Question
QUESTION: Hi guys,
I have a reoccurring problem with some of my plants.
More specifically :Sarracenia "Dana's Delight",
Sarracenia leucophylla ( and maby one more Sarra),
Drosera filiformis var. tracyi,
And Maybe a flytrap or two.

Here is my question.

I noticed after I divide them, most of them seem to get some kind of burn. And sometimes the crowns rot.
They are not out of dormancy yet.
I divided them 2 weeks ago.
Normally they start to grow right around now but it has been unusually cold.

I was thinking that I could be dividing them to soon.
It almost reminds me of freeze damage or something.
They are fine if I don't divide them though.

I live in tinley park IL.
Zone 5

I took all of my plants out of winter storage
3 weeks ago.
Here are te other awncers to your questions,

Where do you have the plants?  (Out doors, the only way to do it =))

Also, how cold would they have gotten after you put them out?
(It did get in the low 20's at times,But I did cover them with a floating row cover)

what is the soil media you're using?
( I am using 50/50 peat moss and perlite)

what is the brand of ingredients?
(crum, and premire)

What is your water source?
RO water.

Thanks,Jake

ANSWER: Hi Jake,

Thank-you for the extra information.  I would say your recent divisions are getting too cold.  I've found here in our nursery that when we start division in March that is rare for us to get any colder than about 28F, and then only for very brief periods.  Plants do loose some of their cold tolerance when they undergo disturbance.  With your temperatures dropping in the low 20's that would damage some plants.  Of the ones you mentioned, D. tracyi is not very cold hardy under normal circumstances, and I find that Venus flytraps are often not has hardy if they get transplanted mid-winter.  S. leucophylla and Daina's Delight are from the more Southerly part of the Sarracenia range, so they do tend to be less hardy.  I've found that S. leucophylla "Tarnok" is pretty hardy, while S. leucophylla "Titan" is not.  I've definitely had plants die that were transplanted in December, while those left undisturbed under the same weather conditions were fine.

The bottom line is that it would be of benefit to wait on your division.  Your row covers will help, but only with a light frost.  Use gardening information for your area to help determine when it looks like your weather will moderate.

Good Growing!

Jeff Dallas
Sarracenia Northwest
http://www.cobraplant.com

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------


purp  

divisions   QUESTION: I have a S.purp that Has gotten this burn as well bit I have not divided it or repotted it either.(it did this last year too,I have hade this plant for 3-4 years)
What do you this is causing this? Like you said before?(Too cold)

And the divisions are getting worse too, do you think they will make little baby's from the roots if they rot?

Thank you !

Answer
Yes, judging from your photos, it's a combination of being too cold and not being acclimated to sunlight.  This happens to our plants too.  After we cut off all the leaves, sometimes the crowns will burn if we have a late season frost or if we have an unusually sunny day.  This happens because the older leaves shelter the crown from frost and sunlight.  Your purp has the classic signs of both frost and sun damage.  It's simply not well acclimated to either one right now.  In time, the plant will acclimate to sunlight and the risk of frost will pass.  

In the meantime, monitor your plants and wait for new growth.  That's the most you can do.  If you have another round of spring frost, you can bring your plants in the garage for shelter.  Just remember to bring them back out when the frost has passed.  Rot is not at all a factor, based on your information and photos.  

Good growing!
Jacob Farin