Question
QUESTION: I just bought two Persian Shields, and when i bought them I just assumed that "all-purpose" potting soil would work, but now that I've read up on them, I'm kind of concerned that maybe I should have gotten a more specialized soil, such as the one that I use for my cacti. Do you think that they will they grow alright in a large pot with all-purpose soil?

ANSWER: Miranda,

This is a difficult plant to raise because it needs very high humidity. Strobilanthes Dyerianus, commonly-referred to as Persian Shield, is a species in the genus Strobilanthes, which boasts about 250 flowering plants that belong to the plant family Acanthaceae (or Acanthus). The Strobilanthes members are mostly native to tropical Asia, although a few can be found in temperate regions of the continent. Even though there are over 200 types of Strobilanthes, there is only one (as far as I can gather) that is grown indoors, and that抯 the S. Dyerianus.

This charming plant with its shiny, lance-shaped, marbled, dark green and metallic purple leaves commands attention and is best displayed on its own. Long-lasting, pale blue, funnel-shaped flowers are produced under the most ideal conditions, but they are not very showy; they can be pinched off. Although this is an exceptional choice for indoors with its dazzling foliage, it requires specific care to look its best. If its needs are not provided accordingly, the Persian Shield can prove to be quite difficult as a houseplant.

Adequate humidity is one of the most important requirements in keeping a Strobilanthes Dyerianus healthy. High humidity is absolutely essential and not something that can be compromised. If the air is too dry, the tips and margins of the plant抯 leaves will brown; chronic dry air can cause entire leaves to dry to a crisp, and also send out an invitation to spider mites to move in. If your home does not offer enough humidity, remedy the situation by adding a humidifier nearby, by placing the plant on a pebble tray filled with water, by double-potting and filling the spaces in between the containers with moist peat, by grouping plants together to form a microclimate with higher humidity, by growing the plant in a room naturally higher in humidity (bathroom) or by growing it in a greenhouse (if you are fortunate enough to have one!).

Use an airy, quick-draining soil and keep it evenly moist during the warm months. It would be better if you took you "all-purpose" potting soil and added 1 part of perlite to 2 parts of soil. This will lighten the soil and make it more airy. Do not pot it into a pot with a diameter more than 2 inches larger than the pot it came in or you will have root rot because it woun't be able to use up the water and dry out between waterings.  Allow it to dry slightly between each watering session, and then water thoroughly. Never leave it sit with a drain tray full of water. During the cooler months, water carefully to avoid root rot; allow the soil to dry out a little more. Never let the soil dry out completely; the plant does not handle drought very well. Switch to hydroculture for an alternative growing style. Conversion is fairly quick with very few signs of stress. You can transplant the entire specimen, or you can take cuttings, root them in water and then plant them in clay pebbles when water roots form. If you decide to transfer from soil to pellets from the get go, provide the Persian Shield with high levels of humidity to help it get through the transition effortlessly.

Choose a location that offers bright, indirect light; protect the plant from the direct rays of the summer sun but it does need a very bright location. Strobilanthes Dyerianus does not mind a little early morning eastern or some late afternoon western sunshine, so don抰 be afraid to try out those locations. In the event that your plant complains that there is too much light, just relocate it to a shadier spot. Average household temperatures are fine. The plant prefers to be kept warm; always protect it from cold drafts. Do not expose Strobilanthes Dyerianus to temperatures below 13?Celsius (55?F).

A Persian Shield only looks best in its juvenile stage. As it ages, the plant declines and the colours fade, making it less attractive and not very desirable. This does not mean that it should be treated as a temporary room accent and then disposed of. This is a fast-growing specimen that roots easily; new stock can be raised from cuttings, allowing you to enjoy its majestic presence in your home indefinitely. Older specimens should be pruned often to promote a more compact appearance and avoid lankiness. Regular pruning also maintains a desired shape and size. Good luck.

Darlene



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: My plant is in a large planter which sits in front of a window with the blind partially closed after the sun gets to its highest point in the day. I bought a mister under advice from another site, so as to keep the plant in a humid environment, which I use 4/7 days. Am I providing adequate care for my plant, and, also, under ideal indoor conditions, how long can I expect my original plant to survive?

ANSWER: Miranda,

You should mist it at least 3 timees a day, in the morning, if you work as soon as you get home and then before you go to bed.

It should be in a pot that has a diameter no more than 2 inches larger than the pot you got it in. If it is in too large a pot you will likely overwater it and it will suffer from root rot.

After a couple of years it will decline but it is easy to start a new plant with cuttings from the old plant. They root easily. Good luck .

Darlene

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I took a few cuttings from my plants and put them in a jar of water, and they seem to be doing pretty good(it's been a few days and they still look very healthy) but I was wondering how to transfer those cuttings from the water to the soil? Once they get big enough, would I just plant them directly into the soil, or is there something else that I'm supposed to do to get them ready for normal care?

Answer
Miranda,

When you take cuttings and grow them in water they grow very crisp succulent roots. When you plant them in soil the break easily so you just need to be very careful not to break them off. Just very gingerly pack the new soil around them. Then set the plant next to the parent plant and give it the same care. There will be a touchy period while the roots are converting from the succulent water roots to wiry soil roots. Be very careful to keep the plant soil lightly moist but do not leave it sitting in a tray full of water. That will rot those roots quickly. Do not water it until the surface of the soil is dry, the soil lower in the pot will still be moist but not wet. Wet soil rots roots.

I prefer to start cuttings in soil. You start by getting a fresh pot of soil ready. Mix standard potting soil with extra perlite at a ratio of 2 parts soil to 1 part perlite. That will give you an airy well draining soil the will not stay too wet and rot the roots. Dip you cuttings in a bottle of rooting hormone, make a hole in the soil with a pencil and insert the cutting with the rooting hormone on it then press the soil around the cutting. Insert several cuttings in the same pot and you will have a better chance of some rooting, you will also have a full lovely pot when the cuttings root. When cuttings root in soil they have wiry roots immediately and do not have to go through that touchy conversion period of switching from the succulent water roots to the wiry soil roots. If your mother plant is large enough to take a few more cuttings and aqlso try this method I highly reccommend it.  

I appreciate all the challenging questions. They improve my own abilities as I research and answer them. Good luck!

Darlene