Question
Hello, We live in Houston, TX, the weather was unusually cool for
Houston this year, we have had a LOT of rain, but no flooding in our area.
Although cool for Houston the temp has been in the low 90's most of the
summer.  We had a very tall Pine tree (20 years old) that died this
year.  We assumed that it was either old age or the climate changes this
year.  We hired a professional to cut the tree down, the stump stayed,
we were going to remove ourselves.  Last week, my husband started sawing
into the stump to try removing it, he didn't get very far and the
stump is still there.  However this week the Boston ferns that were
surrounding the tree (which were doing fine until now) started to die.. a huge
patch is dead, it appears they are dying from the roots up.  Although
the ferns circled the tree the only side of the circle of ferns that is
dying is the side where my husband was cutting into the stump, some of
the sawdust spread onto the ferns.  What are we doing  wrong?  Could
there be a disease in that tree trunk that is now spreading to the
ferns?  We didn't think there would be a problem because they are two
different "species".  Could there be something else killing the vegetation?
 The Ruella flowers that circle the ferns are still fine, and the grass
in the yard is also still fine.  We have two other trees in the yard
that don't seem to be affected by whatever killed the Pine tree.  Please
help :)


Answer
You did not say what was sprayed on the stump so I assume that it was a herbicide of some kind. The stump absorbed the herbicide and the wood chips and sawdust which contain the chemical have gotten into the root system of the ferns and this sounds like what is damaging the ferns. Ferns are sensitive to herbicide sprays. It would not be from the pine problem. About the only thing that can be done is water the ferns heavy and hope this dilutes the chemical enough to not kill the ferns.

Most homeowners enjoy the presence of beautiful trees in their yards; however, when these trees must be removed, unsightly stumps remain. Quick, easy and cheap methods to remove these stumps do not exist, but here are some helpful tips on what can be done.

Rotting

If there is no particular hurry in removing the stump or if you can camouflage it, rotting is the easiest, cheapest and safest method of removal. You may also consider leaving a tall stump to rot naturally and provide food and habitat for wildlife. Rotting wood is a favorite source of insect food for a variety of birds.

The organisms that rot or decay wood are called fungi. Fungi do not possess chlorophyll and consequently must derive food from other sources such as wood stumps. For fungi to live and grow, they must have the proper temperature, moisture, oxygen and food conditions. Food is supplied by the stump or wood, and oxygen is supplied by contact with the atmosphere. For optimum fungal growth, the temperature should range from 50 to 90 degrees F. The wood moisture content should be approximately 20 percent to slightly higher, but not water soaked. These optimum conditions do not exist for long periods, thus stump rotting actually occurs intermittently and decay of the entire stump is a long-term process.

To enhance decay conditions, the stump should be cut as near ground level as possible, covered with sod and kept moist. If possible, several large holes at least 1 inch in diameter should be bored vertically into the stump. These holes expose more wood and slightly hasten decay. During the first year following tree removal, the organisms that decay the wood tend to be nitrogen-limited. That means that the addition of fertilizer during the first year, especially a high nitrogen fertilizer, will hasten decay. Be careful not to add so much as to cause a fertilizer 揵urn?to surrounding plants.

The organisms that come along to decay the stump after the first year or so tend to be carbon-limited. That means that adding high nitrogen fertilizer no longer hastens the decay. The alternative is to add carbons (in the form of sugar) to the wood after the first year. Simply add some ordinary granulated sugar through those holes and the process will speed up considerably. Keep in mind that the heartwood of some species such as cedar, mulberry, bois d抋rc and locust are naturally durable and will take much longer to decay than softer woods.

As the stump rots, depressions or holes will develop. These can be unsightly and a hazard. You can re-fill these depressions with topsoil as they develop.



Grubbing

The quickest, but unfortunately the most difficult, stump removal method is grubbing - that is, pulling or digging out the whole stump. Stumps from trees smaller than 14 inches in diameter are often not too difficult to remove with this method, but stumps from trees larger or trees with large tap roots such as hickory and pine may be very difficult to remove.

The usual method of grubbing is to dig a trench or ditch around the stump from 1 to 2 feet wide and 1 to 2 feet deep. Cut the lateral roots with an axe, grub hoe or mattock. On tap-rooted trees, pry the stump to one side and sever the tap root. Roll, drag, winch or slide the stump from the hole. On large trees it is sometimes helpful to leave a stump 4 to 6 feet tall. This high stump can be used as a lever to break the stump free of the ground and roots. You can re-fill the hole created by the removal of the stump with topsoil.

Chemical Removers


There is no miracle chemical on the market that dissolves a stump overnight. Some of the more common chemicals offered for sale are potassium nitrate or saltpeter, sulphuric acid and nitric acid. Some chemicals have been ineffective.


Stump Grinders

Many arborists (tree care specialists) or tree removal services have a machine that mechanically grinds the stumps to below the soil line. Also, some equipment rental business rent stump grinders. The process takes only a few minutes but may be expensive. This process leaves a conspicuous hole you can fill with topsoil. Check with your county agent or professional arborist for available services and prices.