Question
3 QUESTIONS:  WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO MAKE CUTTINGS OUT OF ANNUALS AND PACKIES?  I WAS THINKING OF PUTTING IN ROOTTONE AND THEN WET SAND..  IS THIS BEST WAY?

ONE OF MY HANGING BASKETS OF PETUNIAS SUDDENLY GOT BURNT LOOKING LEAVES (LIGHT SHADE IN MIDDLE OF PURPLE) AND LOOKS DROOPY.  I THOUGHT IT DRIED OUT, BUT IT WAS MOIST INSIDE THE SOIL.  I THOUGHT PETUNIAS LIKE FULL SON?   

I TEST MY PLANTS FOR 'MOISTURE' WITH ONE OF  THOSE STICK METERS...   AT WHAT DEPTH SHOULD I TEST?  THE TOP 2-4 INCHES MAY BE DRY WHILE THE MIDDLE OR BOTTOM MAY BE MOIST OR WET.  IS IT OK FOR TOP, OR MIDDLE TO BE DRY, BUT BOTTOM WET?

THANK YOU!


Answer
1. Most annuals propagate easily via stem cuttings. You don't even need roottone although it does not hurt. I don't like to use sand, unless you get rough builders sand, but evenso, you can buy 1 cubic feet bags of SEED STARTING MIXTURES at any garden center which are specially formulated for this purpose. The bags typically are mixes of perlite, vermiculite and peatmoss sphagnum. You can also make these yourself by mixing 50% perlite with 50% peatmoss sphagnum (usually available in the indoors plant section of larger garden centers and home depot, lowes, etc).
Sand tend to compact and exclude air which is required to do cuttings.

Make 3-6" long cuttings and cut off any flower buds/flowers. Remove lower sets of leaves from the stem so you have a stem with 1-2 sets of leaves on the top half of the cutting and below 1-2 sets of buds (knobs where leaves used to be). Pre-moisten the growing media and place in a cup half full. The cup MUST have drainage holes. Stick a pencil into the media to make a hole. Place cutting into this hole and firm around the stem lightly with your fingers. Cover the cut with clear plastic (microwavable plastic wrap,etc is fine) but make sure the plastic does not touch the cutting. If you use a tall cup only half full (so the top of the cutting does not protrude above the edge of the cup) or you can bend a metal wire hanger (from drycleaners .. the type you get with shirts, etc) so that it makes a small loop and hold the plastic above the cutting. Water well and let drain completely.

Place cutting in a warm place out of direct sun (dappled shade, or indirect light, only) for 7-10 days. I like to use the top of the fridge as the kitchen has bright light and the top of the fridge is nice and warm.

Check every 3-5 days and if soil starting to dry on top, water again. Do not overwater. Only if it shows sign of significant drying. Normally I water MAX once before they root. You can try to "tuck" on one cutting after a week. If it stays it has rooted. If it comes out.. sorry no luck.. try again. Most annuals root in 5-7 days.

2.
I suspect a number of problems. If the soil is still damp, it could actually be overwatering. Too much water in combination with poorly draining soil can lead to root rot problems. Do not continue to water if the soil is damp. Normally baskets have problems with too fast drying, but if you do not have drainage holes (plastic basket with saucer so water stay in) or a porous material (e.g. coconut coir etc where water can drain from automatically) it is actually easy to overwater a basket.

It can also be insects which have attacked the petunas. If you notice many insects on the plants, try to spray with an all purpose insecticide which are labled for annual plants.

Finally, it can be excessive dry/wet cycles. If a basket of petunias are allowed to dry excessively it does not help to water. They will most often be set back temporarily and will have to grow new foliage/flowers which can take 3-5 weeks. It is best to water before the plants "wilth" (droop). If the problem has been excessive wet/dry cycles, the only remedy is to cut back plants by half and institute a regular watering program. Water regularily but ensure good drainage. Never allow plants to reach stage of wilting.

3. as above, I recommend watering when soil is dry 1-1.5" below soil surface. Most roots appear in the layer 2-6" below soil level. If you wait until the soil is dry to a dept of 4-6" you have most likely done damage to the plants. I would adjust meters so they meassure moisture 2" below soil level. When they move from wet to slightly dry, water. Use a soluble fertilizer when you water; especially in baskets.



E.G.
- avoid excessive dry/wet cycles. watering just as the soil starts to dry is recommended. avoid getting to state where plants wilth.
- good drainage is almost always needed. If you use saucers on baskets, empty them 10 minutes after watering. If you use potting soil and the soil stays too wet for prolonged period of times (and plants languish) then try to use a 50% perlite/50% potting soil in your baskets or buy specially formualed "container" mixes.
- keeps plants healthy by watering regularily (more in sunny hot weather, less in cold overcast weather) and by using a diluted liquid fertilizer

Petunias prefer full sun except in the southern half of USA where the very hot climates would disagree with them. I know that many gardeners in Florida and Texas grow them as "cool season annuals" in the winter season. I live in NJ and we grow them as summer annuals through the hottest part of the summer in full sun and they love it. It depends a bit where you live. Giving petunias 1/2 day shade from hot afternoon suns may be needed in gardening zones 9 and 10.

Kenneth