Question
Last year (2007) I purchased one Venus flytrap, one white top pitcher, two of the Daina delights, and a Judith Hindle. I left them outside during the winter and they really looked like they were doing great. When it got closer to spring our days in Augusta would get as high as the lower 70's but we would have nights at times in the low 20's. When the weather finally showed signs of no more of the 20 degree weather my white top pitcher was the only survivor. All of the plants had live growth at the bottom of the plant but in the end the white top put out leaves and pitchers and was the only survivor. This spring after all of these plants died I purched more pitcher plants and they have done fantastic through the summer. Now I'm getting worried about what will happen to these plants just before the spring. I feel like the very warm days we have in late winter causes the plants to start coming out of dormancy, and then they get hit with temps in the low 20's or high teens. How can I protect my plants this winter from the effects of very warm periods and extreme cold the very next day? I don't want to loose my plants again this coming spring.

Thank you
Steve Hallman

Answer
Hi Steve,

The weather pattern you've described is a problem for a lot of gardeners and farmers.  Warm days and freezing nights can potentially kill off flower buds and new growth.  Even for us, we've lost a lot of Sarracenia flower buds with a late spring frost.  

If you have a small collection of plants, you could move your plants indoors to a sunny south windowsill until the risk of frost passes.  Move your plants only when the daytime temperature warms up and you start seeing new growth on your plants.  You may need to spray your plants with a sulfur-based fungicide to prevent fungal infections.  This would also be a good time to repot your plant in larger pots if necessary.

Another option is to move your plants into a cold frame or unheated greenhouse.  Avoid moving your plants in the garage.  You still need to provide your plants with as much sunlight as possible as they emerge from dormancy.  The cold frame will temper the plants from rapid temperature swings while providing lots of sunlight.

Another option still is to use the plastic water cones that some vegetable gardeners use.  It's a plastic cone that you fill with water.  The middle portion is hollow, so your plants will be surrounded by a wall of water.  The water will retain some heat during the night, so it'll prevent your plants from freezing completely.  You can keep the cone in place until the risk of frost passes.  Check your local garden center for this product.

As a rule, mature rhizomes tend to tolerate this type of weather pattern than young rhizomes, and plants in large pots have a higher survival rate than plants in small pots.  If your plants are relatively young and still in 3-inch pots, repot them now into larger pots, such as 5-inch or larger.  If you repot them now, avoid disturbing the roots too much.  Just lift the plants out of the pots with the soil intact and place it in a larger pot.  File the the extra space with additional soil.  The larger pot will help insulate the rhizome from rapid temperature swings in spring.

Regardless of the methods you use, also pay attention to fungal infections.  Depending on your environment, this may be a common problem, so you should treat accordingly.  Use a sulfur-based fungicide or Neem oil.  Safer?makes excellent prepared solutions of both compounds.  Follow the directions on the bottle.

Good growing!
Jacob Farin