QuestionI live in Arkansas and this past spring (in April) I sodded zoysia in our front lawn because we have many trees (oaks) that shade our lawn. Initially, the grass grew well, but for the past 2-3 months, I have noticed that the outer areas of my yard are not growing as well and are turning brown and/or dying. The middle of my yard is still doing well. The middle gets more shade than the outer areas but overall there is a mixture of sun and shade. Additionally, the soil (which I had trucked in) on the places that are not doing as well, seems to be powder-like now, while the soil on the well grass feels like healthy soil.
I fertilized before starting the sodding and once more at the beginning of the summer. I have watered at least twice a week. What am I doing wrong? Any suggestions? Thanks.
AnswerHi J Pennington,
Without a visible inspection and/or image or specimen/sample to examine, realize the limitations here in diagnosing any specifics about your lawn's appearance decline.
Thank you for the useful data you have provided so far.
New sod can sometimes require more than one season to become well established.
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All turf-grasses are easy to grow IF they have the basics of mediocre soil and lots of sun-light. Add some extra fertilizer and water, ...and turf-grasses are generally VERY EASY to grow. So, if you are having lawn-appearance problems,...there is most likely a definite cause you can try to determine with some detective work. If you have continual problems, you are advised to CHANGE your grass-type to one more suitable for your locale OR else try some sort of alternative landscaping solution in full or part of the lawn areas.
Here are some more ideas for you:
A SOIL-TEST may define any soil chemistry problems which may be causing problems. Of particular importance is the 'pH' of the soil. It should not be less than 6.5 for most grasses.
A Laboratory SOIL TEST may well define your top soil's chemistry and physics and prevent future problems by diagnosing them early. A good top-soil should be sufficiently "loamy" with good tilth-drainage and fertility factors and also proper acidity (pH). A expense for a soil test may save you time, work and money later on. Some garden centers sell home testing kits. You can purchase these kits for less than $10 at most lawn and garden centers.
You should work to RULE-OUT turf-grass diseases.
Turf grass FUNGUS outbreaks are relatively common and often fast spreading.
Work fast to avoid losing large areas infected with the phytopathogen.
Visit this website and link to "Lawns" for IMAGES of many turf grass diseases and their diagnosis:
http://plantpathology.tamu.edu/Texlab/index.htm
BROWN-PATCH DISEASE Website: http://plantpath.unl.edu/peartree/homer/disease.skp/Hort/Turf/Tubrnpt.html
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Fungi reproduce by microscopic SPORES. As with weeds and their seeds, working to break the reproducing cycle by eliminating the spores and reproductive phase of the fungus is the best way to control it. Rakes and tools, including the lawn mower should be sufficiently cleaned with a bleach solution to reduce the human caused spreading of the spores.
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If you can verify a FUNGUS DISEASE:
Your local garden center should have a variety of FUNGICIDE chemicals to treat a fungus infection of the grass. Some fungal infections can spread very fast and destroy vast areas in short order so do not waste any time in treating a fungus infection once diagnosed.
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Lawn and Garden INSECT and PESTS:
Try to IDENTIFY insect and disease causing pests which may be causing at least some of your lawn appearance woes. Once the causative agent is diagnosed and identified it will be an easy task to find a TARGET pesticide chemical you can use to control these types of problems.
There are now hundreds of web-sites with images to help you ID a bug or fungus problem. Often you can take a sample or specimen to your local lawn and garden center, and someone there will know exactly what it is and what to spray to kill it. Most States will also have Agricultural Extension Service Offices with free help for a variety of lawn and garden problems.
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ABOUT "HOT-SPOTS" in SUMMER LAWNS.
Working to obtain a more moisture-retentive top-soil:
Every year, as the heat approaches, look for the "Hot-Spots" in the lawn. These are areas that will weaken and look punk as temperatures rise above 85 degrees F. (~30 C.) or so. With a Bermuda grass lawn, you can often just top-dress these problem areas with some commercial packaged soil amendments such as potting soil or compost. The grass will eventually fill in or can be re-seeded. With larger problem areas, you may want to truck-in commercial high quality top soil and "rich-mix" top-soil blends (which will have compost, humus and manures included). Do not add sand to improve moisture retention. Adding (and roto-tilling in if possible) these sponge-like soil amendments and increasing the humus and organic matter content of the top soil will help it and the root-zone to conserve moisture during the warm, windy and dry/drought times when moisture is either absent or rapidly lost to the air.
Schedule to have your lawn lush and well fed and the top soil optimized BEFORE the summer hot weather arrives. Eventually, your top-soil will become more able to support a well-hydrated stand of turf during the heat. It will be a help also of course to invest in a commercial watering-irrigation system. These now can be computer controlled to monitor the hydration levels in the soil and work in harmony with your local weather conditions.
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With a good fertile-loamy well draining top-soil, best quality hybrid grass type(s), 1-3 inches of water per week, plenty of sun-light, ...almost anyone can have an excellent lawn with a minimum maintenance effort.
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I Hope this has answered your question(s)!
Visit my Lawn & Gardens webpage for more Lawn and Garden Tips, Facts and Links:
http://hometown.aol.com/eilatlog/lawnol.html
Your Questions and Comments are welcome at ALLEXPERTS.com
___ Jim Gibbs,
Microbiologist/Botanist
