QuestionHi Kenneth. Just re-reading your reply to my lawn questions, here is another one....you mentioned if I see a lot of crabgrass this year (which I'm seeing now), I should put down Step 1 next April and use 1/2 strength turfbuilder in late may (no herbicides/insecticides except the grub-ex). How do I use 1/2 strength? Is that just putting down less of the turfbuilder on Memorial Day? I use a rotary spreader, can I just adjust the settings so less of the Turfbuilder is put out on the grass?
If I put down Step 1, when in April should I apply it? I want to make sure there is enough time in between feedings to put down Turfbuilder on Memerial Day.
This year I'm going to put down straight Turfbuilder on Labor Day and Halloween. Is this timing correct or should I put it down on Labor Day and Thansgiving?
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!
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Followup To
Question -
You have been a great help, thanks for all the info so far, here is a few more questions if you don't mind....I planted new seed last year, so my lawn looks better this year, but it still needs to fill in a bit. I was told that I should not use any fertilizer with weed killer in it, because it may affect the new grass. So instead of using Scott's Step 1, I put down some Scott's Starter Fertilizer at the end of April. I was planning on putting down the Starter Fetiler a few more times this year, do you think that is a good idea? If so, when should I put down more fertilizer? If not, what do you recommend that I use for fertiler next? Should I use Scott's Step 2? Also, when should I put down GrubX? I was planning on the end of May. Can I also put down some Bug-B-Gone at the same time or within a month or so? Thanks for the help!
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Hello Lawn Expert.
I live in Rhode Island and have a couple lawn questions, hopefully you can answer them. At the end of summer, I had to rip up parts of my lawn because of over fertilizing, I reseeded and the grass came in pretty good, but not as full as the existing lawn. I did notice that the areas that I reseeded sunk a bit and you really can tell the difference from the rest of the lawn. Any suggestions on how to get the entire lawn level or even? Do I need to put down more soil on the reseeded areas? If so, will the grass grow through the new soil?
Also, should I put down more seed in these areas, to get the grass fuller? I'm thinking some of the seed didn't take when I reseeded at the end of the summer.
Thanks for your help!
Answer -
Thin grass after sowing is normal. It tends to fill in better the 2nd season. I would recommend that you keep an eye on it this summer, and if you are not happy with the density in late summer, overseed the lawn area again.
Overseeding involving spreading grass seeds over an established lawn area and then watering this lawn area as a newly seeded bed (e.g. frequently, but shallowly such as 2-3 times per day for 10-15 minutes during each application). In 3-4 weeks the new grass should germinate and you can then gradually increase the time between watering and the amount of water you apply. the goal after 3-4 weeks is to water infrequently, but deeply when you do water (such as once weekly for 2 hours).
Best time to re-seed lawns in RI will be early september or late May. Since the grass does not do well during hot summer months, I prefer to reseed in September.
The soil probably settled if you tilled (dug) the area. Once rain settles the soil it tends to shrink. Normally, you need to till the soil, then roll it with a landscapers roller, or alternatively, water it heavily. Then wait a few days, rake smooth, water again, and repeat. Then you can loosen the top 1/2" of soil and seed. THis will help with the settling problem.
In your case, you can bring in topsoil and topdress the lawn with 1/2-1" of soil. Provided the grass is 2.0-2.5" tall when you topdress, it should grow right through it. You may have to do this 2-3 times over a period of 1-2 years. If you decide to do it, topdress in late May and Early September. Spread it thinly. A good way is to place mounds at regular intervals with a wheel barrow and a shovel and then use the back of a rake to distribute it evenly. be preparred for a BIG job, however. Buy good quality topsoil. Don't use compost or humus as it will disappear again. You need a mixture of clay, sand and silth (e.g. topsoil).
In your area, fertilize your lawn in late spring, early fall and late fall (e.g. memorial day, labor day and thanksgiving). Do not fertilize during hot summer months, or too early in spring. Always apply fertilizer to a DRY (but not draught stressed) lawn and then water in immediately with plenty of water, or apply when rain is forecasted. You can water the lawn 2-3 days earlier to ensure it is not draught stressed.
If you decide to use fertilizer with weed control products (weed-and-feed) then apply to a WET lawn and leave on 24 hours before washing into the ground. Do this when the maximum daytime temperatures are CONSISTENTLY below 85 deg F. e.g. such as late may or early september.
Do pay special attention to the fertilizer timing. Don't fertilize during hot summer months (or in early spring) no matter what the neighbors or the commercials on tv claims.
When you mow your lawn, mow frequently (1-2 times per week in spring and fall and 1 time per week or every other week in summer). Mow tall, e.g. 2.5-3.5" tall (use a ruler next time you mow your lawn and meassure after cutting. it should be in the above range). If you mow the lawn taller (e.g. in above range) it will appear greener (a little trick)
If you want to water manually, water infrequently but deeply, e.g such as once per week for 2 hours rather than 15 minutes daily. a regular oscillating sprinkler attached to a gardenhose using common household water pressure will require 2-3 hours to apply enough water to thoroughly wet the root zone to a dept of 8-10". The general guideline is to water infrequently (weekly) but deeply (for 2-3 hours). The only exception is during seed establishment when you need to water frequently and shallowly (see above) to keep the top 1" of soil consistently hydrated.
Good luck.
Answer -
Fertilizer should be added in late spring, early fall and late fall in your area. If you want to use fertilizer w/pre-emergent herbicides (aka crabgrass killer) such as Scott's step 1: Turfbuilder with Halts, then do so in early spring (april), but if you did not have a great infestation of crabgrass last year, I actually recommend that you do not use it. Fertilizer this early in spring is not recommended.
It is correct, that you should not use fertilizer w/crabgrass preventer in early spring because it can interfer with the germination of grass seeds, too. If you use fertilizer w/crabgrass preventer in april, wait to seed until september.
I think you are going for entirely too much fertilizer.
fertilizer should be added 3-4 times only and majority should be placed in fall. This is different advice from Scott's, but Scott's is more tailored towards putting down a lot of herbicides and insecticides and the timing of these guide their recommendation of fertilizer, rather than fertilizing at the optimum times for the grass. Also, Scott's being a professional company, know they must sell fertilizer in spring and summer because this is when gardeners are receptive to buy. They wont sell much fertilizer in fall although this is best for the grass.
Do yourself and your lawn a favor, and buy regular Scott's turfbuilder, but do not buy all the mixes with insecticides, herbicides, etc. not as general rule, however. In response to specific problems you can buy fertilizer w/herbicides, but not as annual routine applications. Your lawn will thank you.
Apply fertilizer in late May, late August and late October (memorial day, labor day and halloween). Do not fertilize during hot summer months.
If you must use herbicides, use the pre-emergent herbicide against crabgrass (step1) in april, but then use the may application at half strength. You can use weed-and-feed products in may or september if you must. DO NOT USE INSECTICIDE MIXES. They will kill too many beneficial insects which the lawn rely on to stay healthy.
Apply grub-ex in mid June.
In summary:
- forget about these insecticides (bug-be-gon, and others)
- use grub-ex because you have a proven problem. apply in june
- use primarily regular fertilizer w/out any additions and apply primarily in fall and alternatively in late spring. not during hot summer months and not too early in spring
- if you need to use pre-emergent herbicides then use same in april. if you need to use post-emergent (aka broadleaf) herbicides then use same in may or september. but only against proven problems.
- since you fertilized already in late april, I would use 1/2 strength turfbuilder in late may (no herbicides/insecticides except the grub-ex).
Starter fertilizer has increased levels of phosphorus which is recommended at time of seeding. Since you have seeded already then there is no reason to repeat this application. Switch to regular turf builder from now on. Too much phosphorus in the soil can tie up other nutrients.
AnswerUse Scott's step1 (crabgrass preventer) 1st half April. This should be early enough to take effect. That would leave 6 weeks until memorial day which is fine.
The memorial day application you can use 1/2 the usual amount. E.g. set the spreader to distribute less product than normal and then walk your usual route.
Normally spreaders have settings via a dial which allow the opening to be larger or smaller. This will control the amount of product being distributed. check the spreader manual. If the spreader instructions for your fertilizer says 10 then using a spreader setting of 6-7 should give less product (if this is how the spreader works. they are all different). Worst case you can use the normal amount in May.
In rhode island, I would probably fertilize labor day and halloween. This is because you want your last fertilizer application of the year to be after the top growth stops but before the roots go dormant from a cold freeze. It will be after first night frost (about the time you plant tulips and daffodil bulbs).Ideally the grass should have stopped growing but still be green. One method which I use is to wait until you have not had to mow two weeks in a row (because the grass has stopped growing) and then fertilize. In your area, however, you can also wait to 1st week of November and fertilize. that should be quite close to the optimal time.
