Question
I am quite knowlegeable on organic lawn care methods, but would like help on which products.  Ringer, WOWplus from Garden's alive, PROStart from North Country or what.  The lawn in need is on sandy acidic soil and probably received 2" of topsoil when the new house was done October 2002.  Was thinking of a biostimulant from Plant Health care and weeds are a problem. It is my son's lawn and the impatient dear wants a perfect lawn.  Also what is your opinion on Milorgonite? zone 5 south of Boston   Will be aerating, overseeding, checking PH again and top seeding with a good quaity grass seed, if you have a recommendation on a sun, drought tolerant mix that would be great.  Thanks  

Answer
The important part for the lawn is the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in the fertilizer. These are the primary macro nutrients we seek to re-supply through fertilization.

To some extend, the amount of secondary macro nutrients (sulphur, calcium, magnesium), and micro nutrients (zinc, iron, manganese,boron,etc,etc) are also important, but these are typically available in ordinary garden soil.

Personally, I don't believe in 'bio-stimulants' and 'vitamin boosts' for plants. It is emotionally charged concepts which have no basis in plant growth physics.

I recommend that you look into the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium contents that organic fertilizers supply. These are the important numbers. If you find that two products produce the same amount of these 3 ingrediences then they are for all purposes interchangable.

Milorganite is 6-2-0 and contain very little potassium. This can be a concern on a sandy loam based turf. Potassium, together with nitrate nitrogen, leaches easily through sandy soil requiring more frequent fertilization. If you use milorganite (6-2-0) follow up with single nutrient applications of sulfate of potash (0-0-50). Check garden center's organic isle. Espoma produces 5 lbs bags of 0-0-50 (sulfate of potash) which can be spread on the lawn after applying milorganite. Use 35 lbs milorganite per 1000 sq feet lawn area (2 lbs actual nitrogen) and follow up with 4 lbs 0-0-50 per 1000 sq feet sulfate of potash. Besides potash, sulphur is also provided. These quantities should be applied 2-3 times per year. In past some concern has been raised about using sewage sludge on the lawn, but I don't think it is any worse than manure/slaughter industry byproducts. It would be ok to use. Only drawback is the lack of potassium and thus require investment in sulfate of potash seperately.

For sandy loam surfaces, your target should be a fertilizer which provides relatively high levels of potassium. Ringer (10-2-6) is very close to doing this, although a single application of 0-0-50 once per year (2 lbs per 1000 sq feet) can be done also. Ringer contains a mix of various products, including blood meal which release nitrogen fast for instant green up, and slow release products for continous feeding. I like Ringer Lawn Restorer. Use 20 lbs per 1000 sq feet 2-3 times per year. Follow up with 1 single application of 0-0-50 once per year (2 lbs per 1000 sq feet).


I am not familiar with Garden's alive (WOWPlus) or PROStart, but I would check the NPK ratio. If nitrogen and potassium (first and third numbers) are approximately the same (such as 20-10-20, 5-2-6, etc) then I would go with that. If you find any one with little or no potassium then skip same unless you plan to add sulfate of potash. I would stay away from so-called "bio-stimulants" unless it is just a fancy name for organic fertilizers. e.g. find out if it is indeed a fertilizer (must have N-P-K ratings on lable).
When dosing, use this formular: 200 / first number of bag (nitrogen percentage) = amount to apply per 1000 sq feet. E.g. if you use 10-2-6 apply: 200 / 10 = 20 lbs per 1000 sq feet. Make sure first and thrid numbers are close.

In zone5 (MA, Boston) fertilize your lawn in late spring, early fall and late fall. I do not recommend that you fertilize during hot summer months. eventhough organic fertilizers wont 'burn' the lawn, fertilizing during hot summer months is taxing on the lawn and should be avoided. Using organic fertilizers on sandy loam surfaces in late spring and early fall (memorial day and labor day) is highly recommended. In late fall (after topgrowth stops, usually around halloween) it is very beneficial to apply one more application of fertilizer. Organics are less suited to this last application as soil temperatures will be too cold at this time. I recommend a single application of Scott's Turfbuilder or other quick release fertilizer in early November, but if you want to stay organics, then you can instead apply a single application in early spring instead.

If you need to treat crabgrass, a single application of 20 lbs/1000 sq feet of CGM (corn gluten meal) evenly spread applied at normal times (early april) would help against crabgrass and feed the lawn with organic, slow release nitrogen (about 10% nitrogen). This product is slowly becoming available at garden centers (and garden's alive) but otherwise check farm supply stores. It is corn GLUTEN meal (not corn meal). If you plan on sowing seeds this spring, then skip this application. Corn gluten meal is a natural seed sprouting inhibiter, and an organic source of nitrogen.

I would recommend that you have a soil test done to verify pH. target a pH of 6.0-6.8. If pH is 6.0 or above DO NOT LIME.

The most draught tolorant grass type is TALL FESCUE, but do not overseed tall fescue into other lawn grasses (fine fescues, perennial ryegrass, kentucky bluegrass) or it will look weedy. Also tall fescue will be brown (straw colored) from late fall through early spring which may be an issue ?

Kentucky bluegrass is more draught tolorant than perennial ryegrass, but germination can easily take 30-40 days in spring and as such not a good grass to 'overseed' with unless you can water daily for 1-2 months until germination has happended and grass is well established.

Perennial ryegrass sprouts fast, but it is not the most draught tolorant and require even moisture through hot summers.

Both Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass are sun lovers. Avoid fine fescues (hard, chewing,creeping red) in direct, sun sunny areas.

The best solution is usually to pickup a bag of mixed grasses (perennial ryegrass, kentucky bluegrass and fine fescues). Scott's makes a number of high quality grass mixes.

Aerating annually is highly recommended, but if you have a choice, I recommend that you do so in early September.