Question
Zip code:  12148
Thanks for taking the time to help me.
Last summer/fall, grubs did some major damage to my lawn.  I had been using the Scott's Step 4 Program and was happy with the results I have had the previous three summers (green, healthy grass).
However, I never added any grub treatment, because I didn't have any problems (or so I thought).  After seeing a stubborn skunk tear up my back lawn, feasting on the grubs this past September, I decided to put down the final Scott's treatment (Step 4), and address the damage in the Spring.  What steps do I take to repair the damage that was done?  I could literally peel back over 60% of my back lawn--the damage was that extensive.  Do I peel it and re-seed, or will the damage lawn re-grow strong roots with the proper treatment?  What is the proper treatment?
Thanks for any advice.

Answer
You are in gardening zone5.

The Scott's 4 step program is very good, except I would recommend the following changes:

- do not fertilize too early in spring unless you have had a bad infestation of crabgrass. If you need to put down a pre-emergent herbicides in very early spring against this weed, then use step 1, otherwise skip step2.

- apply your step two in late may. Use regular Scott's Turfbuilder (no insecticides/herbicides).

- skip the summer application (turfbuilder with scott's guard). This application does more harm than done.

- fertilize in early september with regular scott's turfbuilder, alternatively with turfbuilder w/broadleaf control (such as Scott's 2+2).

- apply one last application after the grass has stopped growing in late fall. Usually end october is preferred.

e.g. make step 1 optional and only apply if you had PROVEN, DOCUMENTED, problems of crabgrass, otherwise skip. Apply step 2 in late may, skip step 3 (summer), apply fertilizer in early and late fall. Do not skip the late fall application (end October) it is extremely important for the health of your lawn.

If you have had roots severed, you can in some cases make them regrow by watering well for 14-30 days. However, if the grass is not rooted now in spring, it will not root and is probably dead. Your best option is to rake and reseed in spring (april). Use a starter fertilizer at time of seeding, but still do not fertilize in hot summer months. Water well through summer to avoid putting your young grass into dormancy.

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In July apply SCOTT'S GRUB-EX for grubs. It is not effective in very early spring so no need to use it then.

You might be tempted to treat grubs now in the spring, when you see last fall's damage梑ut most spring treatments are a waste of time and money. The grubs have already damaged your lawn and are fairly resistant to insecticides at this time. Furthermore, even if you could eradicate them, summer will bring a new batch of beetles to your lawn.

Note: grub-ex is very good (and so is "Bayer Advanced Lawn?Season-Long Grub Control " for example). They are based on an active ingredient called Merit (Imidacloprid) which will attack grubs not not harm beneficial insects like earthworms.

Apply in mid July to end July and you should have good control. Check lable on the grub products avilable locally (if you can not find Scott's Grub-Ex or Bayers' Advanced Lawn Season-Long Grub Control). If the active ingredient is Merit (imidacloprid) then you should be safe.

Other insecticides are also acceptable, but most of these (diazon for example) kill beneficials, too.

Note: Bayer makes various grubs brands. The "Season-Long" is based on Merit.