Question
We live on the Eastern Shore of Maryland.  Three weeks ago we found two mounds of dirt with holes leading under my deck.  Our back yard is fenced in (pickett) to keep our two small maltese pups from leaving the yard.  We have put a humane trap out with bait, filled the holes, soaked rags with ammonia, used mothballs in the holes and keep a radio going outside on the deck 24hrs a day. All of this work with no results, what ever it is will re-dig the holes. I am concerned what ever is digging is doing so to ready a place to have her young.  I will not do anything to harm this animal I just do not know what else to do to deter it from making a den in our back yard. Can you help us?

Answer
Of course, I can help.

The best course of action is to exclude the animal. Unfortunately, you don't seem to have identified it. Big difference between fox and a ground hog. Given the redigging, it sounds like a woodchuck/groundhog.

You can now see why we don't encourage the use of repellents. Since it appears from your comments that a lot of your information is coming from poor sources, I will provide you with information to explain my comments. On repellents see below.

As for your comments on using a humane trap. I suspect you actually mean a cage trap. (It is a common misunderstanding that cage traps are somehow more humane than other traps perpetuated by various anti-trapping groups).
Translocation, which means you take the problem animal and dump it somewhere else, is often considered by many to be humane but actually isn't. (another common myth). It also may not even be legal in your state. To learn about why relocation is not humane see information below the Repellent info.

As for control techniques for the woodchuck, assuming it is a woodchuck, the most humane method is trench fencing your deck and then installing a one way door. This way the woodchuck is evicted but is not moved from his known habitat. I normally don't recommend that non-professionals do this because of the risk of making a mistake. It isn't rocket science but sometimes non-professionals cut corners and think they can skip directions.

Here is some information on woodchuck control. Some of the tips will be repeated in the information provided on repellents and translocation.  The key is to get educated. Then initiate the proper control techniques that accord with the law and your situation.

Woodchuck under deck or building

In order to control a woodchuck under a deck/shed/porch etc, you have to determine what is legal in your state along with what you want to do.

So called Non-lethal Methods:
1.   Harassment can work, which is just continually back filling the hole until the animal gets tired of digging out and leaves, but it could take weeks. http://www.icwdm.org/ControlMethods/hazing.asp
2.   One way doors can work provided you trench screen your porch area and install a one way door over the opening. Use caution when young are present, typically prior to July. I don抰 recommend the inexperienced to try one-way doors as too many things can go wrong. You were warned. To trench screen, (watch out for buried wires and pipes etc.) you need to have screening above ground attached to the porch wall (1/4 inch mesh will work, galvanized is better). Then go down two inches under the soil and make a 90 degree angle out away from the porch wall at least 18 inches. This way, when the chuck meets the wall, he wants to dig straight down to get under it. But when he does he is trying to dig through mesh which he is standing on. Of course you can bury the mesh deeper if you wish and make is larger as well. http://www.icwdm.org/Prevention/decks.asp
3.   Trap and relocate. The problem here is even if relocation is legal in your state it has a number of problems including a. potential of spreading disease b. harm to the animal as it now has to find new food sources, avoid predators and find a home before nightfall. (not very humane). You also run the risk of sending your problem somewhere else.  Young may also be abandoned. http://www.icwdm.org/wildlife/euthanasia/relocation.asp

Woodchucks are not a major threat to pets or children. While they have been known to carry rabies, this is rare. In general, and under normal conditions, if you leave them alone they will leave you alone.  Their digging can undermine foundations. So that always has to be considered.

Forget using those silly ultrasonic devices. There is no evidence they work.

You can also trap the woodchuck and dispose of it according to state laws.  Visit http://icwdm.org and click on Guides Then Wildlife Damage Management then rodents. You can also go direct at http://icwdm.org/handbook/rodents/ro_b183.pdf  There will be plenty of information there for you to choose from to learn more about groundhog control.
A key mistake most people make in trapping is 1. not using enough traps, 2. not euthanizing the animal (if legal in your state).
To learn how to euthanize a woodchuck visit http://www.icwdm.org/wildlife/euthanasia/default.asp

4.   Once the infestation is gone secure the deck, foundation, shed to prevent future woodchuck entry. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER secure a deck, foundation or shed etc. unless you are swear to God certain that the area is no longer being used by wildlife. More details are found http://www.icwdm.org/Prevention/decks.asp

Fumigants. There are fumigants available for the killing of woodchucks provided you can have access to the den and the den is away from structures. Fumigants can be very dangerous. Sulfur based ones are lit and can lead to fires. They can be purchased on local hardware stores. Photoxin is extremely toxic and requires a pesticide license. Fumigants work best when the ground is moist as it holds the gas in the tunnel better. Gas dens when you are certain the chuck is present or after sundown (chucks are diurnal). ALWAYS follow the label. The Label is the law. Buildings have burned down because people foolishly misused sulfur based fumigants. Misuse of either fumigant can also kill you or someone you love.


Once the problem is resolved, learn how to know at http://www.icwdm.org/Inspection/techniquepaperhole.asp  visit http://www.icwdm.org/Prevention/decks.asp
Let me know if you have any further questions.

We are always looking for images (if you can safely take them) of wildlife damage to help us in our educational mission. We prefer high resolution, (3 mg or higher). Send to [email protected]  or if your e-mail can抰 handle large files upload to http://members.icwdm.org   
Username use all caps.     ICWDM
Password (all lower case)  guest

Please include permission to use the images and where and when the photos were taken. Month/year is fine as is county or city  and state.

Disclaimer: As with any activity, remember that animal damage control comes with its own risks and problems which can include but are not limited to legalities, health threats, and personal liabilities. Be sure to follow all state laws governing wildlife and make sure you have a thorough understanding on how to resolve the animal damage complaint. My advice is only as good as your understanding of me and my understanding of your situation. If you have any questions be sure to write back.



Woodchucks and pets

I have a few recommendations, thank you for asking. By the way, all the material on our website and or responses from the expert can be made public. The mission of the ICWDM is to provide research based wildlife damage management information to the public.  We are always looking for ways to get this important, but sorely neglected, information out to more people.

First, restrain pets. Cats and dogs should not be permitted to roam beyond the bounds of one's property without being leashed or under the direct control of a responsible individual.  If you know your pets are especially territorial, then fencing property to exclude wildlife from entering would also be recommended. See http://icwdm.org for details on doing this. Exclusion would also prevent an unfortunate encounter between a skunk and your pet as well.
Second, pets should have up to date rabies vaccinations.
Third, woodchucks should be excluded from the property by trench-screening sheds/decks/porches to prevent them from taking up residence there.   Gardens should also be properly fenced to prevent woodchuck activity.   The idea is if there is no food or living quarter's available, the chuck will be less likely to go onto the property.
Fourth, pets should not be fed outdoors. If there is no other way, give them only what they need for one feeding and remove leftovers. This includes water. Rationale is the same as above.
Fifth, if necessary and legal in your area, population control of woodchucks may be necessary. Information on control is available at http://icwdm.org
Finally, don't bother with those silly ultrasonic devices or area repellents. The former doesn't work at all, and the latter will be generally ineffective in keeping wildlife out of backyard.

We are always looking for images (if you can safely take them) of wildlife damage to help us in our educational mission. We prefer high resolution, (3 mg or higher). Send to [email protected]  or if your e-mail can抰 handle large files upload to http://members.icwdm.org   
Username use all caps.     ICWDM
Password (all lower case)  guest

Please include permission to use the images and where and when the photos were taken. Month/year is fine as is county or city  and state.

Disclaimer: As with any activity, remember that animal damage control comes with its own risks and problems which can include but are not limited to legalities, health threats, and personal liabilities. Be sure to follow all state laws governing wildlife and make sure you have a thorough understanding on how to resolve the animal damage complaint. My advice is only as good as your understanding of me and my understanding of your situation. If you have any questions be sure to write back.





Repellents

Repellents are rarely as effective as homeowners wish they were.  The reasons for this are explained at http://icwdm.org/Prevention/repellents.asp

For repellents to use on particular species including home remedies, visit http://icwdm.org/handbook/index.asp  Click the species you wish to protect yourself against. Remember, always follow label directions when using repellents. Understand however, for many species there are no effective repellents, despite what you may read.

I have heard of it. First, moles are not rodents. Second, how are they to smell the product (assuming they would even be afraid of it?) Third, what scientific peer-reviewed literature does the manufacturer present to show that this product actually works. (My hunch is zero).
ULTRASONICS
What about ultrasonics? Well there again the problem is most animals cannot even hear in the ultrasonic range. So chances are if you can抰 hear the noise neither can they. Also ultrasound is very weak and doesn抰 penetrate walls or go around corners. Think of the other issues above as they relate to ultrasound. Even assuming the animal can hear it. What choice does the animal have? Starve or hear an annoying sound. If noise stopped activity then a lot of parents would stop working once their teenagers start playing music. You see the idea.

To learn more visit http://icwdm.org

Disclaimer: As with any activity, remember that animal damage control comes with its own risks and problems which can include but are not limited to legalities, health threats, and personal liabilities. Be sure to follow all state laws governing wildlife and make sure you have a thorough understanding on how to resolve the animal damage complaint. My advice is only as good as your understanding of me and my understanding of your situation. If you have any questions be sure to write back.


Mothballs

You have asked an important question. One I wish more people asked before recommending mothballs or any repellents to control wildlife damage.

First, FIFRA defines a pesticide as FIFRA Definition of "Pesticide"
Pesticides are broadly defined in FIFRA Section 2(u) as chemicals and other products used to kill, repel, or control pests. Familiar examples include pesticides used to kill insects and weeds that can reduce the yield and sometimes harm the quality of agricultural commodities, ornamental plantings, forests, wooden structures, and pastures. But the broad definition of "pesticide" in FIFRA also applies to products with less familiar "pesticidal uses." For example, substances used to control mold, mildew, algae, and other nuisance growths on equipment, in surface water, or on stored grains are pesticides. The term also applies to disinfectants and sterilants, insect repellents and fumigants, rat poison, mothballs, and many other substances. Note that mothballs are included.   

Second. mothballs come in two forms, 1.4-dichlorobenzene and naphthalene. Neither chemical is what we could call biologically friendly.  Although the stringency of FIFRA regulations at times lack common sense, I would suggest that following the guidelines explained (in English not Governmenteze) in the NWCO best practicises manual to be the best course of action for your publication.  See http://nwco.net/03-LegalIssues/3-1-5-AvoidTheOops.asp

Third, one should understand the limits of even registered repellents. Rarely do they work as well as property owners wish.  Read our information on why repellents fail http://icwdm.org/Prevention/repellents.asp     Mothballs are registered for certain animals. However, the amount usually needed for real world effectiveness would drive away the owners of the home.
As for mothballs and skunks, I can tell you from plenty of personal experience, (I owned my own animal damage control company), that I frequently was hired by people who discovered that mothballs didn't drive away the skunk living under their deck. The reason for failure is really quite simple to understand. First, the owner confused the hole under the deck with the hole to the den. They are rarely the same. Second, skunks can simply kick out the moth balls if they were placed near their den's entrance.

Fourth, humaneness. Ammonia can cause incredible irritation to eyes and nasal passages. Homeowners spraying this around, especially in chimney's, in their attempts to drive away, say a raccoon can cause incredible suffering to any immobile young.

I hope this all helps. Let us know if we can be of further assistance.

Relocation

Legal questions should be referred to your state's division of wildlife. Laws and regs change too frequently for us to keep up with. You can get their link by clicking the state link at http://icwdm.org/VendorsService/default.asp     

However, even if legal, translocation of wildlife is often not advisable. First,  they might return. Translocated animals travel farther than people think. Second, it is incredibly stressful on the animal (many die soon after translocation as they have to find food, shelter, water while avoiding predators and orienting themselves to a new environment), young may be abandoned and of course the problem with competition with the animals already at the new location and the transmission of disease. In highly urbanized states like Massachusetts, NJ and others on the Coasts, relocation often just moves the problem to someone else. So you can see translocation may feel humane but in fact often isn't.  For more details on relocation see http://www.icwdm.org/wildlife/euthanasia/relocation.asp
For information on euthanasia visit http://icwdm.org/wildlife/euthanasia/default.asp     Let us know if we can be of further assistance.



Disclaimer: As with any activity, remember that animal damage control comes with its own risks and problems which can include but are not limited to legalities, health threats, and personal liabilities. Be sure to follow all state laws governing wildlife and make sure you have a thorough understanding on how to resolve the animal damage complaint. My advice is only as good as your understanding of me and my understanding of your situation. If you have any questions be sure to write back.