Question

diseased section   QUESTION: I've attached a picture of my column-type cactus. It has obviously outgrown it's container and the bottom has been diseased for a long time. Can the plant be saved? I've read the diseased section can be cut off, then let the healthy part of plant dry out a couple days then put in cactus-friendly soil. Will this work for me? I live in Wyoming, it's quite dry here and cold. I have a full-body picture of the plant if needed.

ANSWER: Dear Mary,

It doesn't look like the typical disease I anticipated. Are the tan sections mushy and/0r hollow feeling? It looks like corking, some etiolation and then normal growth.  How tall is the plant and how tall is the pot?  When was it last repotted and in what?  Did it go through a period of drought?  Could you send me a picture of the entire plant with the pot wit the height of each as well as a closeup of the base?  I think  you can only send one picture at a time.

Do you ever put the plant outside?  I think it can be salvaged.

Maureen

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cactus   QUESTION: The diseased area is not mushy. It does seem hollow. It's been there for years and the top of the plant has been thriving. It's never been outside. I would guess it did go through a drought before I took it over. It might've been last transplanted 15 years ago.
The pot is 10" wide, 6" tall. The plant is 15-20" tall.

ANSWER: Wow!  I'm surprised your Pilosocereus Azureus hasn't toppled over already.  There are a couple of things going on.  The brown at the base doesn't look like disease to me.  As a cactus matures,, the lower parts or base of the plant turns from smooth-green skin to a tough, brown, bark-like appearance. This is called corking and I'd expect it in an at least 15 year old plant. Corking starts from the base of the cactus and works up the plant. If a cactus is turning brown from the top down, or in spots on the side or in the middle, then it is not corking, but  some other problem.

The problem with your plant is a bit farther up where the plant really narrows, is tan, and appears somewhat stretched.  This is called etiolation and is caused by lack of sunlight.  As the plant tries to reach toward the sun it literally stretches and develops weaker, discolored growth.  That is permanent and I think that's where your plant will snap.  it's a testament to these plants that it continued to grow and must have gotten some direct sun.

So,I agree, it's best to start a fresh plant, not only because its's beautiful, but also because it's probably going to snap. With a sharp, sterilized knife (use rubbing alcohol),cut off no less than 6 in. from the top of the plant. If you need to make more than one cut sterilize in between. I brush the cut end with fungicide and if you don't have that, with rooting powder.  The latter won't cause it to root, but does contain some fungicide.  Then I would put it aside in  a place that's cool, in indirect sunlight and let it callous for at least a week. The cut end should feel dry and somewhat like cork.

There are a lot of opinions on how to root a cactus and if you don't like what I do just look up cactus soil recipes on the net.  I use plain, sifted, builders sand that you can get at some place like Home Depot or Lowes. Don't use really fine sand like play box sand.  It suffocates the roots. Moisten the sand and put in the cutting 2-3 inches deep in a pot not much bigger than the width of the cutting. (I've been trying clear plastic containers because I can see when the sand is completely moistened and I can also see new roots). In about a week, when the sand is dry, water thoroughly but make sure excess water drains completely.  Depending on the cactus and conditions, a cactus can take anywhere from a few weeks to a year to root.  The best way to tell is that you will see new growth at the top. Keep it in bright, indirect sunlight till it roots. a week.

If you have enough of the old plant left you can also cut that and start it.  You just need to know which is the top and which is the bottom.  In that case, I cut it on an angle so I know that goes in the soil.  In the case of your plant it's not going to look like the  original, but will be interesting to see what develops.

Anyway, once the plant has rooted, transplant it to a pot that contains good cactus soil, wait a week, water, and then wait again till the soil is dry and water, etc.  For the first few weeks you can mist the plant between waterings. Gradually move it into a south facing window and turn it regularly.

For columnar cacti, the rule of thumb is that the pot is 1/3rd the height of the plant so the pot tends to be a tad wider than you'd normally use.  I wouldn't worry about that till the plant has grown some.

A cactus should be repotted every 1-2 years in fresh soil. 15 years - WAY too long.

You can also repot what's left of the original and see what develops. Your plant usually doesn't branch but you may get side shoots that you can also plant.

Good luck.  This is a good time of year to start a cutting.

What's it's story?  How did you come to have it?

Maureen





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QUESTION: My husband of 10 years had it when we got together. It was his one plant that he put in the triangular pot his sister made years before. It was very neglected and rarely watered. He still claimed to continue it's care once we lived together, but then I started watering and fertilizing it and it grew a foot in height. I win. Thanks for all your help, I hope I succeed and it grows another foot or 2!

Answer
Dear Mary,

Thanks for the story if case you didn't get my e-mail.  It doesn't seem that men's definition of care is somewhat different from  mine.

worse comes to worse, Absolutely Cactus has some lovely Philosopher Azureus as does Cactus Limon.  I don't have any affiliation with them but I know they're good.  Absolutely has gorgeous pictures as well.

Good luck, and courage!

Maureen