Question
My question is about lawn mowers, what kind I should buy.  Our place is situated on  0.92 acres, very uneven, lots of dips, tree roots, stones, etc.  The guy who currently does my lawn says I would need to buy a $3000 mower if I wanted to mow it myself, because the lawn would just chew up the blades on any 揅raftsman?type product.  

I wonder if my lawn guy isn't just sayin that in an effort to keep his job?  I know it's tough to give an answer without seeing my lawn, but I'm wondering if just a decent self-propelled push mower might not do the job (my lawn does have some sharp angles & a bit of  maneuvering around bushes & trees)?  Or is a 損rofessional grade?type product the only answer for those of with rough, uneven terrain?
zip: 12498
Woodstock, NY

Answer
Good afternoon Rick:
A good , high quality, self propelled rotary mower would give you acceptable results provided the mower is well-maintained and proper mowing practices are followed. It should be at least a 4 ?to 5 horsepower unit and have a heavy gauge steel or manganese body. You should set the height of cut to 3 inches or more. Set it as high as needed to clear the roots, rocks and any other obstructions. Keep the blade sharp even if you have to sharpen it several times a season. You may have to pay as much as seven to eight hundred dollars for a high quality mower but it will be worth it because it will last much longer than a cheaper one. Your first mowing should only be done after you have scouted the entire lawn area and removed those large rocks and loose material that you know will interfere with the mower set at a 3 inch height.
Conventional mowers designed to discharge small clippings back to the turf often produce turf of acceptable quality. Reports vary regarding the need for mulching mowers. According to some reports, mulching mowers work well, while other reports indicate that mulching mowers can be difficult to operate if turf is long or wet. A study conducted at the University of Illinois determined there was no benefit using a mulching mower, as compared to using a conventional rotary mower, provided mowing frequency and nitrogen rates were appropriate for the turf in use. I have both a conventional and a mulching mower and I prefer the conventional version.
Even with mulching mowers, mow frequently at the recommended height using the "one-third rule" (see "General Mowing Guidelines" below). Maintain blade sharpness, mow when turf is dry, and return clippings to produce the best quality, most healthy turf possible.
General Mowing Guidelines:
The two most important facets of mowing are mowing height and frequency. The minimum height for any lawn is 2 inches (5.08 cm). The preferred mowing height for all cool season grasses is 2 1/2 to 3 inches (6.35 to 7.62 cm). Mowing to less than 2 inches (5.08 cm) can result in decreased drought and heat tolerance and higher incidence of Insects, diseases and weeds. Mow the lawn at the same height all year.
Mow the turf often enough so no more than 1/3 of the grass height is removed at any single mowing. If your mowing height is 2 inches (5.08 cm), mow the grass when it is 3 inches (7.62 cm) tall. You may have to mow a bluegrass or fescue lawn every three to four days during the spring when it is actively growing but only once every seven to 10 days when growth is slowed by heat, drought or cold.
If weather or another factor prevents mowing at the proper time, raise the height of the mower temporarily to avoid cutting too much at one time. Cut the grass again a few days later at the normal mowing height.
Let grass clippings fall back onto the lawn, unless they are used for composting or mulching elsewhere in the landscape. Grass clippings decompose quickly and provide a source of recycled nutrients and organic matter for the lawn. Mulching mowers can do this easily. Side-discharge rotary mowers also distribute clippings effectively if the lawn is mowed at the proper frequency. Grass clippings do not contribute to thatch accumulation. If herbicides are applied to the lawn, do not use clippings in the vegetable or flower gardens. Keep them on the lawn.
During the season, regularly check mowing equipment for sharpness and adjustment.
Sharpen rotary mower blades every fourth mowing, especially when mowing fescue or ryegrass lawns. A dull mower blade will shred and fray leaf blades instead of cutting them cleanly. The result is a brown, unattractive lawn.

Have a good lawn!
Floyd McMahon