Question
I have what appears to be mycellum fungus causing bare patches on my lawn. I got some stuff called Mycel-Med that seems to work, but the Mycel-Med people have apparently ceased operation or no longer want retail business. Is there anything else that I can use?

Thanks,

Chris


Answer
CHi Chris

The term 'mycelium' refers to a phase in the growth-cycle of the higher fungi.  The fungus producing the spider-web like mycelium will usually eventually demonstrate the fruiting bodies (mature phase) which are the mushrooms and toad-stools that can pop-up over night sometimes to appear in the landscape.  These are generally harmless things and only an eye-sore. Once the fruiting bodies appear, you will be better able to identify the fungus species to find a fungicide remedy.

Some higher fungi may have a mycelial phase which can affect the root-zone ecology and affect the turf-grasses to cause dead areas, however I have never heard of the mycelium itself directly affecting the plants in the same sense that the microscopic rusts and smut fungi do.  These microscopic fungi attach themselves to the grass foliage and cause visible damage and disease.

The mycelium phase thrives mainly on the nutrients in the root-zone soil.  Having excess turf-grass fertilizer in the soil can be conducive to all types of fungus problems. Reducing the nitrate levels in the soil and skipping one or two fertilizing events may solve your problem.  Also, avoid applying nitrate fertilizers near the beginning of cool fall weather.  The grass will slow-down in its metabolism and the fungi will feast on the excess nutrients to become opportunistic.

 You can suppress the growth of many Fungi by watering affected areas with a solution of one ounce of IRON SULFATE in three gallons of water applied at the rate of about one gallon per square yard. ( I have never used this fix, but they say it is useful.)  Solutions of iron salts also affect soil and root zone chemistry, but may be indicated if fungal diseases are threatening.

 Iron Sulfate and commercial Broad-spectrum FUNGICIDE chemicals can be used to control/prevent FUNGI and MUSHROOM outbreaks. Iron Sulfate and fungicides can be found at garden/Farm supply stores.  Commercial FUNGICIDES are widely available, check hardware and department stores.

 In summary:
(As with weeds)
There is no enduring treatment or practice you can do to totally be free of these fungus growths;.... only the preventive and horticultural practices will help to keep their populations down or non-problematic and rare.  These horticultural practices involve creating more aerated, better drainage and ventilated conditions.

 Other horticultural practices for all fungi in general include keeping lawn debris and thatch to minimum, aeration of the top soil strata, and, to repeat, use less amounts of NITROGEN in fertilizing, stop fertilizing application in mid-late summer for the year, and avoid over-watering while encouraging greater sunlight penetration to lawns by tree-pruning/shaping.  Essentially: encourage dry and airy conditions and less humus for fungi to feed upon to get started.  Otherwise, try some of the chemical remedies I have mentioned.
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Be sure you are not over watering the lawn.

Again, excessive moisture in a high nitrate-fertile cool top soil can cause fungal blooms, mushrooms and microbial diseases;... do not contribute to these conditions by over-watering and un-necessarily feeding your lawn.  If you can let your lawn become "nitrate hungry" between fertilizing events (the greenness will fade), then, chances are, the mushrooms and toadstools will move on to more fertile fields.

About Watering:
It is a common error with watering and sprinkler systems in particular to water with clock-timed regularity .  Lawns are best watered on a visually inspected and "as needed" system.  You should know how much water your sprinkler system delivers and also have a rain-gauge to help keep watering to within 1-3 inches per week. A well hydrated stand of turf grass should bounce back when compressed by foot traffic; it should also be able to go several days between soakings in mild weather...this promotes deeper rooting and helps to get by in dry times. A single good deep soaking is better than frequent smaller waterings.

Watering at nights is usually more practical and efficient.  The idea is to NOT lose water by winds and evaporation effects which are usually less intense at night.
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 Be sure to keep rakes and lawn tools clean and/or periodically sterilized with a bleach solution to prevent the spreading of fungal spores.

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I Hope this has answered your question(s)!

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