Question
Hi There:

I live in Canada so any advice is appreciated. We installed new sod (good mix with Kentucky Blues Grass and Red Fescue) in August 2003.  Last year, the sod did not bounce back all that well.  We did water and used a turf building fertilizer in the spring last year.  This year, our grass is again coming in slowly and the back lawn is very short.  The sod also seems to be very compacted and dry too.  Any advice on how to improve this situation and should sod be in this shape already? We do have a dog and a couple of kids but we thought we had selected something quite durable and purchased the sod through a reputable sod farm.

Thank you in advance.

Shannon Buchart

Answer
The sod probably grow poorly in very compact soil. Is the lawn area very shaded ?

I recommend that you core aerate this spring and repeat in fall. Core aerating involves a machine which pulls plugs of soil from the ground and leave them on the surface to decompose (or you can rake them). The machine can in the USA be rented from equipment rental stores. I would suggest you look in the phone book for equipment rentals, or visit a larger garden center and inquire. A home improvement store may also help. Note; Try if at all possible to CORE aerate rather than spike aerate. Core aerate removes cores of soil (the size of a small cigarette) whereas spike aerating just punches holes. The latter really does not elivate compaction. It just redistribute it. You can use spike aerating as alternative, but core aerating is really the most beneficial practice.

If possible, have a landscaper delivery a truck load of compost, or screened organic topsoil and then broom it into the holes after core aerating.

Here are a few more tips which I suggest you implement:
- fertilize once in late spring (May) and twice in fall. Fall fertilization is VERY important. Fertilize in early september and mid to late october.
- water infrequently but deeply. e.g. it is better to water once per week for 2 hours rather than 15 minutes every morning. By watering deeply and infrequently, you encourage the grass to grow deep roots and become more tough. If you have very hard clay or soil which water can not penetrate easily, you can water 10 minutes at first. wait 15 minutes and than water 30 min. wait another 15 minutes and water 20 mins. continue this until you have watered for a total of 60-90 minutes (not counting the breaks). Do this once per week if no rain, rather than frequent shallow applications. The frequent shallow applications are used only during sod establishment.
- mow the lawn frequently and mow high. Mow the lawn 2.5-3.0" tall (6-8 cms) meassured after a cutting. in spring and early fall, mow twice per week minimum. once per week in early spring, late fall and during summer months. avoid cutting the lawn too low and do not cut the grass back drastically if it has become too long. cut it back gradually over the period of a few days.

If you follow above:
- fertilize primarily in fall, water infrequent and deeply and mow the lawn high but frequently, you should have a great lawn.

A hard compact soil can be loosened by core aerating and topdressing. This is best done every year, but if you can not do that, doing so once every few years is even a good idea.

If you have excessive shade, it is very important to keep an eye on the watering. mature shade trees can suck up a lot of water during summer's heat, so if the grass turns blueish green and dull (compared to lush green) and footprints 10-15 minutes remain after walking, it is a sign of mild draught stress and the lawn should be watered immmediately. when you do water, water deeply. deeply. deeply (no shallow applications).

Also, cut grass tall especially in shade, and rake fallen leaves promptly.

I suspect the soil compaction may be the main culprit, and core aerating is really highly recommended.

Sincerely
Kenneth