Question
I got a beautiful phal at Fresh Market not knowing much about orchids at all, but did research on what to do after the flowers fell. I got a few answers on the internet like "Using a sharp sterile tool, cut the spike above the 2nd or 3rd node for re bloom." I also heard "cut it all the way to the bottom and wait for another spike to grow." and "no one in nature cuts them so leave it alone!" Would you please set the record straight? :)
So... I sterilized a sharp knife with bleach and took the first option. I cut it an inch above the 2nd node from the bottom. It started to turn brown all the way down so I cut the spike at the base. About a week or two later, the two bottom leaves turned yellow and fell. I pulled the plant out of the pot to inspect the roots, and noticed that right at the beginning of the roots below the crown they were turning black. Most of the roots were a yellow-white-milkish color, and few were green all the way down. I cut back the dead roots and soaked the bare plant in low concentrate (1T to 1 gal.) consan triple action 20 (former physan 20). I got fresh sphagnum moss and soaked it in that too, drained it, and re potted the plant. I put the plant in a grocery bag loosely tied at the top, in the bathroom, on top of a heating pad on "low". I noticed 2 new little nubs, or new growth, coming out by the roots (although I am not too hopeful, for fear none of the roots will survive. Im also worried that the rot will kill the new developments.) I am guessing that they are new roots because I doubt it'd be new spikes or keiki. So I guess when it's all said and done, I need to see if I am on the right track here. There are still two big roots that are green but are black at the base and falling off because I didn't cut all the rot off. I was nervous to cut them off at first because it would leave the plant with only 2 healthy roots. Should I start cutting off all black parts even if on flesh? Should the fungal bath I gave to it get rid of all the rot from now on or can it keep spreading? Any advice you have now or for future would help.
--------Second Problem, different orchid--------

Got this baldwin's kaleidoscope gold treasure at a local grocer, and liked this one because there were 2 nice spikes on it and one of them hadn't begun to flower yet although it had a few tiny buds. so I figured it would last a while! I brought it home with me 3 days ago, and noticed that one of the tiny folded blossoms turned yellow and dried up a little, dried up and never developed.  Air movement and water and temp good, it is in front of a window with no bright light, but just enough. It also has dark purple on the crown and on spikes. weird. Is it possible that one branch would drop all of its flowers and the smaller branch would just be beginning to flower? Could they be at different phases on one plant? After flowers all fall would it be ok to apply keiki paste on a lower node? Or should the plant be a little older? Sorry for all the questions. you can find so much information on the internet but the problem is there are so many species that its hard to get the right answer sometimes. I appreciate your time and what you have to say to a newbie that needs good advice, I know you're busy!
Thanks,
Newbie aka Brittany

Answer
Thanks for your questions Brittany. First, some introductory remarks which have some bearing on your concerns.  Phalaenopsis that you find at market are hybrids (ie combinations of species with species, species with hybrids, or hybrids with other hybrids). Ultimately, if you can trace each hybrid's family tree,  species are at the root of all hybrids.  Species, of course, are phalaenopsis originating in the jungle. Species have many different characteristics: they differ in color, growth and flowering habit, etc.. One habit of species that gets incorporated into hybrids is the behavior of the flower spike after flowering. Some hybrids are characterized by old flower spike die back.  Their old flower spikes naturally turn brown and die back after flowering. This progresses slowly from the tip of the flower spike down to its base.  By removing the uppermost part of the spike that has turned brown will not alter the genetically determined instructions and the old flower spike will continue to die back. Keiki's cannot be generated with node paste as that will not interrupt the genetic instructions which cause flower spike die back.  On these plants, the only way new growth and flowering is possible is from the base of the plant. On those plants where the old flower spike remains green, keikis and/or flowering branches can be generated at a node on the spike-- preferably after flowering.  This can occur at any node (ie joint# but I prefer to cut the old flower spike just above the second or third node with a sterile cutting instrument. Whether you obtain keikis or a branch in the flower spike depends upon light level with many of these hybrids.  Some hybrids have a genetic tendency to produce keikis while others may need lower light levels to produce keikis or you may develop flowering branches instead.

Before going much further, I would like to compliment you on your reading and many of the practices you have instituted.

Plants from stores usually have roots problem and need to be repotted as soon as they go out of flower #if not before#. Orchid roots have a central conducting root hair and and outer fleshy covering.  This outer covering accounts for the bulk of the root. When this outer covering breaks down, it becomes mushy or stringy will no longer serve its function and must be removed. Healthy roots are firm and often take on a greenish color when wet (they contain chlorophyll).

Potting mixes and pots are crucial when repotting.  I like to avoid moss because it tends to either stay too wet or dries out too quickly.  Also, over time, it can compact, staying wet longer and restricting air flow. Potting mixes should be "open"-- that permits air and water to flow freely through the mix. You can purchase hobby bags or fir bark based orchid potting mix.  The fine particles should be strained out before use and then the potting mix should be soaked for at least an hour prior to use.  Like the potting mix, pots should have lots of drainage holes to allow air and water to flow freely.  Do not allow you pots to stand in water and avoid the "ice cube" method of watering.

If these comments raise additional questions, feel free to ask followups.