Question
I just paid to have my old lawn torn up, and a new one seeded.  One day after the work was completed, the governor of my home State of Washington declared a drought emergency.  No water restrictions have been enacted, but lawns will probably have to die this summer.  I'm supposed to water the dirt in my front yard twice daily.  It's a small yard, about 30' * 30', but I feel like a jerk watering it.  But I paid for it, along with a bunch of much-needed yard maintenacnce.  The price for all of it seemed fair, but not insubstantial.  I paid for the total job and don't even know what portion of that went towards grass seed.  I didn't watch the work because I was at work, so I don't know how labor intensive it was to seed the soil.  What would you do?  If I just don't water will the seeds remain dormant until I do water again, months from now after the summmer is over?  Or will the topsoil in my brown dirt yard blow away and cost me to replace it before grass can grow again?  Think that'll cost much?  Should I lay bark over the dirt for the next months and employ a weed killer for anything hardier than grass that might pop up?  I had planned to lay bark anyway in a large planter box that runs along the side of my house.  What sort should I get?  Fine or chunky?  Can you suggest a good weed killer for the planter box and "lawn" that is environmentally sound?  I don't want to kill a bunch of fish because the drought is going to kill millions of baby salmon anyway.  I want to be a responsible citizen and conserve water, but I can't necessarily afford to eat a very big loss.  Your advice would be greatly appreciated.  I know nothing on this subject.  I'm out of my element.  No clue.  Please help.

Answer
Good Morning John:
Until such time that a water restriction is initiated I would continue to water. I know that you feel uncomfortable doing that but it is the only way to go. The best time to seed a new lawn is in late summer to early fall. The reason is that the newly  seeded lawns will be going into the cooler part of the year so that it will be less susceptible to drought conditions.The next best time is very early in the year which is evidently when your lawn was seeded. Your lawn will be going into the hotter part of the year making it more vulnerable to drought conditions.
Adequate water must be available from seeding through germination. Try not to allow newly overseeded areas to dry once watering has started. Maintain a constantly moist seedbed with frequent watering of short duration. As newly germinated seedlings begin growth, decrease watering frequency and increase the duration to encourage rooting.
Too much water will inhibit germination and promote disease. As you reduce the watering frequency you should also increase the amount of water applied each time. After 6 to 8 weeks water as an established lawn.
Deep, infrequent watering is best for most established lawns. Water until the soil is  soaked to a depth of 4-6 inches, which allows the water to reach deep into the root system. Usually this will amount to about one inch of water per week. Set out a series straight sided containers under your sprinkler system (Tuna cans, Cake pans etc). Time how long it takes until the one inch level is achieved. You can then use this time figure for future watering without using the cans.
Watch for runoff during the watering period. It is possible that your lawn will not be able to soak up the water as fast as your sprinkler is putting it down. If this occurs shut off the sprinkler for an hour and then turn it on again.
The best times to water your lawn is in the early morning or early evening when there is generally less wind and heat. Do not water in the heat of the afternoon, when water evaporates too quickly and very late in the evening, which can cause the lawn to stay wet all night. This may encourage disease development. Shaded turf requires less water than lawns in full sun. The best schedules are those determined by observing the appearance of your lawn.  Turf that is moisture deficient will not spring back up after walking on it. If you are confident that a water restriction will be applied don't worry as cool season turfgrasses go dormant during the heat of summer. Around November put on a good winterizer fertilizer. Your lawn should recover nicely the next sping.
Now let's talk about mowing your lawn once it is established. The two most important facets of mowing are mowing height and frequency. The minimum height for any lawn is 2 inches (5.08 cm). The preferred mowing height for all cool season grasses is 2.5 to 3 inches (6.35 to 7.62 cm). Mowing to less than 2 inches (5.08 cm) can result in decreased drought and heat tolerance and higher incidence of Insects, diseases and weeds. Mow the lawn at the same height all year.
Mow the turf often enough so no more than 1/3 of the grass height is removed at any single mowing. If your mowing height is 2 inches (5.08 cm), mow the grass when it is 3 inches (7.62 cm) tall. You may have to mow a bluegrass or fescue lawn every three to four days during the spring when it is actively growing but only once every seven to 10 days when growth is slowed by heat, drought or cold.
If weather or another factor prevents mowing at the proper time, raise the height of the mower temporarily to avoid cutting too much at one time. Cut the grass again a few days later at the normal mowing height.

Let grass clippings remain on the lawn, unless they are used for composting or mulching elsewhere in the landscape. Grass clippings decompose quickly and provide a source of recycled nutrients and organic matter for the lawn. Mulching mowers can do this easily. Side-discharge rotary mowers also distribute clippings effectively if the lawn is mowed at the proper frequency.
Grass clippings do not contribute to thatch accumulation.

During the season, regularly check mowing equipment for sharpness and adjustment.
Sharpen rotary mower blades every fourth mowing, especially when mowing fescue or ryegrass lawns. A dull mower blade will shred and fray leaf blades instead of cutting them cleanly. The result is a brown, unattractive lawn.
Fertilization: Nitrogen is the most important nutrient for promoting good turf color and growth. Do not overstimulate the turf with excess "N" (nitrogen), especially during the spring and summer. Overfertilization can contribute to thatch buildup and increased mowing requirements. Avoid underfertilization of bluegrass and ryegrass. These species can become unhealthy if not fertilized properly. Turf that does not respond to nitrogen fertilizer may be lacking in other nutrients, such as phosphorus or iron. Get the soil tested to determine which nutrient(s) are deficient. Balanced or complete fertilizers contain various amounts of phosphorus, potassium, iron and sulfur. They are a good safeguard against a potential nutrient deficiency.
Do not place a bark mulch of any kind on your newly seeded lawn.

Now lets confront the planter box: I would place a weed barrier mesh (that can be purchased at a nursery or garden shop) on the bottom of the planter box. Next I would place a "Chunky" type of mulch on top of the weed barrier with a thickness of about two inches. When planting time comes place the plant where you want them to be by removing the mulch in that area and slicing an "X" in the weed barrier. Replace the mulch around the planting to about one inch of the plant. This will keep weeds from invading your planter box. There is a weed preventer called "Preen" that can be used in established flower gardens. This is environmentally sound and inhibits weed seeds from sprouting. For your information go to:
http://www.preen.com/newpreen/index.jsp

I doubt if you know what type of seed mixture was planted in your lawn. I assumed that it was mixture of Kentucky bluegrass, Tall Fescue, and perennial Ryegrass. I am referring you to the web site below so that you might appreciate all the different varieties of turf grass that can be grown in your area.
http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/turf/topics/tpnw.htm  

Cool Season Lawn Establishment:
http://muextension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/hort/g06700.htm

Your Washington State Lawn Drought Advisory information:
http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb0684/eb0684.pdf

I hope I have answered your questions. Have a good lawn.
Floyd McMahon