Question
QUESTION: I have a large maple tree in my yard.  It has an open knot hole approx. 3" in diameter.  There is a white Fungus that has coated and is growing inside the cavity (the inter cavity is approx. the size of a large canteloupe) and actively growing outwardly from the hole as well.  Is there anything that I can't use to effectively treat and kill this Fungus/Fungi without harming my maple tree?

Fred
TN.

ANSWER: Fred:
No. This white fungus probably represents the fruiting body of a fungus that may be causing an internal rot of the wood inside.  This is a terminal condition, however with good care, the tree may last for many years.  As the condition worsens, you will start to see thinning branches that eventually die out.  At that point as this condition worsens, removal of the tree may be the best option.

Steve

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QUESTION: Thank you for your helpful info.  One other question: When it rains, water pools inside the cavity.  Would it help preserve the tree if I shield or seal the knot hole to keep the cavity dry?

ANSWER: Fred:
More trouble than its worth.  At this point it will not make a difference.  The decay is already present and by keeping it dry, it will not slow things down so as to notice.

I have seen "salesmen going door to door selling a service to fill in those bigger cavities at the bases of trees with concrete- saying it will stop the decay wow! If any of these guys come to your home, tell them to keep going.


Steve

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QUESTION: Thanks again Steve.  I will indeed take your good advise.  I have other questions about my two white Dogwoods and hope that you will advise me about them as well:  Both Dogwoods are approx. 10" in trunk diameter.  They are slowly dying as some of their limbs die annually.  There are lichens on some of the dead/dying limbs and there are some old open wounds on some of the living limbs as well.  Please tell me when is the best time to prune off the dead limbs and how close to the closest living joint should I prune?  Is there anything that I should do with regards to the old open wounds on the still-living limbs; i.e. fill them in with something and/or treat them with something??  Also, what type of annual maintenance fertilize program do you recomend for them?  Lastly, is there anything specifically that I can do annually to control/kill any diseases that attack them?  Thank you in advance for your continued good advise and help that you will offer.
Fred
TN."

Answer
Fred:
Ideally, the best time to prune is during the dormant season, however on an established/healthy tree, one can do it most anytime.  Lichens occur most often on declining woody plants or older woody plants. They, themselves do not cause diseases, but are seen often as a result on diseased plants. These organisms (an algae and a fungus living together in a relationship) can be seen on rocks, fence posts and even on power lines. How close to prune? Close as you can that removes the dead portion. Nothing out there to treat open wounds.  The pruning paints often do more damage than good- they are not worth the time and money.  The best thing--is to avoid wounds in the first place.  String trimmers and lawnmowers are often a death sentence to a tree.  As far a fertilizer goes, usually if you fertilize your lawn 2 or 3 times per year, then that is usually enough, but the best thing is to get a soil test done. Every county in TN has an agricultural Extension office, usually in the county seat courthouse.  This is a great place to get your questions answered and that soil test I mentioned--usually free too through that office.. If you need help finding the office phone number in the phone book, let me know what county you live in and I can check a database here.  This is a good place to get someone to come out and check your trees. Many of these offices can make a "house call" to evaluate/diagnose tree and other plant problems.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Steve