Question
What can I do to stop deer from eating my plants?

Answer
Deer gardener, As a Bambi-loving Long Islander, I admit that I don抰 relate to this problem.  Last time I discussed it, I was upstate, and someone mentioned that the region is "infested" with Deer.

When WE get "infested", it's usually under an inch long with tiny legs.

But damage is damage. After the back-breaking work of gardening, not even Bambi has the right to steal into the night and act like this was some buffet you put together just for him.  So let's deal with it.  Especially since you are clearly not one of those people who keeps a gun next to the door ready to deal with hit THAT way.

I. Some gardeners claim there are plants Bambi won't eat. Maybe.  Here is a limited list:

Spring bulbs: Daffodils, Galanthus, Hyacinths, Alliums, Fritillaria.  Not even Sqirrels or Rocky Raccoon will touch Fritillaria and Daffodils; they contain a bitter poison.

Perennials: Lantana, Oleanader, Yarrow, Astilbe, Painted Daisy, Coreopsis, Purple Coneflower, and Salvias.

Groundcovers: False Queen Anne's Lace (Ammi majus), Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lily-of-the-Valley, highly toxic Conium maculatum (the famous poison Hemlock), and shade-loving Lamium maculatum.  For a more comprehensive list:

garden.lovetoknow.com/wiki/Deer_Resistant_Perennials

Herbs: Potent essential oils are offensive to hungry Deer: Anise, Basil, any strongly scented Mint, Oregano, Marjoram, Rosemary, Sage, Tarragon and Thyme. See this thread on gardenweb, where one poster says the herb I would put at the top of my list - wild onion - is relished by her local Deer:

forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/herbs/msg1100165728914.html

Annuals: Alyssum, Geraniums, Marigolds, Nasturtium, Petunias and Snapdragons. A nice long list is posted at Gardenchat:

hortchat.com/info/deer-resistant-annuals

II. What's that smell?

There are plenty of hard strategies for discouraging Deer.  Bars of Lifebuoy soap and aluminum pie tins hanging from trees, sprays of baby formula, Garlic Oil, and various species of Urine pass the smell test at different labs.

The Exploratory Chemical Research Team at the National Wildlife Research Center studied concentrated Hydrolyzed Casein -- 揌C?-- as a Deer repellent.  HC is used in powdered baby formula, which was also evaluated.  Although not as strong as the pure hydrolyzed protein, formulas labelled 17 to 18 percent Casein Hydrolysate (Enfamil Pregestimil, Nutramigen, and Similac Alimentum) worked almost as well:

www.aphis.usda.gov/wildlife_damage/nwrc/publications/05pubs/kimball053.pdf

They point out, 揟echnical-grade HC completely eliminated browse damage to evergreen shrubs.?br>


揜etail HC-containing baby formulas provide browse protection when alternative plant are available.?   Of the different sticker agents, Elmer抯 Glue worked best,  mixed 1 part glue to 3 parts water and spray; then punch holes in the lid of the powdered baby formula, turn upside down, and shake.

Concentrated Garlic Oil ranks as one of the more widely endorsed methods.  This is not the stuff you cook with.  It抯 a potent concentrate made specifically to use against trespassing Deer.  Deploy vials at strategic points around the garden perimeter, then wait for Deer to stop and smell the Garlic. This website caters to customers with nuisance wildlife; look for their 'Deer Clips':

www.northerngardening.com/deerproducts.htm

Scientists have studied Deer for decades. Mississippi State University extension recommends Human Hair, Mothballs, Bloodmeal, Soap and commercial chemicals, rotated every 3 to 4 weeks, for best results.

Researchers have tested Milorganite fertilizer as a Deer repellent for years.  In 2005, a lab tested it around Soybeans: 'Milorganite treatment reduced browsing of Soybean plants for at least 37 days.' For a longer report, see:

warnell.forestry.uga.edu/service/library/for05-001/for05-001.pdf

Regarding Mothballs: 'Often, Mothballs are used [against] Squirrels, Skunks, Deer, Mice, Rats, Dogs, Cats, Raccoons, Moles, Snakes, Pigeons... Any such use is illegal.  Since mothballs are registered pesticides, it is illegal to use them in locations that are not on the label.'  More at:

extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pdf/pnw/pnw606-e.pdf

There抯 research data on Lifebuoy soap.  In Virginia, they wrapped a patch of small Apple tree trunks with barbed wire, and dangled bars of soap from the branches of others. Three weeks later, not one soap-holding Apple tree had been damaged.  However, 30 percent of those with barbed wire were damaged and 43 percent of the controls were damaged.

In Illinois 6 years ago, a full battery of tests was run six years ago by the at  the Illinois Walnut Council on Deer repellents.  They posted the results online:

www.walnutcouncil.org/deer_repellent_study.htm

They do make a further point here:  Hungry Deer will eat POISONOUS plants when there is no other choice.  They抣l go through these even if it makes them sick.  Then when alternative food is available, they avoid the toxic plants.

I抣l give them the last word on humanely repelling Bambi and his friends:

揇eer are basically lazy animals that often use the same trails or paths. Along these paths you usually notice the most deer damage on trees (buck rubs or browse damage).  It is also easy to notice if deer are bedding down in the plantation at night.  Deer damage is usually severe here. Our experiment with deer fencing worked because deer did not bother to jump a 48-inch fence, although they could do so easily without any effort.  It also worked because we fenced in a small area of trees.  A larger area would be ineffective unless a taller fence would be installed (costly).

'If you have a favorite tree to protect, we have had great success by enclosing the single tree with fence wire, forming a cylinder. This protects trees from deer rubs, but not browsing.  If the tree branches reach 4 feet in height, this will be above the browse line and the problem is gone.  The key is to get the tree above that height. Annual browsing forms 揵ushy?trees.  Deer also tend to rub on smooth barked trees. Young trees of all species fall into this category.  When trees mature and form rougher bark, buck rubbing usually stops, or if it does occur, it does not damage the inner bark.

'Examining the results of this study, taking into consideration cost, time involved, and effectiveness, the old stand-by Dial soap would be recommended. One problem we often heard was that soap does not last long on the tree. Ours is still hanging after two years. All you need to do is drill a hole and hang it with fishing line.'

Still, having limited experience with this issue, all I can really tell you is that my dog Daisy would be very good at getting rid of Deer.