Question
(Monroe NC, 30 min SE of Charlotte)
Hello again Mr. Gibbs,
 Thanks for the previous answer about the green streaks.  I am still learning and it was great to get an answer that I could understand without further research.  :-)

  Now, I have identifed a "Leaf Spot" problem.  I have a feeling that my watering is not done correctly.  The soil is an impressive brick house building variety (lots and lots of clay).  
 
1) Now that I have the spots, what do I do next?


Also, I have a grassy weed (is that the correct label?)  I will try and describe it the best I can.  I have been through a couple of weed finders and am still not quite good enough to make a definite ID.

2) What is the name of a grass looking plant, but instead of a blade, it is definitely a stalk.  Very tightly wound and in places (usually just one) there is, for lack of a better term, a "knee joint".  It feels like walking on hay straw.

If you can ID it from that short description, that would be great.  Even better, what can I do to get rid of it?

THANKS AGAIN!!!

Dan D. Jystad

Answer
Hi again Dan D. Jystad:

You have two answers coming:

[01]
About a "Leaf-Spot" Problem:

Moldy, dusty, powdery, rusty, mildew-like spots on grass and plant vegetation are usually due to FUNGUS Diseases.  Sometimes and more rarely these symptoms can implicate bacterial and virus infections as well. There are no cures for plant virus diseases.  Using disease resistant turf-grass hybrids can avoid many of these types of problems.  Consider 'up-grading' to a new high-tech grass-type if you continue to have lawn appearance problems.

Since fungal diseases of lawns invariably involve over-watering conditions below here I have included a short article about lawn irrigation.

Turf grass FUNGUS outbreaks are relatively common and often fast spreading.
Work fast to avoid losing large areas infected with the phytopathogen.

Visit this website and link to "Lawns" for IMAGES of many turf grass diseases and their diagnosis:

http://plantpathology.tamu.edu/Texlab/index.htm

BROWN-PATCH DISEASE Website: http://plantpath.unl.edu/peartree/homer/disease.skp/Hort/Turf/Tubrnpt.html
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[02]
About an Un-identified weedy plant.

Your description of a weedy plant reminds me of 'Carpetweed' ( Mollugo verticillata)... or possibly 'Bedstraw' (one of the Galium weeds).  However, without an image or sample or more information about its flower or leaves, the plant cannot be more precisely identified here.

Log-on to the USA Plants Data base and enter the above plant names for more information about these plants....

Plant Info and images:
http://plants.usda.gov/index.html

 Or go to GOOGLE.com's home-page and click on the imgage tab and enter the plant's name to be directed to images of these or any plant.

For example, and using the Google image search I find 88 images of which this is one with great images of the weed called 'Carpetweed':

http://www.missouriplants.com/Whiteopp/Mollugo_verticillata_page.html

Use the botanical name of a plant in web-searches to find the most reliable information about it.

Both of these weeds mentioned above are classified as 'Broad-Leaf' type weeds and can be controlled by herbicide chemical formulas containing  2-4-D and/or 'Trimec'.
 At your lawn and garden center you will find herbicides such as Ortho's 'Weed-B-Gon' which should work, provided the plant is, of course, a non-grassy weed.

Keep any weedy plant from forming flowers and making seeds and you can eventually Control its populations.

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ABOUT WATERING:

Again OVER WATERING is a main cause of FUNGAL DISEASES and Mushrooms-Toadstool in lawns.

Regular "Clock-timed" watering causes a "spoiled, shallow and weak root system" unable to cope with hot weather conditions.

Unless you have a COMPUTER CONTROLLED IRRIGATION SYSTEM, i.e. one which automatically accounts for not only how much water rains are supplying to the lawn but also keeps a record of quantities applied to the lawn, DO NOT totally water your lawn with clock-timed regularity.  This can be a big mistake.

It is a common error with watering and sprinkler systems in particular to water with clock-timed regularity .  Lawns are best watered on a visually inspected and "as needed" system.  You should know how much water your sprinkler system delivers and also have a rain-gauge to help keep watering to within 1-3 inches per week.  Climate and weather factors of humidity, barometric pressure, winds, and micro-climates, soil drainage-physics etc., can make clock-timed watering more than in-efficient and un-reliable. A well hydrated stand of turf grass should bounce back when compressed by foot traffic; it should also be able to go several days between soakings in mild weather...this promotes deeper rooting and helps to get by in dry times. A single good deep soaking is better than frequent smaller waterings.

Watering at nights is usually more practical and efficient.  The idea is to NOT lose water by winds and evaporation effects which are usually less intense at night.
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Again, excessive moisture in a high nitrate-fertile cool top soil can cause fungal blooms and diseases; do not contribute to these conditions by over-watering or over-fertilizing your lawn when the turf grass is in a low metabolic state and not readily up-taking the salts.
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I Hope this has answered your question(s)!
Have a fantastic Summer!

Visit my Lawn & Gardens webpage for more Lawn and Garden Tips, Facts and Links:
http://hometown.aol.com/eilatlog/lawnol.html

Your Questions and Comments are welcome at ALLEXPERTS.com

___ Jim Gibbs,
     Microbiologist.