Question
How can I start more camilias from the plant [tree] I have? It has such beautiful pink blooms and I would like to start some more plants. Thanks Robin

Answer
Growing a new Camellia from scratch -- by seed -- takes 4 to 20 years from planting until the day you see it bloom.  That's just too slow for most people.

But cuttings are notoriously difficult with Camellias.  During Winter months, it's virtually impossible due to the growth cycle of this plant. Consider, instead, the art of air layering, prescribed by The International Camellia Society:

www.camellias-acs.com/display.aspx?catid=3,9,112&pageid=74

Air layering is a method of triggering root cells in a stem, and getting them to grow.  Done correctly, you will end up with one or more plants that look close to the original mother plant.  Looks harder than it is.  And it will get you from here to there with much higher odds.

North Carolina State University extension service posts this cheat sheet on air layering:

www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-8701.html

NCSU pro's point out that air layering is so effective because 'water stress is minimized and carbohydrate and mineral nutrient levels are high.' If you try this now, in the dead of Winter, with nothing going on, you'd get nowhere. Layering in Spring? Ideal.

Here's what you do.

Pick a good, strong, healthy branch, ideally one that is just a year old.  and 1 to 2 feet from the tip, make 2 slices and peel the bark off.  Scrape off the green Cambium layer with a knife.  Sprinkle rooting powder on the scraped surface and wrap this part of the branch with a bunch of Sphagnum Moss.  Enclose in plastic wrap; cover with aluminum foil (shiny side out), and forget it's there.

For the next few months, the plant will be forming roots that will grow into the Sphagnum Moss.  If you try this in Spring, they are typically rooted in Fall or late Summer.  DO NOT try to 'peek' under the plastic to see how things are going; you'll damage nascent cells and slow down results.

When you can see the roots, it is time to cut the branch off, take off the plastic wrap, and plant in a small container.  Most will bloom the following year.

Alternately, if you want to try your hand at taking cuttings, here's step by step instructions from the Southern California Camellia Society, 'Camellia Propagation: Root Cuttings':

www.socalcamellias.org/subpage3.html

'Late July through September, when new growth is 80% or more hardened off, is probably the best time to start rooting cuttings,' they write.  The group has come up with its own rooting powder formula: 'We mix our own root stimulating solution. We use a solution approximating .5% IBA mixed with .25% NAA in de-ionized water. We buy the IBA and NAA in powder form from Research Organics Corp. in Cleveland, OH. Next, we add Celluwet, a water-thickening additive. Celluwet is a product of Griffin Laboratories, Valdosta, GA. We use it to thicken the IBA-NAA solution so that it will adhere to the stem of the cutting and not be dissipated after the cutting is placed in the rooting medium. We mix to a viscosity approximating that of 5W to 10W motor oil.'

Camellias are stunningly beautiful.  But they are not for beginners.  If you're skilled enough to grow one, why not grow dozens?

Thanks for writing.

THE LONG ISLAND GARDENER