species in these mixtures. These fescues have a poor to moderate wear tolerance meaning traffic should be kept to a minimum. Among the more commonly used cultivars of the fine fescues are Jamestown, Banner, Barfalla, Checker, Highlight, Koket, Shadow (all chewings fescues); Dawson, Ensylva, Fortress, Pennlawn, and Ruby (creeping red fescues); and Aurora, Biljart(C-26), Reliant, Scaldis, and Waldina (hard fescues).
Perennial ryegrass and tall fescue offer intermediate shade tolerance. Perennial ryegrass cultivars for shade include Birdie II, Citation II, Fiesta II, Manhatten II, Palmer, and Regal. Tall fescues best for shade include Falcon, Finelawn, Houndog, Jaguar, Olympic, Rebel, and Rebel II. Both perennial ryegrass and tall fescue are bunch type grasses and will not spread like Kentucky bluegrass could.
Kentucky bluegrass generally does poorly in the shade, but some of the more shade tolerant cultivars include Bensun, Bristol, Eclipse, Glade, Nugget, Touchdown, and Victa.
Care of lawns in shade areas are different than lawns located in full sun. Mow at 3 inches (7.62 cm), and fertilize less in the shade, as too much nitrogen can be detrimental to shade lawn species. About 1 to 2 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per growing season is all that is needed. When watering shade lawns, do so as infrequently as possible, and water deeply. Reduce traffic over lawns in the shade.
If these practices have been followed but the lawn still fails, there probably is not enough light even for a shade-tolerant grass species. Often a shade lawn mix is seeded, comes up fine, but declines rapidly due to a lack of sufficient light.
Recommended seed mixtures for light to moderately shady, dry areas
30 percent to 50 percent Kentucky bluegrass plus 50 percent to 70 percent fine fescue (blend two or three varieties of each species and mix). Use 3 to 4 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet.
or
100 percent turf-type tall fescue (blend two or three varieties). Use 5 to 7 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet.

Recommended seed mixtures for moderately shaded, dry areas
100 percent fine fescue (blend two or three varieties within a species or mix two or three species). Use 3 to 5 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet.
or
100 percent turf-type tall fescue (blend two or three varieties). Use 5 to 7 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet.

Recommended seed mixtures for shady, wet areas
50 percent to 70 percent or more rough stalk bluegrass plus 30 percent to 50 percent perennial ryegrass (a blend of two or more varieties). Use 3 to 4 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet.

If lawn grasses have continued to fail, try a shade-tolerant groundcover or mulch, possibly in combination with ferns or woodland flowers. See the list I have provided below.
Goutweed:A persistent, weedy groundcover that spreads via rhizomes.Tolerates many soil types, deep shade to full-sun; foliage may scorch in full-sun. Plant in contained areas to avoid becoming evasive.   
Bugleweed  Ajuga reptans: Low-growing, attractive foliage, spreads via above ground stolons. Prefers moist, well-drained soils in heavy shade to full-sun; protect from winter winds. Cultivars vary in both flower and foliage color.   
Canada Wild Ginger: Forms foliage mass up to six inches tall, spreads rapidly via rhizomes. Excellent for partial to deep shade.   
Lily-of-the-Valley: Forms thick carpet of upright leaves, spreads rapidly via rhizomes, very adaptable but does best in well-drained soils, partial to full shade. May crowd out delicate plants. Large quantities of roots and rhizomes are poisonous. Fragrant flowers are popular.    
Purpleleaf Wintercreeper Euonymus: Trailing habit and roots readily into soil as it creeps along. Heavy shade to full-sun, prefers well-drained soils. Protect from winter winds. Scale can be a problem.    
Sweet Woodruff: Delicate deciduous groundcover which forms uniform mat of bright green, persistent foliage. Small, white flowers. Prefers moist, well-drained soils in medium to deep shade.    
Hosta, Plantain Lily ; Large group of hardy, dependable plants with bold, decorative foliage forming neat, circular clumps. Plants spread slowly via short rhizomes. Adaptable, best in open shade, leaf burn problems in sun. Slugs are a common problem.   
Japanese Spurge  Pachysandra: Neat, uniform, evergreen groundcover, which spreads via rhizomes to form dense mat. Best in shade, well-drained soils. Protect from winter winds; may have pest or disease problems if stressed.   
Periwinkle  Vinca minor: Trailing, vinelike evergreen groundcover, which roots as it creeps along. Grows in fairly heavy shade to full-sun; although foliage tends to be deeper green and glossier in the shade. Protect from winter wind and sun. Disease problems may occur with poor drainage and poor air movement.    
Barren Strawberry: Forms mats of strawberry-like evergreen foliage with glossy, bright green leaves and yellow flowers. Easy to care for, plant in partial shade to full-sun.    
Woodland Natives  (various). A wide variety of woodland plants such as ferns, Jack-in-the-Pulpit and trilliums may also be used in areas where turf will not grow or is not desired. Consult native plant specialists & nurseries.
As much as I hate to say it, if you want an acceptable lawn you must get rid of your maples (including the surface roots) and begin a program of lawn renovation. This renovation should begin in mid August through late September. I would strongly advise you to begin the removal of your maples so that the lawn renovation could begin next year.      
Have a good lawn.
Floyd McMahon